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 Chubby Hamsters V4, Fun little furballs

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TScrazymouse_yyh
post Feb 27 2007, 08:35 PM, updated 19y ago

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^^ HAMSTERS ^^

Old thread http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/348425

A hamster is a rodent belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. There are 5 types of hamsters, mainly the Syrian, Winter white dwarf, Russian campbell dwarf, Chinese hamsters and Roborovski hamsters.

SPECIES:

Syrians (Mesocricetus auratus)
They are the best known species in the pet industry. Syrians are also known as Golden Hamsters. Syrians are known as fancy hamsters of all the hamster species since they come in many colour varieties and also coat varieties... some can have long fur and some short fur, which we normally call Long Hairs and Short Hairs... also there is a fur type known as Rex.

The most important rule about Syrians is that they are SOLITARY... never house 2 together. If breeding, there is a way where you must put the female into the male's cage only when the female is on heat. It is very risky and dangerous to house 2 syrians together at any time since they are very well known to fight till death. So if you treasure the life of your hamster, never put 2 syrians together.

Syrians are large and comfortable to hold. They do make suitable pets for children but under adult supervision.

Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
Campbells are probably the most popular of all dwarf hamsters since they come in many colour varieties that makes them attractive. The look similar to Winter White hamsters but they are actually different subspecies. So never mixbreed them.

Campbells are dwarfs... well, small hamsters. Please do not be fooled by petshops telling you mini hamsters and giving you a weird price. Anyway, they come in different colour and patterns but to breed, one must understand that hamsters that have any white spots or markings must never be bred together coz it can produce eyeless or teethless hamsters that die later... so if you were to breed, please read up.

These dwarfs may not be suitable for young children due to some dwarfs are bitey... and because of their small size, it would be harder for children to handle. Campbells are not aggressive biters, it is just that sometimes they will bite when you make them angry or startle them from their sleep.

Winter White Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
WW are hamsters that can change their coat colour when we minimise their daylight. Their coats will change from their normal colours to a white coat but with their dorsal stripe and side arches visible. WW come in 3 colours, which are Agouti, Sapphire and Pearl. The Pearl do not change their coat colour at all, they remain in their white coat colour for life.

WW are different from Campbells, their eyes are bigger, fur is thicker, body is more bullet shape and their ears are less conspicious. It is easy to see the difference if a Campbell and WW were side by side.

WWs are nicer to handle for they have better temperments than Campbells. WW rarely change into their winter coats in captivity, so do not force your hamster to starve and stay in a cold room... this depends on the hamster whether it wants to change or not.

Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii)
Robos are the smallest species of hamster. Adult Robos are only 2 inches in lenght. Unlike the other dwarfs, Robos do not have a dorsal stripe and they have slightly longer legs. Easy to identify from the size and also its sandy colour and white belly.

Yes, the smallest and also the fastest, this species is very well known for being very fast and active. So they are not very handle friendly since they are likely to jump or run off your palm. Many are really attracted by the facial markings, they appear to have "eyebrows".

Robos enjoy sand baths and a wheel. Due to their small size, one would need to purchase a glass/plastic tank to house them or purchase cages with small bars like the Habitrail Mini...

Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus)
The Chinese hamster is known for their mousy looks. Yes, they were discovered in China long ago. Many people would say Chinese hamsters are hard to breed in captivity and are difficult to raise. Fighting problems occur so it is best to house them seperately. The Chinese hamster is also referred to as a "mouse-like" hamster because of its short nose, thin body, stocky legs and longer tail.

They do make great pets if they are bred by a proper breeder and have been handled often when young.


VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

- Most hamsters do very well alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed but Syrians, Campbells, Winter Whites and Chinese hamsters are best kept on their own. They are always happier that way.

- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so.

- Hamster fights are never fun to watch.

- Always remember to have food and water available. Never give too much fresh foods.

- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.

- Syrians need wheels that are about 8 inches in diameter.

- NEVER keep different species in 1 cage or tank together... BIG big trouble there, may have some injuries, deaths... and possibility of mixbreeding Campbells with WW... bad idea.

- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not feel Love or have emotional feelings like humans. So there really is no reason to breed them unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.

- Hamsters can get sick easily if given too much fresh foods like fruits and vegetables.



Anything to add in the 1st page, just PM me.


Added on February 26, 2007, 1:56 amPictures of the different hamster species with some example of a few colour varieties.

user posted image

Thank you to Reanne and |sorcerer| for their chinese hamsters and roborovski pictures.

One way to hold a hamster if it bites or to look at it's genital area clearly. Never do this for long since it is a bit uncomfortable for the hamster. Only for a short period.
user posted image

______________________________________________________________________________

Useful links (credit to Acey)The Hamster Name Generator (thanks to Gazard7)

(credit to suicidalxbliss)
user posted image

Lowyat.net Siggy (free to use, a big thank you to Hao tongue.gif ):
user posted image


Added on February 26, 2007, 9:25 pmA Basic Guide

* Hamsters are very active creatures so they do need their excercise. Naturally energetic, hamster love to run so it is best to provide a good solid wheel for them. Makre sure it is a solid wheel and not those mesh wheels since those gaps can cause injuries. Syrians should have 8 inch diameter wheels while dwarfs can have smaller ones.

