If not picky, all these don't apply (except S mode at mountain road).
Will still reduce fuel consumption vs normal car by at least 40%.
i.e. If city jam 9~10km/L, i-DCD should get 15~18 km/L.

Turn off A/C if you can tahan. Easily +4 km/L per highway trip.
Pulse and glide / Maximise time in EV if highway limit is 80~90 km/h.

Avoid cruising at 60~75 km/h speeds while engine is on, bump up to 80+km/h where possible, unless you want to maximise time spent in EV.
For city driving, if you hang just abit below 60 km/h and if you can notice the engine sound, cruise at that speed for maximum regen, then return to EV when 4/5 bar available.

Don't creep in traffic when your battery is out.
If you see 2 bar battery -> forced charging back to 3 bar, once it touches 3 bar, you can enter EV if you manage to reach >15 km/h.
So, give space, then ramp speed, engine should cut off and return to EV.

If you going long long uphill road, please use S mode.
Charging with S mode while at standstill DOES NOT charge the car.
Please practise overtaking when step pedal hard to avoid dangerous situations. There's a 3 second delay if you decide to overtake while in EV + hard throttle.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 23 2018, 09:59 PM

Cons of dry DCT is you should not crawl in traffic + jerks/hitches at low speed.
Other manufacturer's DCT is ONLY DCT, ours got battery supplement. For them, like it or not, if they crawl like mad in jam, higher chance for transmission overheat.
For our case, supplemented by battery, when crawling traffic jam, the battery will be pushing the car and transmission will not half-clutch. (EV mode is planetary gear on gear 1 then mate with gears 3,5,7 at higher speeds)
The only problem with our Battery+DCT is when... you run out of batteries. Then the car is a normal DCT.

So, if crawling type jam, for ours, will be like EV for 3~15 minutes then no battery (DCT) for 1~2 minutes, then EV for 3~15 minutes, then DCT for 1~2 minutes. (up to 15 minutes if flat road and no AC)
It's like... NO DCT weakness... DCT weakness... NO DCT weakness... DCT weakness... pattern in a jam.

Honda tried to make a cool way to try avoid DCT problem but... another weakness also pops up...
I think 2 people I heard kena already, jam up karak / incline -> trans overheat warning.
When no battery, the car is basically in Gear 2 AND slipping the clutch AND pulling the car from 0km/h moving uphill. (I read somewhere 3~7° incline will stress the engine/car by 50% more or something)
Don't own a manual but very very stressful for the clutch I imagine.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 24 2018, 12:13 AM

S mode overrides Econ for throttle response. Similar to old myvi response, tap "abit", car shoots forward.
S mode forces car to be engine mode.
S mode allows RPM to hang much much higher than Econ. (normally Econ ~1900 rpm shift [except Gear 5], vs S mode 2400~2500 rpm shift when cruising*)

Ya, it will prep the electric motor to the correct gear to give a boost when accelerating. Basically, faster response/pickup.
When engine is ramping to 3k+ RPM, the motor already pushing the car. Can feel instant torque while engine revving up.
It's like press pedal moderately: instantly car push forward, hear high RPM, then engine takeover to push car forward + little bit of battery.


The Honda marketing 1.8L claim is almost BS.
The car can only sustain/hit a PEAK of 1.8L for 1-2 seconds at low electric motor RPM (standstill or new electric gear). Then the electric motor run out of torque already. They even published in their "Honda R&D Technical Library" place; showing the motor torque vs RPM curve... So... buyers beware or something ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Prius motor has the same type curve. Peak high at 100~2000rpm, then taper off like crazy.
Those who have the idea that electric motor can maintain full torque then taper off at high rpm 4000++ rpm, please remove that thought. Maybe pure EV with dedicated cooling, ok. Light hybrids... hell no.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 25 2018, 10:16 PM

S mode overrides Econ. Econ/Normal/Sport mode can charge to 5 bar...
S mode will charge battery until full 5 bar more faster cause higher RPM. (full 5 bar as in "Car has been in 5 bars for long time already", "car just entered 5 bar" = start 5 bar)
Reminder: Car doesn't charge when stationary in S mode.
6th bar can get if cruising downhill or if brake moderately for quite some distance.
When in 6th bar, car will not enter EV to prevent overcharge condition. You need to bleed off the battery down to 5 bar, then only can re enter EV mode. Engine on means FC drop.

