Did you actually check the units sold during reopt?

It's not "sell all units of all the ETFs equally", it takes into consideration weight of the sectors. Unlike user changing SRI, where the weights change and thus affects buy order, SA doesn't always change the weight of certain sectors during reopt.

I don't know about others, but when SA put in the sell order, almost all the units sold were units that were solidly profiting previously in my account and had been in the green for some time. They simply realised the profits and reinvested in other ETFs units.

KWEB had zero sold order, so no realised losses at all. They've also maintained the target weight of KWEB across all portfolios, so they essentially left it alone.

This is a snapshot for my 36% SRI sell order during the reopt, no KWEB realised losses.

I think most people don't actually realise what PIDM is for.

PIDM is to protect ones savings and/or insurance products in the event that the member institution shuts down due to bankruptcy.

What it does:
✅ Protect your savings deposit accounts in the event of a bank bankruptcy, up to RM250k per customer account (which means if you have multiple deposit ccounts in the same bank, each account is eligible for claims)
✅ Only applicable to entities that are members of PIDM
✅ Only applicable to cash deposits like savings/current accounts and fixed deposits (please refer to your bank product brochure on whether there is PIDM coverage)

What it DOES NOT DO:
❗Does not protect against capital losses in investments
❗Does not protect investment products like Unit Trust, stocks, shares, and/or gold related investment products
❗ Does not protect products of institutions/companies that are not members of PIDM
❗ Does not protect deposits that are not payable in Malaysia (eg: a Malaysian who opens a fixed deposit in Singapore bank while in Singapore cannot enjoy PIDM coverage)

====

For those that fear that SA might go bankrupt, what happens is that your investments in SA are protected by a trustee (Pacific Trustees) and considered separate from SA's capital (meaning SA cannot claim your investments to cover their company losses), and if SA bankrupt the trustee company will liquidate the investments and return the money to you at the amount gained when they sell off the investment.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Aug 19 2021, 11:09 AM

Started from ATH period in Feb-March 2021 time, you just bad timing to enter 😂 your portfolio not even one year old, too early to comment on profitability

just keep DCA and HODL, if you truly want to exit at least do it when breakeven/slight profit, don't realise your losses.

Wrong

backspace66 is correct, the early 2010s was a great time for MYR regards to USD, at one point it actually reached 2.9x MYR to 1 USD (I used to do business involving a lot of USD so I remember this)

Exchange rate went to crap when the 1MDB scandal was exposed by WSJ



This post has been edited by DragonReine: Sep 30 2021, 11:32 AM

If want to benefit Malaysia directly need to choose another vehicle for investment, like mutual funds that have high domestic allocation in assets 😂 StashAway is SG based and from the beginning they've always invest in primarily foreign equities/bonds ETFs, they're not designed to or aiming to boost Malaysia's economy

my worthless dua sen la:

If you chose a risk index that specifically states "there's a 1% chance in any given year that this portfolio may drop more than xx%" with xx being the risk index number, why do you even start sweating when the number is not even close to that range?

have you overestimated your risk appetite?

did you invest in the portfolio(s) with the understanding of its underlying assets and faith in the growth of those assets, or saja² ikut the idea that high risk = high return?

if you believe that the portfolio is a mistake, then by all means withdraw and take the realised losses as payment for learning what kind of investment is preferable for you

otherwise better to wait at least until break even before you choose to cut ties (if you really don't want to invest further)

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 1 2021, 05:11 PM

No, they'll deduct any withholding tax before they return any reimbursement they can get for you.

IMO StashAway Simple is really only useful for two reasons:

1) extra layer of "forced" financial discipline (the slow withdrawal time means you're less likely to impulsively withdraw)

2) if you're going to DCA regularly into SA + you can't qualify for high yield savings account + you also need reason #1, so you deposit your short term savings in SA Simple and then set up a recurring transfer from Simple to SA investment portfolio

but as several have mentioned, the interest rate is not that much better to begin with, and the slow transfer times makes it not optimal, and that extra few 0.0x% p.a. gain is not much in actual money unless you're high net worth (and if you're high net worth, pretty sure it's super easy to qualify for high yield savings account anyway)

don't be penny wise pound foolish

Same, I already have OCBC 360 which has similar rates (2.15%) so there's no reason to deal with the hassle of Versa/Simple/Go+ 😂

yep

"Pay" condition 0.70% (3 bill/payment transactions within the month): jompay to StashAway for my monthly DCA, jompay to mobile phone bill, transfer to credit card in other bank to pay outstanding (I THINK if you make transfer to other bank it's counted as fulfilling "pay" condition even though it's a transfer to other bank savings account, but don't quote me on that)

"Deposit" condition 0.70% (>RM500 deposit within the month): this one easy, I just transfer my salary here

"Spend" condition 0.70% (>RM500 spend within the month through linked OCBC debit+ATM card or any OCBC credit card that's linked to your name): I use the debit card to deposit into my Grab Wallet/Shopee etc.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 5 2021, 12:59 PM

Are you talking about the Spend bonus interest? I think you can use your OCBC card to pay bills to other merchants/entities, since there's nothing in the T&C that excludes it specifically.

