I reckon you need a wireman to do proper check at wiring. Maybe some wire shorted. Just my guessing.

Is it just me or everyone else here feels our Persona is falling apart?

Yeah. Trying to get some strength to continue on Persona here. Maybe just enjoy the moment and drive it as it is.

Leaking water is the most headache to troubleshoot.

If not from rubber then maybe from light?

I used to sit in car and ask any help i can get from family member to french from hose to find leak. Good to have a helper.

Found any gearbox specialist to check for you? Blinking D light usually signals transmission error code.

Changed together with fuel pump.

Solved bro?

My turn now for rear bonnet leak. It's from the rubber seal and leakin stops after bending the rubber a bit and apply silicone grease.

Now constantly paranoid about it leak again.

Anyone have rebuilt their engine? Hope can share cost here...

Last time this happened to me it was wire at honk reput and putus. No harm to check.

If it's original radiator, and condition still good (no rust, fins not too badly deformed), it's ok to change just the top cover, provided you are in area still got shop willing to do radiator service.

Do remember to ask your mechanic to use distilled water/ RO water, or just bring yourself to dilute the coolant if you want radiator to rust free for long term.

Anyway for our Persona to be modded to have remote trunk release? B-Line here.

Zordaq is GOAT for Persona. OEM is good enough for me as long as genuine OEM brand.

On the side wall near your accelerator pedal. Should be ACC. Try to get one fuse tapper so you don't have to mess with cutting wire. If not confident, always can get it installed in accessory shop for like RM50 to RM100 on workshmanship, depends on area and if you need to install rear camera or not.



Can still scan for OBD. Some code will be stored in ECU without triggering check engine light. But if it doesn't comes back then never mind lo... For the record if engine knocking, check engine light will flash. Maybe next service can ask your mechanic for thorough check.

Do be aware that even original is made by APM, the after market APM might be different than what APM made for proton. I learned that by buying APM alternator and the one i got (sworn by spare part shop it's persona elegance APM alrernator) and the one swapping out with PW number looks totally different.

Original does makes difference so does the price.

Note: The APM alternator didn't last as long as the original Proton's made by APM alternator. Died on it's second year.

Yeah... That's how i learned original part and OEM branded part are not the same even we can identify OEM manufacturer.

Now on Gvolt.

I tend to agree on both sides. After all no ones buy single side of slippers right? 😆

But yeah it's very common in Malaysia to change faulty side only as our cost of time and worksmanship permit this logic.

No right and wrong. Just matter of preference.

I have asked this question myself before, and realised that there's not many choices within my budget of below 100k.

The MC3 Persona seems like a good choice for improved confortability (better seat ergonomy even for rear passenger), S70 for better powertrain, Alza for better passenger capacity and fuel consumption.

But if you consider second handed market, i say perhaps you'll be opening to Mazda 3 and Honda Civic for handling?

End of the day i still stick to my car first. Not much manual transmission now that i think I'll be able to afford + enjoy.

I never flushed but I'm on my second set of aircond system (pump, coil, and dryer filter) after original pump goes out around 8th year of my car. Radiator changed few more times because of accident.

There's a lot of discussions over air-conditioning flushing. Some say you need because of internal wear and tear of pump, some say no need as it's a closed system.

In the end of the day i would say based on who works on your system, and how they do it. This is due to practice is different from shop to shop.

For example, textbook instruction recommends technician to evacuate system to vacuum before load in refrigerant; but local shop uses compressed air mostly to blow tubings to dry, and my technician swears by using his cylinder of nitrogen gas.
Some shop follow original spec on how many gram of refrigerant & oil to go in, some just agak agak like my technician.

In short, it really depends.

Any particular reason for avoiding S70?