Slam the doors and boot harder. Sometimes not fully closed eventhough satisfying thud.

If you keep your keyfob together with your phone in the same pocket; and the phone is middle like [keyfob || phone || car] you will get spotty connection.

1) Probably not. It's not designed to be externally charged. There are no user serviceable terminals...
A little bird told me the inverter+PCU+DC/DC converter costs RM30k as quoted from an SC. +RM5.5k battery.

I think you are looking for a PHEV. Not a HEV.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Jan 19 2018, 09:51 PM

2. Jerk happens only when no battery and car is in forced charge mode (engine turn on to focus on charging battery).
Accelerator has nothing to do with jerkiness. It's more speed dependant. DCT automated gearshift based on speed (unless >5° incline/genting/hill then different programming)
When the car has battery, the jerk is not that bad. Just a slight hitch, like crosswind blow at highway or fast lorry passing, car just rock abit. (something like that I guess?). (except during condition 2.2.1)
When the car has depleted the battery... it's more noticeable.
2.1 Jerk happens only during engaging 2nd gear at around ~15km/h. Upshift or downshift, doesn't matter.
But remember this only happens when 2. is valid.
2.2 If stuck in traffic jam (means can't go faster than 20km/h and brake, move, brake, move pattern), if your car hover at ~15km/h, jerk jerk jerk from upshift engage gear, jerk.... downshift engage gear jerk... upshift engage gear jerk.
But remember this only happens when 2. is valid.
2.2.1 If you are on ±3° incline, jerking is super bad. If flat-ish, still manageable.
2.2.2 You need to be alert and drive like DCT. Give lots of space in front, then catch up.

3. If your route got very long uphill incline, this may happen if you creep. Drive like DCT, leave gap, catch up.

4. Usual forced charging condition charges up to 4 bars at 56%*. If A/C @ 26°C Speed 1 AND 100% no movement AND no brake light. Longest is 5 minutes 27 seconds.
* The percentages is not balanced. Lower charge depletes faster than higher charge.


This post has been edited by danthe0: Jan 23 2018, 08:54 PM

Gotta be patient (and piss the guy behind )
Either transmission f up or pissed drivers behind or driver behind also lax and give space.

fuel consumption:
http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/city/2017?...&submodel_id=62

http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/jazz/2017?...&submodel_id=62

There's a Unit selector on the top left to change to km/L

This post has been edited by danthe0: Jan 25 2018, 01:09 AM

The Koreans never had a hybrid system mass deployed in the tropics. Wait and see.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Feb 4 2018, 12:18 AM

What's the anti freeze for... ?

If you park in the open,
Dark colours + hybrid + >65°C under the sun = no-no.
Warranty for battery failure does not cover "wear and tear and environmental factors".
Unless you absolutely must have the grey, I'd stay away from it. I've already made the wrong choice.

2017 modern steel metallic, NH-797M

1st gen myvi 1.3L symptom .
It should be linear, push 3/4 way down at low speed city driving (<40km/h), car should slam the brakes and car at immediate stop within 1 second.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Feb 27 2018, 10:42 PM

Put your car in ACC mode then read the number, don't start engine and read.
That 14.4V is charging voltage from alternator -> Battery -> Device reading.

If ACC mode, is pure battery only. Below 11V unhealthy/might be a little late.
Do the reading at morning before cold start for best result.
After you start car, the car got charge battery already. Reading lari already.

If you idle with fan/blower on yeah... problem.
If 1+ hour, gg drain. 30 minute still OK provided it's after a > 20 minute journey with low speed A/C and no headlight.

If you keep doing this, I would recommend get a external 12V battery charger to top up once a month/week.
Or get those voltage monitor cigarette socket thingy, if you see drop down to 11.5V, start the car then continue idle with engine on.

Weak battery ?
Those look like electrical stuff.
Fan "spoiled" could be voltage not high enough.
Sensor keep beeping could be insufficient voltage causing ADC reference to go whack.

Headlight ON, DRL OFF.
Or else, cabut fuse under driver side fusebox if you can manage to remove the interior trim.

Yeah it tends to jerk if you push it a little then immediately fully lift the pedal. You need to gradually lift the pedal (maybe over 2 seconds) to avoid the jerk during low speed (esp when transmission is cold started).
If you can hear the engine sounds, you shouldn't fully lift the pedal, you should lift gradually.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 18 2018, 12:04 AM

FL screen also black, if manually turn it off inside the settings. (3 taps)
Only on BT new track, it will turn on LCD (light grey backlight), and show Track Title + Artist in ASCII.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 18 2018, 08:39 PM

I've heard one person kena from drained 12V battery, then jump start, then error pop up until reset error @ SC.
Another one kena from water tumbler spill into battery via boot. That one SC open up the whole chunk at the back (battery+inverter+dc-dc) and blow fan at it to dry. Then ok.

If you kena this, please try to minimise the number of times starting your car.
We don't have an alternator to charge the 12V battery.
The 12V battery is used to start the car.

Unless your house got 12V charger la...

It's also not fun to drive when you kena this. Cause no battery assist and super jerky trans, and car doesn't allow you go above 60km/h (or was it 40km/h).

Only when got error or problem then need take care some extra things...
Usually got warning first before become error. If don't follow warning, then die la.

Normal day to day... like normal lo...
except car got no engine sound and only use 1/2 fuel consumption of normal car :
...and need to monitor hybrid battery level to avoid stuck in jam with half charged battery
...and need to drive like DCT car when stuck in jam when run out of battery
...and need to plan and remember which stretch of road can use to charge battery and which stretch should stay in EV to use up battery
...and need to remember to press S mode when overtaking or else EV + Engine On + DCT lag
...and need to remember to press S mode when going up mountain road
...and need to remember to press S mode when crawling in traffic @ 15~35 km/h to top up battery while in congestion
...and need to remember to use L mode in the morning to prevent hard jerks
...and need to remember to switch back to D after blue coolant disappear in the morning
...and so on and so forth...

If want worry free car, please skip hybrids. Stay with normal car better. It's very hard (for me) to switch off brain and pretend to not notice and ignore... the car will make you notice one way or another...

Ya, morning if residential area (non condo, no parking ramps) should be driving slow speed while trans warming up.
The iDCD when shift first electric gear (Gear 1) to 1st mechanical gear (Gear 2) abit rough when cold start and especially in morning (25~27°C).

Only last for ~1m in L gear. Reverse car then drive in L for short while then D back...