Note that previously when I signed for OCBC 360 they tried to sell me OCBC-Great Eastern bancassurance product (one of those investment linked insurance "savings" plans) and THAT apparently counts as fulfilling the Spend term when I use debit card for monthly premium payment, so you can use it to pay insurance too, even if it's OCBC-Great Eastern product even debit card works provided you use the MasterCard debit card function and not the "MEPS"/bank debit pay function of your card.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 5 2021, 01:13 PM

This is generally (around 70% of the time) true for any long term investment, based on historical trends and studies.

In the long run putting more money in (lump sum) will eventually beat DCA.

However the differences is only around 2%, which is not that big of a gain.

So consider your risk appetite and whether you're aiming for long term gaining profit (lump sum better) or minimising losses (DCA better), and whether your risk appetite is able to withstand dips and volatility if you decide to lump sum.

Bear in mind also that Hoshiyuu's TWR in DCA portfolio is affected by the fact that there were deposits made during when the market trends downwards, which will push TWR to record higher % of losses because of how TWR is calculated. So it's not necessarily that lump sum is earning more than DCA, at least based on the numbers available that were given.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 7 2021, 02:43 PM

This is inaccurate thinking if you've studied historical market trend especially with high volatility/risk investments. It might go up and down more often but it might not necessarily mean recovery is faster. The averaged out uptrend may take decades to actually beat lower risk investments.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 7 2021, 02:56 PM

Several of the holdings in KWEB went up also, will have to see 😂

DCA "effectiveness" depends on what you're trying to do,
what your goals are, and your investment personality.

If you
1) potentially (POTENTIALLY, not guaranteed) want to maximise profit over the very long term
2) you're able to withstand volatility (example, you won't sweat and be tempted to withdraw if you see double digit % negative)

then it's better to lump sum (historically, profits tend to favour lump sum strategy, if you're able to wait decades for your investment)

if however, you:
1) want to minimise risk of buying just before a big dip
2) seeing large dips makes you sweat and unable to sleep i.e. you get "buyers regret" very easily
3) the idea of seeing your large lump sum going into negative makes you scared

better to DCA

Ultimately DCA is a strategy to ensure you stay invested and you don't stress about investment.

note: if you're taking money out of monthly salary and depositing regularly like an EPF deduction, that's not really true DCA strategy, it's "forced" DCA. DCA is when you have a big sum of money but you spread your sum out over a period of time buy depositing at regular intervals, regardless of whether market is bad or good at the time.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: Oct 8 2021, 11:54 AM

Consider "good luck" 😂

Better than 90% of "high risk high return" equity unit trusts out there, and impressive given how "diverse" and "risk adverse" SA's approach to portfolio has been.

1 year 2 months mark on SRI 16%, MWR at +6.14%



not too bad given the timing I entered (Ringgit strengthening over 2020 and the big lump sum near ATH), definitely got better gains elsewhere but is pretty decent for small fry budget investing

The two pain points of SA for me is that it's not that cheap in terms of fees compared to DIY, and that in the long run the method of SA's investment style means that it'll be flatter profits compared a more narrow portfolio.

That said, if a person wants to invest in overseas equities without doing too much market research, but dislikes paying the higher fees of mutual funds, I'd still recommend StashAway.

I have investments in China heavy UTs that plunged more than -30%, compared to -6% being the lowest dip of my 36% SRI StashAway portfolio that was mostly bought at February 2021 ATH. The dip level of SA to me is very acceptable given the supposed aim of StashAway which is to minimise risk.

StashAway IMO is for those who small fry cannot invest much money (since very few investment platforms out there allow you to do deposits in 2 digits that won't get eaten by fees), and/or people who don't have the time or knowledge to do DIY (functionally, people who like mutual funds but don't want to pay mutual funds sales charges).

Obviously if got the knowledge and capability to DIY, DIY will be better in terms of saving fees and (potentially) have better profits.

His returns also because he's got the financial stability from family to start early and HODL for decades. It's largely a combination of luck and genetics.