Nov 5 2017, 08:26 PM
QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Nov 5 2017, 05:11 PM)
Thats a pity, since you spent so much money and effort to get CC working with crap HU. Ever since i managed to get it mirrored via my Mirascreen device, its functionality went up by 10X.
Only thing left is crappy sound stage from my 4 speakers.
Shameless plug:Only thing left is crappy sound stage from my 4 speakers.
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QUOTE(danthe0 @ Sep 2 2017, 03:56 PM)
So, here's what I've done, then gave up on but it semi-works without replacing anything in the car.
I was mainly aiming to polish sheit into bronze, not shiet into gold, so it kinda works.
Do note, this is not the conventional way to get better sound quality.
This is figuratively shoving a square into a circle and you get squared circles, or rounded squares. Whatever.
Point is, am forcing stock speakers to behave like other speakers.
Equipment Used:
Phone [3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX to RCA] MiniDSP [RCA to 3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX] BT Transmitter [Bluetooth] -> [Bluetooth] Head Unit
Those who see the hardware and roughly know what I'm trying to do with the hardware above, just skip cause you already know it won't work proper.
Pros:
80% match my reference (AFTER a little +1/2dB EQ bump with phone *sigh*)
Head unit saves volume profile across Sources (AM/FM1/FM2/BT) so can safely change source without changing volume.
Cost??Maybe?? (I haven't scouted the price of amplifier+crossovered tweeters+installation yet
)
BT takes over "Media Audio" profile only. You still can route phone calls to phone.
Blind test puts a smile on your face on how much improvement it got compared to stock... then you cross check with your reference... and
but keep at it 
, it'll shine abit more, then you'll realise you've hit that limit and continue
Cons:
Soundstage/imaging located at top part of steering wheel which still sucks. Probably due to lack of tweeter/front speaker. Need hardware upgrade to fix which may void warranty (idk) and fork out more $$$.
Startup procedure is pain in the ass due to old ass bluetooth version pairing, but mainly because Honda Malaysia skimped on a <RM2 AUX connector for god knows what reason
-Power up car > Turn on BT Device > on the HU, go to Bluetooth Audio > Settings > Connect Bluetooth Audio > Select BT device > on BT device, Trigger Rejoin procedure > immediately on HU click Connect icon > Exit main screen
Can't control Previous/Next track due to 3.5mm AUX.
Still need to tune with phone equaliser. (may be avoided, just need to spend extra few more hours or so)
Noise from BT transmitter can be heard at quiet parts of the song. Hissssssss. Like those AUX to FM transmitter noise. (This is gain-staging problem, MiniDSP mainly cuts dB to match house curve. You can try set Bass -5 on HU to so MiniDSP doesn't reduce gains so much, just an idea.)
Uses 2 USB ports to power MiniDSP and BT Transmitter. So you probably need a 12V to 3x/4x USB and a good quality or modern one. (1x charge phone + 1x dashcam)
--If you cheap out on 12V to USB socket (ones that use cheapo 50sen MC34063 ICs), both, BT transmitter and MiniDSP will cause a lot of noise.
----To fix BT transmitter noise, you can solder extra SMD 50V 10nF+10uF+10uF (space constraint) on BOTH input and output side tank capacitors. Solder them between the through hole electro cap legs. --BT transmitter has internal battery (most have it at least), so it will draw a light load current from the regulator, thus no noise. MiniDSP pulls too much current and it screeches.
Wires. Dem freaking wires everywhere. 2 AUX + 2 USB going from 12V to armrest.
Can't cast because casting forces audio routing to end device. (I think?) That means no 'Waze on the big screen'. Boo hoo.
No album art info & display. But FL HU already don't work proper ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Total damage:
USD $105 MiniDSP DSP hardware
USD $10 MiniDSP DSP software
USD $75 UMIK-1 calibrated mic (optional, you can do it by ear if you trust yourself, or you can do it the old way, RTA/ear+pink noise)
~RM9 3.5mm -> RCA
~RM0/RM9 RCA -> 3.5mm (BT Transmitter should provide it)
RM60/140 Bluetooth transmitter (~RM60 if you can wait for 1 month shipping from China, ~RM140 ship in 3 days)
RM??? 12V to 3/4 port USB charger. (Had one lying around, since 6 years ago. In the car. Under the sun. It didn't explode. Yet.)
Lots and lots of reading and trying to understand and actually doing by experimenting and failing.
Time.
Fuel because A/C due to Weather hot and humid AF, everytime, everyday.
Quick Overview:
That just about sums it up.
I was mainly aiming to polish sheit into bronze, not shiet into gold, so it kinda works.
Do note, this is not the conventional way to get better sound quality.
This is figuratively shoving a square into a circle and you get squared circles, or rounded squares. Whatever.
Point is, am forcing stock speakers to behave like other speakers.
