Lemme check.. Um...It's L 21

yah this is also a point! If it is just some flat armor part then easy loh! U may even make one out using pla plate if is those joint one! It is near impossible to recast one! Since the material u used would not serve the purpose of ABS joint (either too rough or too weak to hold the darn thing)

Itu lah pasal i headache... The part got bent, curvy wan.

the pics on dalong's scanned manuals r a bit small, so I couldnt make out the part numbering well, but is it one of the pieces at the bottom left at here? http://dalong.net/review/mg/m75/p/m75_r_l.jpg

if it is, then it don't look too bad actually. doing it using epoxy should be pretty easy enough. the only difficult part is that u're gonna need somebody to pinjam u that missing part (since the one that u've got left is for the opposite side)

Ek, the link says Forbidden. O_o
Wait, i'll take a pic using my webcam (It's the only method of taking picture i have T_T)

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Added on March 22, 2008, 10:24 pmTook the pic from Dalong:


Ya it's the bottom left punya. But it's like curvy wan, can be done?
As to the part, got no problem i guess. The shop i go to got 4 WZC on display. So... gotta beg them to lend me one lo... Haha. Dunno they'll let or not, cos all 4 also AB ady wan.

This post has been edited by MyKy44: Mar 22 2008, 10:24 PM

bad luck missing a piece. 1 more solution that is i try order that entire whole L runner part for u. if u want let me know ^.^ but is should cost 20% to 30% of the orignal cost MG.

20-30%.... I'll try my luck to beg those guys first.... Thanks chris, another addition to my solution. The list:
1. Ignore it and hope the part will pop out itself
2. Recast, which gonna involve some begging
3. Buy fake one ><
4. Order runner from Chris
5. Super glue the wing!

Most prolly i'll resort to method 1 and 2 la. Haha

Checkit out

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=38

Read tht in Zero-G ady. BTW thanks ya.

guys, suddenly i bought this Magic 101 solution for those car wash thingy , i bought it coz i think i remember there's a connection to the cleaning part of gunpla parts, which part was it? , or is it used to "clean" paint?

guys..
if using retarder, normally how long the paint can dry?
i'm using thinner, and the paint dry too fast.. about less than a minute..
so need to rush when painting..

any other solution?

just some delay does not mean it will dried up very long! If u did not add any retarded the paint will dry on the instance u applied it (more or less than 5 sec) with retarded it last longer (around 30sec - 1 minute to dried up)!

My personal experience with this stuff aint really good! (It broke my ABS joint after adding too much Retarded Mild) So usually i dun add a lot this stuff (it also make ur paint look lighter like u added a lot of thinner).

i guess i just need supersonic move then..
if not that practical.. better spending the money for other stuff..

Just some stupid question, I started up yesterday and end up almost spoil my kits...

For laquer, how many ratio from colour : thinner

I either had the colour too "pekat" or too "cair"

And another mistake I've done. I use laquer paint for brushing.... Stupid me... but with some fix-up... the result turn out quit ok ok for me lar...

Ideally, the paint should dry within moments of hitting the plastic when you airbrush it. Otherwise, you'll end up with the problem of having the paint run as air blows over it again.

The application of the retarder to slow down the drying is mainly to prevent the paint from drying before hitting the plastic (as in, drying the moment it shoots out of the AB). This will cause the cobweb effect on the plastic.

Its best to avoid rushing too much as well. As like everything related to painting, you'll just have to get used to the drying time (which is just one aspect) of the paints. Furthermore, this differs between different brands of paints as well.

The moment you get used to the paint, you'll have a better idea on how to time yourself while working.

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Added on March 25, 2008, 6:07 pmStart off with a 1:1 ratio I guess. Then experiment around from there. There isnt really one single magic number, as even different colors from the same brand may have differing thickness. Then also the older bottles of paint that's slightly dried up will also require more thinner.

In short, after mixing, unless you're already used to it, never ever paint directly onto your model first, but run the brush over some pieces of scrap plastic to see the effects first. Only when you get it to what you can handle, then paint.

This post has been edited by fyire: Mar 25 2008, 06:07 PM

Yeah, i do as what fyire suggests as well. Trial and Error method. Just keep trying till u see something u like ,that apply to your kit.

wanto ask... this (MG strike freedom gundam) 'sticker' need to use water?

this 1 normal sticker just take it out and stick like normal sticker

the water decal background paper is blue 1

this one just take out and stick like chriswoo said...
if the background is white then it's dry decal...
MGs SELDOM come with water decals(blue background), usually nid to buy them.

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Mar 26 2008, 01:48 AM

aiyo. ...where to buy?
last last time MG come with poster, now NO,
water decal also NO.