hahaha..

previous owned

dahon vybe d7a
mongoose
trinx ka1606

i thinks thats all. wont buy any bike either in future

That's is cool. But I guess it is difficult Nnot to buy again. The urge to own another different bike is just unresistable.

I also just place an order on my first folding bike. Slightly different from most sifus here. Will keep as secret at the moment and reveal once it reach my doorsteps.

This post has been edited by lazyman@home: Nov 15 2017, 10:16 PM

Tak baik tipu tau.

Its possible to curb the urge to buy more…
Set targets and/or goals.
In my case when I complete a BRM 300 brevet.
That will delays any purchase for a few more years

HAHAHHA...
i will buy if i wanted to, but need to clear some bike. for the time being dont know what bike will make me BUY..

all of my bike perform nicely without any problems. and all of my bike i had done bike fitting to fit me nicely without any problems.

bro sudah dapat beg ke?

sudah.. maybe tomorow i put picture, or at least this sabtuday will share the picture here...

no hurry bro!

Nice. May I know how to do bike fitting on foldie?
Isn't that the adjustment is limited?
Thanks for guide

Bro, when Ur fnhon reach?

Bike fitting on Foldies is even easier! The seat post, head post have huge range for adjustment.

We are not pros, so precise bike fitting is not necessary. But the basic bike fitting is important though. Anyway bike fittings are also limited for irregular physique like me, 'fatty fella'. Long waist, short reach arms with short reach legs, overweight etc.etc. Unless if I am going for a custom bike builder most bike frames in the market are standardized, meaning they cater to the regular mass market.

The basic measurement that you MUST adhere to is,

01) Seat height. Most newbies will ride lower as they are more confident if their legs touch the ground easy but this will tire you fast. Ideal is your knees are just slightly bend when your pedals are at the lowest point. Not straight though as this will be too high. If you see someone's butt is flopping up and down, up and down, to the right to the left ,that means the saddle is too high.

02) Saddle setback. Adjust your saddle front and back until you find your sweet spot. Usually if your knee cap is just slightly in front of the pedal spindle (center in other words) when your pedal is in mid stroke (3 o'clock position). Adjusting this right will avoid your jewels rubbing against the saddle.

03) Handlebar reach. But since folding bike handlebars are adjustable, it's easy. Also some ride foldies for the relaxing manner it can be ridden so I don't think this is important BUT it must not be too near as it will be tiring. It has to stretch out a bit.

I can't get 2 of this on my Giant folding bike and it was a torture riding it. The reach was too near, meaning top tube is too short and also the set back was out. My knees went way way over the pedal spindle even with my saddle pushed to the rear as far as it could. This means the seat tube is too upright. It's sold anyway, cheaply too.

So, check the 3 basic criteria when you are buying a foldie. Folding bikes are for relaxing rides lah, not pro racing. Off course for mtb or road bike, more measurements comes into consideration.

PS/ For condition no.2, you still need a suitable saddle. Wrong saddle still will pain your jewel. Like myself, even Brooks didn't help. Already sold off with the Giant . Maybe jewel too big

This post has been edited by etigge: Nov 17 2017, 10:33 AM

After having one joint pain after another for months, I have a new revelation on bike fitting… fitting is loosely separated into 2 parts. The leg and the posture.
The leg part is as described by sifu ettige, that will improve your power efficiency, prevent joints injury mainly the knee. Generally, when you get your power efficiency, your injury risk will be minimal. The knee-in-front-of-padel is a good general reference, but there are more to just that. Where you position your feet on the pedal also contributes greatly.
The posture part of is where you get into the posture of your choice as comfortable as possible (because cycling never a comfortable activity, it is always painful, no matter what you do). Your choice of upright, bend as low as the front wheel axle for max aero position and everything in between. And there are no such thing as perfect position, you see, UCI never came out with regulation for that…
You can change to longer stem or lowering the headpost to bend further down. Use shorter stem and/or raising the headpost to ride more upright.
In real life if you have a frame too big, to just has to bend further down. When you have a frame too small, just sit taller ler…
I don't have the flexibility of teenagers so I am happy siting with my spine 45~60 degree to the horizon. If you think it's not aero, you go ahead and lower your head below your saddle, I enjoy the air resist to ensure I ride slower.

Me not teenager either. even on my rb i sit quote upright. Less exercise i guess. I cant touch my toes

Thanks a lot for the guide. need some time to digest these info..
Jewel big == good

This post has been edited by lazyman@home: Nov 17 2017, 02:12 PM

*ps, when I mentioned power efficiency, it doesn't mean you can generate tour de France kind of leg power, instead it really mean the power of your pot belly fat convert to your legs power.

been cycling for past 1 year, lose 10kg but pot belly still there....hahahahah

My pot belly has been with me since the beginning of time… will be really uneasy loosing it suddenly…

Bike painting.

The tread seems to be quiet so I will post my activities. I was painting my mtb and there were leftover paints and stuffs so I took out the Bickerton Junction folding bike frame which was lying in the store. Bickerton is actually a British company but contract the frames to Dahon to manufacture. They used to resemble the Eco C7 but on this frame, the frame still resembled the Eco C7 or now called Route. But I think they have contracted the frame manufacturing to Tern nowadays as the folding system is Tern, headtube is Tern and even the RD hanger is Tern's (those used on Tern Link P9s formerly). So, I suspect they can't use Dahon's patented folding systems , so they use their Tern's folding mechanism. Instead of putitng back Bickerton Junction, I turned it back to Dahon.

First, remove paint till bare metal. Don't ever belief that the paint will just flake off and just wash with water. It never happens, I have to use wire brush to scrape off the paint and then sand it down.

Second, spray a layer of etch primer. There are many kinds of primer, epoxy seems to be the best but highly toxic, so instead of buying the appropriate mask (very expensive), I just settle for one part primer.

Third, two coats of base layer which is green in this case.

Fourth, a single layer of crystal or pearl coating. This is a translucent coating which makes the paint changes color from a different angle. My first attempt on my mtb became opaque and lost the effect after too many coatings.

Fifth, wet sand it after dry and apply decals. I printed waterslide paper with my inkjet printer and applied on the frame.

Tomorrow if the weather is good, I will spray 3 layers of high solid extreme clear coat. This is the hardest and the best I can find. It's 2K and it is very glossy and hard on my mtb. I will post a picture of the frame once I spray the clear coating.





First attempt, the pearl coating too many coats. The whole green became blue

Note on primer.
For aluminum alloy, use zinc base primer usually comes in green. Aluminum alloy are more picky with primer.
For Fe (steel stuff) use oxide primer (red or black)
Since epoxy stick to most thing, it's not wrong too.

You can paint anything over primer coat. It's the go between of paint and metal.

I personally believe automobile paint is perfect for bicycle. Just make sure you use the correct primer on alloy frames. But steel frame has no problem la it steel aftrall

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 18 2017, 06:47 PM

Etch Primer is also good on aluminum. Seems OK. Can be used on plastics too.