Just got my extractor changed after smelling exhaust smell in my car porch. Now can't even get new parts for that and resort to second handed extractor.

Crack occurs at the infamous right hand side branch.

Usually flywheel oil seal can fix one shot when changing clutch plate. Wear and tear bro.

Oh my manual transmission clutch plate gave up around 210,000km. But auto transmission using torque converter i think? Really not sure got clutch component or not...

2 of the LED bulbs in my rear lamp (left hand side) just kong. Can the LEDs on the LED board assembly be replaced by soldering? Anyone done that?

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: Feb 3 2025, 12:45 PM

Technically when you change rotor, you should change new pads as well due to the requirement of surface fitting between them.

But if the thickness is sufficient, you still can skim the rotor, but still need new pads for your front set.

Yet, if financially stretched, still can pakai one, will lower performance and the sound.

I tend to avoid Bosch branded brake pads. Banyak fake one and cannot tell apart.

For my car it's usually throttle body as it gets dirty very often. Based on your service record, you can always check for idling issues first such as spark plugs, air filter, or worse, sensors and others.

Try unscrew it, lay the membrane nice nice, and screw back nicely. Last time when i had a leaky brake fluid reservoir, it was because of the cap wasn't screwed in with proper alignment to the thread. It looks normal but you will feel the difference when you unscrew & screw back properly.

If all is still the same, i guess you have to change the cap. It's available on shopee.

Can clean throttle body first. Get one cleaner from Mr DIY, use a flat head screw to loosen the intake case, and spray at the butterfly sparingly. If you OCD, then can ask someone to help put foot on accelerator pedal, depress fully and turn key to on position without cranking, butterfly will open fully and your finger can go in to wipe/spray more carburetor cleaner.

Errrr... I thought it will keep open as long as someone is still depressing the pedal.

Sorry about that.

Don't have my PE with me now to verify. It will be in workshop for next 2 weeks or so for engine and cooling system restoration. Oil leak from all 3 crankshaft and camshafts, leading to swollen timing belts, jammed thermostat and rusty radiator casing, with coolants seeping out of all joints plus broken radiator cover during air conditioner technician revving engine hard to test if coolant temperature indicator not tally with actual coolant temp.

Got a clogged catalytic converter here. Anyone has same issue and provide your opinion either to decat or get a new one?

Ok will avoid korean one then. Thanks bro.

Restoring my engine as crankshaft & camshaft oil seal leaking oil even with new seal. Workshop noticed clogged catcon while assembling it back.

The engine clocked 600,000km. According to the workshop the catalytic converter outlasted the usual lifespan of its peer.

To be honest it's really struggling. To go for aftermarket "high flow" cat or get a new one.

Thing with booster is there's a diaphragm inside which if soaked long in brake fluid, it'll go bad.

I'll go for a check first, then depends on situation or wallet decide if you want TRW or Original. As long as rubber component involved, i believe original is better. But no wrong to go OEM one, TRW is reliable brand.

The check and change part sometimes is budi bicara, because if they spend time check for you but no job done, the shop also shy to charge you mah... Yet the man-hour already spend there on non-revenue generating job.

I have had brake fluid leak out of pump and causes the black paint of booster to peel off. Can't see anything from outside, and i have mentally prepared to change booster as well. Quite lucky that upon dismantling brake pump, inside of booster is dry. Turned out it's pump actuator rubber gone bad already. So just change the pump.

Sidenote: Although most of the mechanics don't advocate changing brake fluid at fixed interval, i found changing brake fluid + bleeding every 25,000km helps extending life of pumps (master pump, 2 small one at drum brake, and clutch pump).
Same goes to power steering fluid, where my wife's viva already on second rack, mine still sports original rack.


Voscar bro, just went to workshop to check with the mechanic that install back my catalytic converter, he said it's badly clogged with honeycomb shattered into small pieces inside. The powder has to be emptied into a plastic bag before threw away. I'll get by with an empty bullet first, while saving money for a proper catcon in future.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: May 14 2025, 11:35 AM

I went for original hahaha. But like i said before, OEM of respectable brand is ok one. One good analogy in your case is, your RM150 can get 80% already, would you want to pay another RM150 to reach 100%?

I choose original because of gatal la... For your case you need to weight your OCD aganist your wallet before decide IMO. No right and wrong in this department as long as you don't use cap ayam.

For your power steering, pump no issue no need to change la... Leaking was the hose right? In my case, it's the hose at the bottom of power steering reservoir that got wet with oil not long after change. Once it was the nipple of the reservoir cracked, there was other times that the hose just couldn't tahan and leak from connection.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: May 14 2025, 04:10 PM

You already have answer one... All you need is someone to concur with you hahahaha... Use dry tissue to wipe the wet part time to time, if wet again then you'll know it's time to change.

The only concern i have is air. I have no idea if a leaky brake master pump will introduce air into brake lines, and if your car have ABS, then it add consideration of air being introduced into ABS pump, and the risk of ABS not working as intended when you e-brake, not forgeting the increase in cost of replace the break master pump will go up as you need to bleed ABS pump as well.

Personally, i would suggest to change if you hit highway speed with the car. If it's town use only, can keep and monitor.

Your spare tyre well and area around it. Might compromise water proofing. Can check by inspecting below the car of that area. I might want to check for boot lock function as well.

Slow leak like this should be ok. Just watch at the temperature gauge closely, and don't rev high rpm.



Something related to my car. Anyone decat here that would like to offer your 2 cents? My FC become very bad after decat. On gutted cat con now.

Just realised I'll have more tyre option if i go for 195/55/R15 . Anyone can offer their feedback on this tyre spec versus the original 195/60/R15?