Equipment Used:
Phone [3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX to RCA] MiniDSP [RCA to 3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX] BT Transmitter [Bluetooth] -> [Bluetooth] Head Unit
Those who see the hardware and roughly know what I'm trying to do with the hardware above, just skip cause you already know it won't work proper.
Pros:
80% match my reference (AFTER a little +1/2dB EQ bump with phone *sigh*)
Head unit saves volume profile across Sources (AM/FM1/FM2/BT) so can safely change source without changing volume.
Cost??Maybe?? (I haven't scouted the price of amplifier+crossovered tweeters+installation yet
)BT takes over "Media Audio" profile only. You still can route phone calls to phone.
Blind test puts a smile on your face on how much improvement it got compared to stock... then you cross check with your reference... and
but keep at it , it'll shine abit more, then you'll realise you've hit that limit and continue Cons:
Soundstage/imaging located at top part of steering wheel which still sucks. Probably due to lack of tweeter/front speaker. Need hardware upgrade to fix which may void warranty (idk) and fork out more $$$.
Startup procedure is pain in the ass due to old ass bluetooth version pairing, but mainly because Honda Malaysia skimped on a <RM2 AUX connector for god knows what reason
-Power up car > Turn on BT Device > on the HU, go to Bluetooth Audio > Settings > Connect Bluetooth Audio > Select BT device > on BT device, Trigger Rejoin procedure > immediately on HU click Connect icon > Exit main screen
Can't control Previous/Next track due to 3.5mm AUX.
Still need to tune with phone equaliser. (may be avoided, just need to spend extra few more hours or so)
Noise from BT transmitter can be heard at quiet parts of the song. Hissssssss. Like those AUX to FM transmitter noise. (This is gain-staging problem, MiniDSP mainly cuts dB to match house curve. You can try set Bass -5 on HU to so MiniDSP doesn't reduce gains so much, just an idea.)
Uses 2 USB ports to power MiniDSP and BT Transmitter. So you probably need a 12V to 3x/4x USB and a good quality or modern one. (1x charge phone + 1x dashcam)
--If you cheap out on 12V to USB socket (ones that use cheapo 50sen MC34063 ICs), both, BT transmitter and MiniDSP will cause a lot of noise.
----To fix BT transmitter noise, you can solder extra SMD 50V 10nF+10uF+10uF (space constraint) on BOTH input and output side tank capacitors. Solder them between the through hole electro cap legs. --BT transmitter has internal battery (most have it at least), so it will draw a light load current from the regulator, thus no noise. MiniDSP pulls too much current and it screeches.
Wires. Dem freaking wires everywhere. 2 AUX + 2 USB going from 12V to armrest.
Can't cast because casting forces audio routing to end device. (I think?) That means no 'Waze on the big screen'. Boo hoo.
No album art info & display. But FL HU already don't work proper ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Total damage:
USD $105 MiniDSP DSP hardware
USD $10 MiniDSP DSP software
USD $75 UMIK-1 calibrated mic (optional, you can do it by ear if you trust yourself, or you can do it the old way, RTA/ear+pink noise)
~RM9 3.5mm -> RCA
~RM0/RM9 RCA -> 3.5mm (BT Transmitter should provide it)
RM60/140 Bluetooth transmitter (~RM60 if you can wait for 1 month shipping from China, ~RM140 ship in 3 days)
RM??? 12V to 3/4 port USB charger. (Had one lying around, since 6 years ago. In the car. Under the sun. It didn't explode. Yet.)
Lots and lots of reading and trying to understand and actually doing by experimenting and failing.
Time.
Fuel because A/C due to Weather hot and humid AF, everytime, everyday.
Quick Overview:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Starting from scratch w/ UMIK-1:
1. MiniDSP, time align the speakers first. My settings: Left channel: -1.7~1.9 dB w/ 7 ms, Right channel: 0 dB w/ 2 ms.
2. REW + UMIK, measure frequency response at 7 positions at Driver's headrest. Average the 7 Frequency Responses.
2a. More info here.
3. REW, assign a House Curve. Roll your own curve or use the on where many prefer, JBL house curve.
4. REW, AutoEQ > Generic > 14 biquads > set Target Setting - LF Rise Slope & HF Fall Slope (dB/Ocatve) from 1.8 to 0.0, auto generate and export them to a .txt file. You'll want to leave the last 6 for later. MiniDSP supports 6+8+6=20 biquads.
5. Windows, Separate the .txt file into 2 txt files with File#1; biquad1~6, #2; biquad7~14 then rename 7~14 to biquad1~8. Remove the last comma at the last line for each file.
