If it's no longer under warranty, I don't think you need to go SC for this case. It should not be anything major.

Just be careful with certain accessory shops that wants to re-do the wiring and all that, charge you hell, and then causes headache for next person who looks at it in the future.

Hmm, I have the same model, but I got mine with Silverstones. Dang.

I just go to Taman Sri Serdang. Got 1 shop opposite of the McDonalds called CV Car Auto Enterprise - they fixed my alarm system on my previous Gen2. So far, they never mess things up.

There's 1 more shop near Hero Mart which ruined my wiring and made it so difficult for the next guy to see what's wrong. There's also AK Speed, but I never test yet. AK Speed and CV Car Auto have been around for 10 years+ in Sri Serdang.

This post has been edited by Jescon: Oct 25 2019, 12:02 PM

Going for PS3?

Your SA never gave estimated time?

xEDynamics, why did you change your Assurance Triplemax?

I would say so, yes. When I was applying loans, I had time to apply to many banks - I always got around 3.1% to 3.3% (depends on their BR). Small loan amount always higher interest rate.

I was lucky to get 2.9% from Bank Rakyat (40k loan) because they had a promo during raya.

But honestly, the difference is almost negligible for small loans.

This post has been edited by Jescon: Nov 2 2019, 09:30 AM

Don't la remove catalytic converter. Later smelly. Think of the other people.

There are other ways to solve this without removing the catalytic converter, like carbon cleaning, tuning and cleaning the catalytic converter. Rare to hear catalytic converter rosak, and causing the exhaust to choke.

In Malaysia, I think got no law for removing the catalytic converter... The horse power increase is noticeable, actually.

That's some seriously wide longitudinal grooves.

How's the noise so far? (I know it might be too new to tell)

Does JPJ actually check? Only in Puspakom right - via emission test?

Actually, you can increase HP by removing the cat con + re-tuning, but it highly depends on the car. Usually people say better "pull", but lower FC is definitely not true.

Still looks thick to me

I've only heard of being pulled over for excessive exhaust sound. Hmm, hopefully they do check more often. Yeah, every time in indoor parking there will some these cars that smell like toxic chemical plant...

There's a lot of info on this thread, and previous threads concerning dashboard and other rattling sounds for the iriz and persona.

Most of the time its due to:

1) Radio/head unit cover plastic-to-plastic contact with dashboard

2) AC Panel knobs plastic (for me this was the worst sound)

3) Inside steering (little sound when u go over really uneven roads)

4) Same things as (1) but for speedometer.

5) Glove box? So far, nothing from that for me.

Could also be:

1) B pillar slight rattle (annoying on right ear).

2) The seat belt "holder?" beside the seat, near the floor - plastic banging sound going over very uneven roads.

3) That seat belt on the roof at the rear seats.

Stuff I still don't know:

1) Like window rattling a bit from the back/boot area.

Mine is 2019 Iriz Premium. It'll still rattle because I think it's the same dashboard.

Don't bother with them about rattling, they don't know. Just DIY. Clear one by one, and slowly find for the sounds. It can be quite annoying, especially when it's brand new car.

My method is to remove and drive. Passenger dashboard, might be due to wiring inside touching the dashboard, aircond filter not tightly fixed, or even glove box. remove the globe box for starters and drive. But always fix the loudest sounds first.

Today I saw this car outside, I thought Iriz 2020.

Ok, I'll try it out soon.

Wait a minute. Suddenly I feel like deja vu... you asked this before right?

Stationary needs more effort, but doable, on tarmac.

So... botak tyres = more grip? Wait... something ain't right here.

They did alignment, surely they would checked your lower arms.

+ just changed steering rack.

Did they check the EPS motor?

Nah, battery does not affect EPS. Perhaps your Alternator, but it'll be better if he said your wiring, could be leaking current, etc.

I really wonder if they thoroughly checked your electrical system; my mechanic used to check the voltages (from the ECU) and check if everything is working (with regard to the manufacturer's guidelines) rather than waiting for an error code. He had this book that states the correct voltage for each "section" of the car (not sure what's the correct term... lel)