Hahahhahah what happened to your pull tab? Patah? Any chances of fix i should know of if patah?

Sounds like mounting problem to me. Or worse, gearbox?

If original one i think it's one set on ignition, door and boot. But after market got sell separately one but kinda shagged as you need to carry a few keys.

By the way anyone tried the B branded engine oil in shopee that looks like detergent refill packing? Legit oil?

The thing is from other LYN thread they cannot find the cert despite their claim. And certainly they did not display the API-SP logo on their packaging. Just the wording of SP.😂

Let's see how.

Semi Syn 10w-40 every 5,000km

Just got my engine harness redone and now engine humming smooth like on butter. Maybe it's the rich AF mixture mode when ECU learning after being unplugged for 2 weeks.

Same

Proton recommeded serpentine belt tensioner pulley to be changed together with timing belt because they estimate the lifetime will be same to timing belt kit.

However most of the workshops adopt the practice of rosak baru tukar. Signs of failing tensioner is kuk kuk sound as if you lugging engine in my case.

Not sure whether is related to your issue or not. There's 2 spec of thermostat for campro in market. If not mistaken one is 78°C and another is 84°C. If you installed the one with higher opening temperature, i imagine your fan will run longer to dissipate heat between each thermostat open-close cycle. The changes in your fan behavior might warrant a coolant level check, water pump check or radiator efficiency check.

However this doesn't explain your cold start issue. Have you taken a look at your throttle body and consider a cleaning of it?

On the side note, there is a user in Facebook that run his Gen2/Persona without thermostat. But would this contribute long term damage to engine due to non optimum engine temperature remains unknown.

If your fan hasn't been changed for some time, maybe it's fan motor. Average lifespan is 5 years. Just keep close monitor on temperature gauge will do.

I clean my own throttle body. Not very difficult after 2 times of practice. Tricky part is the connector. Need to push in, pull clip, then only can pull out to remove. The rest is 10mm bolts, 1 vacuum line, intake cover and one can of carburetor cleaner from Mr DIY. All the best.

But as long as it doesn't overheat then it's fine. It really depends on your driving style and traffic condition as well.

For throttle body, after you clean it you'll need to perform reset. It's documented in this forum if not mistaken, if not it's on YouTube as well. You'll need to on your car with accelerator pressed and hold for 30 secs and those.

Of course with car that old there's a chances that the mechanism will break if you force it open.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: Apr 12 2023, 11:05 PM

Would be accurate if you clean all the leaks and access the leaks severity from clean state?

Can try carburetor cleaner. Remember to put old newspaper below to catch the drip after you spray.

If really it's the dipstick housing, then it's a cheap fix. Just pull it out after unscrew the anchor and replace the O Ring.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: May 19 2023, 02:45 PM

Quite common if i recall correctly. But does check engine light shows up? When my brake switch fail, check engine light turned on.

Might need to check for short if next replacement melt as well.

Quick check. What you guys use for power steering fluid? The one for Honda, or just ATF?

Yeah it's a bit too close to be comfortable. Mine is a bit further away from hose. I suppose when your engine is cold you can always loosen the bracket screw and adjust the position, then tighten it back. Just don't force it too much else the glue give away. By the way i thought it would be easier just to change the o-ring?

I'm using oem. Just make sure the PSI rating is the same then you should be fine.

Might be wiring of speed sensor also. Last time i had this because of my mechanic forgot to plug it back after clutch change.