6. MiniDSP, First Parametric EQ block, Import REW file, choose File#1. Hit Copy to Input 2.
7. MiniDSP, copy File#2 and paste content into Crossover - Advanced, hit Process. Repeat for other Crossover.
8. REW + UMIK, remeasure at 7 positions. Get average of 7.
9. REW, AutoEQ > MiniDSP > 6 biquads > set (dB/Octave) to 0.0. Auto generate then perform final tweaking. Export as File#3.
10. MiniDSP, Parametric EQ - Output 1 > Import REW file > choose File#3.
11. REW + UMIK, remeasure at 7 positions. Get average of 7.
12. Confirm measurements.
13a. Listen to your reference, then listen to HU.
13b. Repeat steps 9 if measurements seem off.
14. Enjoy/Get disappointed.
15. Rinse and repeat steps 3~14 until Enjoy but disappointed because staging/imaging is still wrong.
Suggestion that may work if you don't have UMIK-1:
1. Repeat step 1 above.
2. Request, download and load the 7 averaged frequency response REW (.mdat file)
3~7. Repeat step 3~7 above.
8. REW, Generate Pink noise and find an equipment that can do RTA. (Phone/tablet/laptop mic; here's where it gets inaccurate/tough/done by ear)
9. REW, EQ, manually generate where you think it needs to be adjusted.
10. Repeat step 10 above.
11. Repeat step 11 above w/ RTA.
12~15. Repeat step 12~15 above.
I can post a guide with screenshot if there is enough interest.
Very doubtful though, results ain't stellar and what's more the high cost(?) to moderate gain ratio; but eyyyy- Customisable House Curvvve man.
Sounds (almost) exactly like how you want it to sound.
Anti-siblance? Set it in your House Curve.
Prefer vocal presence over instruments? House Curve.
Prefer tight, deep, punchy Bass? House Curve.
Prefer loose, wobbly, bloated, fat Bass? House Curve.
Oh and congrats, you made it here.
1. MiniDSP, time align the speakers first. My settings: Left channel: -1.7~1.9 dB w/ 7 ms, Right channel: 0 dB w/ 2 ms.
2. REW + UMIK, measure frequency response at 7 positions at Driver's headrest. Average the 7 Frequency Responses.
2a. More info here.
3. REW, assign a House Curve. Roll your own curve or use the on where many prefer, JBL house curve.
4. REW, AutoEQ > Generic > 14 biquads > set Target Setting - LF Rise Slope & HF Fall Slope (dB/Ocatve) from 1.8 to 0.0, auto generate and export them to a .txt file. You'll want to leave the last 6 for later. MiniDSP supports 6+8+6=20 biquads.
5. Windows, Separate the .txt file into 2 txt files with File#1; biquad1~6, #2; biquad7~14 then rename 7~14 to biquad1~8. Remove the last comma at the last line for each file.
6. MiniDSP, First Parametric EQ block, Import REW file, choose File#1. Hit Copy to Input 2.
7. MiniDSP, copy File#2 and paste content into Crossover - Advanced, hit Process. Repeat for other Crossover.
8. REW + UMIK, remeasure at 7 positions. Get average of 7.
9. REW, AutoEQ > MiniDSP > 6 biquads > set (dB/Octave) to 0.0. Auto generate then perform final tweaking. Export as File#3.
10. MiniDSP, Parametric EQ - Output 1 > Import REW file > choose File#3.
11. REW + UMIK, remeasure at 7 positions. Get average of 7.
12. Confirm measurements.
13a. Listen to your reference, then listen to HU.
13b. Repeat steps 9 if measurements seem off.
14. Enjoy/Get disappointed.
15. Rinse and repeat steps 3~14 until Enjoy but disappointed because staging/imaging is still wrong.
Suggestion that may work if you don't have UMIK-1:
1. Repeat step 1 above.
2. Request, download and load the 7 averaged frequency response REW (.mdat file)
3~7. Repeat step 3~7 above.
8. REW, Generate Pink noise and find an equipment that can do RTA. (Phone/tablet/laptop mic; here's where it gets inaccurate/tough/done by ear)
9. REW, EQ, manually generate where you think it needs to be adjusted.
10. Repeat step 10 above.
11. Repeat step 11 above w/ RTA.
12~15. Repeat step 12~15 above.
I can post a guide with screenshot if there is enough interest.
Very doubtful though, results ain't stellar and what's more the high cost(?) to moderate gain ratio; but eyyyy- Customisable House Curvvve man.
Sounds (almost) exactly like how you want it to sound.
Anti-siblance? Set it in your House Curve.
Prefer vocal presence over instruments? House Curve.
Prefer tight, deep, punchy Bass? House Curve.
Prefer loose, wobbly, bloated, fat Bass? House Curve.
Oh and congrats, you made it here.
That just about sums it up.
If you don't want void warranty, cutting wires you may try above to fix your sound stage/imaging. Only affects YOU, the driver. Passenger will get terrible sound.
Downside, you can't use miracast... It's an either, or, solution unfortunately...
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