melaka got many places named with bukit what sifu..bukit katil, bukit beruang,bukit piatu etc ..jokes aside, what i mean with hilly terrain, is most of the roads are filled with uphill and downhill and really not much section of flats. so it's definitely not as your per definition of those major bukits. i guess that sort of bukit that i did ride is during my audax last month (bukit tangga, kuala klawang and bukit putus), but it's still probably still a bit tame compared your definition. so is it doable with a heavier wheelset? of course! but it'll certainly drain my fuel faster than the lighter one.

seriously, i did not really put too much attention about the whole bike weight. but for me, i do noticed the difference in the pedalling effort in the reduced weight of the moving parts, even if it's a few hundred grams apart. my rt and litepro wheelset are around the same weight, but i do find that i need a little more effort to pedal the litepros due to the heavier tyres that i put it on with. and yes, i totally agree with you with the hi profile wheelset. it does makes a difference on the flats, no dispute, but luckily i still find that my current rt wheelset is still adequate enough to follow the fast ploton. never follow a ploton of fast rb, but the current group that i ride contains of some mtb podium riders, with normal average speed is around 27-30kmh, and they hardly choose flat roads. always cari bukit one. so i guess, we choose what suit us best? with your superior fitness level, i guess whatever bike or wheelset oso no hassle. mr kenc probably prefer the heavier setup, because heavy bikes burns more calories. every setup might cater different needs for different person. if our fitness is the same, i guess whatever bike oso doesnt matter. unfortunately, your fitness is something that we can all only envy la sifu .

This post has been edited by fatani: May 8 2018, 02:52 AM

ha ha..true that

i once puncture the panaracer minits lite, with something hitting the sidewall. That's the one and only puncture that i had with that tyre, and instead of just replacing the tube, i had to replace the tyre as well. ..lesson learnt. so during my audax, i had to strap an extra tyre to my frame, just in case. having said that, i still love em, the light and lower rolling resistance pana. manage to achieve of 65kmh during the kuala klawang downhill with the combination of rt wheelset and pana tyres. woohoo..felt good mang.. . my dahon stock tyres is already swelling at the sidewall, but i think i'll just get a marathon plus for replacement later. two different bikes for two different purpose.

Climb climb climb

+999

BIKE FITTING REALLY IS A TIME CONSUMING PROCESS, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU DECIDED TO DIY.

I recently switch to a dropbar for my cap ayam bike. So, once you change a part to your existing frame, means that you'll mess up your previous riding geometry as well. At first, the fitting was done at my LBS, all in all i was quite ok with it, since the riding position was set up for comfy, which means it was an upright position. However, when i got home, and saw the video of me riding it, i wasn't quite satisfied with the outcome. I could not fully use the drop without having my back curled. So, i decided to diy my fitting. It all started with changing the stem. From 50mm to 70mm to 100mm 17°. Still curling at my backside, like a turtle.

Then i tried a bike fitting app. Paid rm20 for it. Didnt exactly help much, but it did give advice on what im suppose to adjust, though the measurement is not really helpful, since that app was made for rb fitting. But, nonetheless, i got the message. I started experimenting with the saddle position and the seat height. The ride position improve, but it's still not perfect.


Searching online,i finally stumbled upon a website where it can measure your body angle either from a video or a photo. What a great help it was. I finally achieved a much better backside. Yess!

Photos :
(Top Left) a reference of what im trying to achieve
(Top Right) 100mm 17° without adjusting saddle and seatpost.
(Bottom Left) 100mm 17° after saddle and seatpost adjustment.
(Bottom right) I flipped the stem!! and look at how much difference it made to my backside. And i think i got closer to what im trying to achieve (top left photo)..Woohoo!

It really is impressive to know even minor adjustment to your bike can affect your riding position so much.