This post has been edited by danthe0: Apr 26 2018, 08:50 PM

1) Ask your SA explain how does doing that prolong the hybrid system life.
Pressing the start stop twice = ACC mode, then hold brake and press again = normal startup procedure... so roundabout...
oh... holdover from last time using key system. Key needs to go in sequence... insert key -> ACC -> Crank...
2) Go for 97 if your wallet allows it. It's Euro 4, lower sulphur content, yadda yadda. Wait until 95 upgraded to Euro 4, then use back 95. 95 Euro 4 should be coming 3rd/4th quarter this year.


On cold starts, the engine will still fire up and warm up until the blue light extinguishes (~54°C coolant temp) then it'll return to EV.

Drain hybrid battery power a lot more vs LED, and the throw is not far enough in city driving (when got orange light from lamppost).

Only once happened, no problemo. Just don't repeatedly do the same thing on purpose.

and as i switched back into D to go, the car shuddered a little.
Should be normal, at edge of parking pawl.
If you notice, when you put P to R but hold brakes (while engine is on) then only move, you'll hear another extra clunk sound from the pawl disengaging. There'll be 2 clunks, one from the pawl, one from shifting P->R/D.

i always thought it wouldn't shove the car into P against my wishes
At very low speed it will do still do this 'Engage P when door open' behaviour.

What if i open the door while driving and i'm not wearing my seatbelt?
This is not normal operation, please only do it when stopped.
There's a door ajar indicator on your driver dashboard to tell you door is not fully closed. There is no need to physically open the door and check.

someone tested on 3rd April 2018, Press P while moving 5km/h ~ 10km/h. He reported nothing happened.

Battery ok ?

Turn car in ACC mode, radio off, DRL off, headlight off, dome light/cabin light/map light off, dashcam off, phone charger off. Then measure.
Do it in the morning before you start car, when it is usually close to 25°C then can compare with numbers published online, since it's always measured at 25°C.
Apparently anything less than 11.8V is considered as "danger/warning" zone. 11.5V is considered 0% battery level (since need to crank).

Use a multimeter to check. OBD voltage reports are off. Mine showed OBD: 12.0V, but measured 12.38V. Will check with china 12V socket voltmeter+charger see how accurate, soon.

This post has been edited by danthe0: May 15 2018, 09:20 PM

Buy RM45 multimeter, take the head/probe measure red to red, black to black when car is off.
Or buy those 12V socket car chargers with voltage reading. (~RM25ish from taobao/lazada)
Anything lower than 11.8V, means battery gonna die "soon". YMMW.

Can full EV from 0-60 then EV again from 60-90km/h. Example in jam, still can EV.
Energy can also recharge back when you cruising at +1~2 bar Power.
When you can hear the engine while relaxed driving at low speed, reduce pedal very slightly and maintain +1 bar Power to efficiently charge the battery. (1700~1900 rpm)
At 1800~1900 rpm and at +1 bar Power, it's the sweet spot where the battery charges rapidly. Like 1% for every 3-4 seconds vs normal 1300~1600 RPM cruising; 1% for every ~10-12ish seconds.
FC hit at 1400rpm vs 1800rpm is more or less same, ±1.5km/L. When at the sweet spot, it uses less petrol to charge more, and faster.

The FC numbers for normal driving with aircond, is spot on.
Without aircond, can get +4km/L to all FC numbers you mentioned.
100% city driving can go as low at 17km/L though. Depending on traffic and drive with heavy foot.
Oh, also need to specify 80km/h highway or 110km/h highway.
80km/h highway, ~27km/L.
110km/h highway, ... should be about 22~24km/L.

This post has been edited by danthe0: May 27 2018, 02:09 AM

Wasting hybrid battery to charge 12V just for cosmetic purposes during daytime...

Easily 10~30W there.
Enough to power up and keep the transmission in idle.

Which is to say, not a lot but still, energy is wasted.

This post has been edited by danthe0: May 31 2018, 09:03 PM

Been doing that everyday bro only during raining turn on cause windscreen fogging. Only turn on AC during rain... very counterproductive

I... not even same tier as that owner man... link
I average tank only hit 26.1~26.9km/L, Avg time tank duration: 34h, Avg speed per tank 27km/h.
That owner...... 35km/L avg tank, Avg time per tank duration: also 34h, Avg speed per tank 35km/h.
I run 80km/h highway, that owner mainly around city.
That owner is super super patient...

Mute = hold the Source button at steering wheel

Where you see this phrase ?
Maybe it's referring to the shifter ?
But we can't manually "select" and force the car to follow hybrid modes ?