Indeed it runs like hell. I have removed the spacer last weekend and no rubbing since then. I thought of testing till end of week and report back.

Thanks for the feedback and solution.
Also, anyone here installed a subframe braces before?
Do they serve any purpose?

I'm getting a front struts tower bar first when I get the chance.

The most you could go with chance of rubbing or full lock steering is 205 series tyres.
It is to increase rigidity your torsion beam suspension, making it flex/sway less (decreased bodyroll) during hard turns but mind you it will be bumpier across the vehicle as the balance is spread throughout the rear.

Ultra Racing has 2 types of these bars. One for roll reduction (solid bar) and another to rigidify your torsion beam (hollowed bar, with multiple install points). These thai-made "subframes" are usually milled aluminium (less rigid, tendency to crack is higher) and served a similar purpose, but it is more fancier with lesser function. It is more for cars with multi-link suspension (Persona, Preve, Wira, Civic etc).

Yeah you should. It's pretty cold to me at 30% even. I always turn it down after getting the right temp.

You ever driven the older model Vios? Our CVT compared to the old 4-speed is a huge difference in terms of initial acceleration.
Old Vios only need a little bit of tap to accelerate but for CVT it needs more (tuned for fuel saving).
That might be why you press the throttle more for it to go from 0KMH thus affecting your FC.

But ours is a lot more fuel efficient in non-spirited driving cos 80KMH is only like 1,700 RPM when the older one is 2,000RPM (more cycles means more fuel burning).

Looking into the above comments, if 350km = half tank is not a good FC, then frick! My car is much worse. Mine full tank can only go far max 500km, sometimes 450km.

That means 500km/32L = 15.6 km. Yours is like 350km/16L = 21.9km/L!
How do you do that?

Just did my first car battery replacement exactly 2 years. The battery did not 'kong', just that my Start/Stop is sluggish AF.

To Sifu, how do you know when to change tyres?
Is it good to change whole at once or 2 by 2?

May i know how much is the cost for the battery replacement? And u use 3rd party e.g bateriku.com or changed it at SC? Mine now 2 year same as u. I did service 40k in sc and sa mention the battery is in bad condition now. 

SC selling Rm260 Toyota brand MF battery
I use NS60 Century Rm120 non MF battery

Wow! I want to use the green one by bateriku.com =rm230 if not mistaken MF type

Today just change battery..
Seller keep pushing his NS60 for my vios..
Total damage RM135

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At the moment, I'll stick to my 195 and utilize it until the next change.

So far when I searched online, there are 2 types of 'safety' bar.
1. Anti roll bar
2. Rear tower strut bar.

I believed the one u mentioned with hollowed bar is the rear strut bar.


Just wanted to know more feedback on which is the best choice for the rear.

Thank you all for advice and feedback.


That boot bar is more for racing than day to day. What I mentioned are these:

Thanks so much for your advise.

r u always drive with eco indicator on?

That boot bar is more for racing than day to day. What I mentioned are these:

U mean Amazon battery?

Not really. I vroom2 more during the morning commute. But on longer stretched roads, I usually gradually accelerate thus ECO indicator will on.

Mind you the eco indicator is only an indicator and it does nothing. What it calculates is your throttle input (RPM + speed).

Thanks. I know that the ECO light only for indicator purpose.

However, is tyre pressure and petrol brand affect FC?
Usually my tyre pressure in 220kpa front n rear and using Petronxs since got 8% rebate during weekend.
I personally prefer Shel actually.lol.

Guys if I need to change battery and I decide to do it outside, it wouldn't affect warranty for the car right?  Or I need to let Toyota change my battery?

c) Battery

During the first 12 months from date of first registration or 20,000 km travelled, whichever occurs first, a defective original equipment battery supplied will be replaced free of charge.

d) Tyres

Tyres are warranted under a separate warranty provided by the tyre manufacturer. Kindly refer to us for details.


e) The replacement of normal maintenance parts such as spark plug, distributor points, drive belts (including air-cond belts), wiper blades, brake lining and pads, lamp bulbs, fuses, filters, refrigerant, receiver drier, lubricants and fluid are not covered, when they are replaced as maintenance service ordinarily required with vehicle use, except in cases where these parts are replaced as a result of clearly discernible defect in material or workmanship.

f) Parts and components in below categories including but not limited to the following:

    Engine system

    - oil seals, hoses, tubes, clamps, clips, core plugs, tensioners, timing belts, bearings and engine mountings. (unless replacement of any parts covered under warranty).
    Drive train/Transmission system

    - drive shaft boots, clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearings, clutch disc & plates, brake bands, all pipes, hoses and filters.
    Brake system

    - brake pads, brake shoes, brake drums and brake discs (unless replacement of any parts covered under warranty).
    Electrical system

    - fuses and lamp bulbs

Tyre, breakpad, lightbulbs, battery and exhaust (muffler + piping after 1 year) are separate from the warranty and thus won't affect anything.

Wah.. seems a lot parts not cover by 5 years warranty 😲😲