Now, only thing left to do is to test ride it on the road and see if there are still adjustments that needs to be made. *feeling anxious*

This post has been edited by fatani: Jun 17 2018, 02:00 AM

Wah wah.. i didnt mentioned the web eh? Sorry2.

www.obstri.com

The best thing is, it's free! Hee hee. Have fun guys!

Just to share a bit of experience, even though you guys might get a good riding angle on the web, you still need to test it out riding the bike. I tested mine on the roller, and after a while, i started to feel pain on my shoulder and my lower back, which indicates that the stem is probably too long. You have to take account on how much your elbow is bent becoz that will determine how relaxed your shoulder will be.

I switched back to shorter stem and adjust the fore aft of the saddle to get a better angle of my wrist-shoulder-hip. Recommended angle is 90°. Hip-knee-ankle should be around 25-30°, but some fitter recommended 33-48° which i find more comfortable for higher cadence pedalling.

50mm 5° stem.

In the drop and on the hood. My shoulder is more relaxed and the aero position isnt too bad.

This post has been edited by fatani: Jun 19 2018, 03:27 PM

Agreed. finally got the chance to test ride it today. My shoulder is fine, no pain, comfortable, but my back is still suffering. Now scratching my head thinking of what more i need to adjust, or whether it was due to my body still not getting used to the new riding posture. Got a bit knee pain ( front area), but i think by setting up the seat height and cleat would probably fix the issue. What trouble me is the backache prob. Im already on the shortest stem. Fening

a lil bit upper than lower back. yeap, i already shortened the length of the seatpost and tilt the saddle a lil bit. man, it's kinda upright now. i guess i couldnt make my riding position more agressive anymore, due to the seat height is almost level with the handlebar. just have to make do with endurance style fitting..haha.. havent got the chance to test ride yet.

rb jugak la nnt kan.

This post has been edited by fatani: Jun 27 2018, 10:11 PM

Revisiting the dragon.

U sure? The replacement is going to cost you a lot more than the price of ur bike

change freehub jer. settle. hehe. my friend did just that on his deca wheelset.

was about to reply until i saw your respond. here all small wheel discussion, not 700c.

The main reason i bought the speed sensor, is to use it with roller. Im lucky so far i never encounter with the lost gps signal issue, even when offroading.

Nowadays, the only numbers that i put my sight most during riding, is cadence and heart rate. Average speed, yeah, once in a while. Those cadence and heart rate datas will dictate my choice gearing. And, yeah, on the contrast of my earlier cycling days, i use em all now, those gears, whenever possible. So i guess i migrated from a grinder to a spinner now. Heeeheee

Careful bro. Overshooting your heart rate is not good for your heart muscle.

the nice guy that belanja my lunch during my audax, collapsed on his ride less than a month later. same issue. never had the chance to pay his good courtesy. he was an active cyclist and a randonneur. i think his name is Victor Wong. The Bukit Mertajam Audax was dedicated to him. his cycling buddy were with him that time. there's a long post of infos that he shared from IJN of what caused such incidents to athletes/cyclist etc. need to dig out his fb posts.

btw, i got infos about heart rate from a doctor which is also a cycling buddy. long story short, don't hi revs too much.

yes, for most people, 220-age is a good guide. although it's not absolutely accurate, it's good enough for the general population. factors like genetics, heart conditions etc may caused max heart rate differs from person to person.

normally, Stress Test is used to get the accurate max heart rate data.

compared to java, brompton is not that light either.

opt for the B clones if you want it cheaper, much cheaper. still compact folds like the B. but of course lah, less prestige than the B, and you cannot brag about it.

but, if u still the desire the Brommie,which is nothing wrong with it, without paying cash, there's only 3 options left (loans):

1. credit card (interest free payment), but your cc limit should be at least 7k, or above. u want the titanium frame, prepare 5 figures.
2. aeon credit
3. personal loan

or

Along.

basically im repeating what bujal has already replied to you.

Seems the lad already set his mind on the brommie.. He only need financial source, not other bikes remmendation. Let's hope he'll be successful in his financial aim and enjoy his dream bike .