* Hamsters are nocturnal, meaning they are mostly active at night. During the day, they would need some peace and quiet to sleep so it is highly recommended to place the cage or tank away from direct sunlight and provide them with a hide such as a clay flower pot or aroma burner or any solid looking hamster houses available at petshops.

* Hamsters need a layer of quality bedding in their tanks. You can always get the wood shaving variety but you would need to change the bedding often. Recommended brands would be Chipsi Classic, Chipsi Super, Delikate and Kaytee. Avoid using other brands for pine and cedar wood can cause breathing problems later in life due to the phenol oils produced by the wood. One can also use corncob bedding, wood pellets like Woody Pet or Careline wood cat litter or recycled paper bedding/litter like CareFresh or Breeder's Select/Celect.

* Hamsters love to nibble on hay and also build nest in their hide box for comfort. So providing a bit of hay is good. Any hay is suitable, as long it is fresh looking(greenish). Avoid stale hay(brownish).

* Hamsters should have a good amount of food in their food bowls. You do not need to worry about hamsters not finishing their food for they will hoard away old food to eat later. Make sure fresh foods are cleaned out of the cage or tank after 24 hours.
- Good source of fiber would be broccoli, spinach, sawi(choy sum), kangkung and water cress. Do feed fresh foods in moderation since too much can cause wet tail sickness and indigestion. A small piece of vegie or fruit is enough for 1 day.
- Sweet potato and normal potato can be given but only give cooked potatos.
- Sweet fruits and carrots can be given in small quantities every few days.
- Hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, cooked chicken and cooked fish can be fed.

* Have a good quality bottle for water at hand. Cheap bottles tend to leak.

* Wash the hamster cage or tank once in a week. Just wash with some mild soapy water. Clean cages and tanks prevents the risk of getting infections.

* Hamsters do not need to bath with water and soap like humans. Hamsters can clean themselves very well and they enjoy having sand baths (Chincilla or hamster sandbath) more than getting wet. A wet hamster can fall sick easily.

* Handle your hamster daily. Build a relationship with your hamster. You can hold them, talk to them and pat them. These little gestures will keep your hamster tame and friendly and of course, happy.

* Never wake up sleeping hamsters since they can startle easily and give a nasty bite to protect themselves. This is an instinct reaction so do not blame a hamster for being aggressive... they bite when there is a reason to bite.

* Always wash your hands after handling hamsters for they are still from the rodent family. Keep your self healthy for your hamster smile.gif


Added on February 26, 2007, 11:44 pmPictures of LYN members' tank setups:
user posted image

Pictures of suitable cages available in the market
user posted image


Added on February 27, 2007, 8:41 pmFor the 1st page, please post important or useful info of hamsters. You can also post pictures of your cage setups as an example. I will delete those that are just spam to make the 1st page clean and easy to read for new hamster owners.

Updated pictures of LYN member's hamster housings.
Attached Image
picture from dj.eRicZzz


QUOTE(bizen @ May 30 2007, 05:26 PM)
blink.gif  I found some articles and 1 of it is about hamsters... I bought it a few years back when I am still in high school  laugh.gif ... and I would like to share it with everyone here  tongue.gif 

Here is the link:

Hamster Guide 01

Hamster Guide 02

Hamster Guide 03

Hamster Guide 04

Have fun reading  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: May 30 2007, 08:52 PM
dazzle
post Feb 27 2007, 08:51 PM

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well done, good arrangement and very clear to the new member.

good job.

Please look on my latest update Hamster Cage.

I just bought the hideout for my hamster.

[attachmentid=198672][attachmentid=198673]

look at my baby, he sleep so sweet.[attachmentid=198676]
kembara
post Feb 27 2007, 09:23 PM

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congratulation hun for the new thread...long live hamsters...
congrats also for the very good new modified first page...
now newbies no need to ask and repeated same question la heheh smile.gif
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Feb 27 2007, 09:29 PM

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Haha... took me 2 days to compose all that... coz all own words and LYN pics... so no need take stuff from the net.

Anyway, I will update with Identifying the sex of hamsters and also something brief on breeding DOs and DON'Ts....

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Updated!

QUOTE(Reanne @ Apr 9 2007, 04:46 AM)
Steps when your ham has just given birth.

1) Put them in a quiet place of the house.
2) Do not disturb them except for refilling food and water.
3) Do not change the bedding no matter how smelly it is for the next 21 to 24 days.
4) Remove the male. If not you'll have another batch of pink wriggly things in approximately 20 days.
5) Add protein rich supplements such as:-

-Fresh veggies -> Broccoli, alfalfa sprouts, carrots, watercress, choy sum etc. Make sure washed well. Avoid onions, garlic.

-Fresh fruits -> Apple, banana, papaya, honeydew, pear, mango etc. Do not give avocado and citrus fruits.

-Other protein rich stuff -> Wheatgerm, japanese soft tofu, hard boiled egg white, crickets, mealworms etc. Do not give milo or anything containing cocoa.

6) DO NOT TOUCH THE BABIES. If you really want to peek, wait for at least 3 - 4 days, then use the end of a pencil or brush, rub it in the bedding before gently prying a little to see the pinkies.

Reasons to why most or all the babies do not survive or disappear.

1) The mom feels that she does not have enough nutrition to suckle so many babies. She will cull the weakest one first.

2) The mom feels scared or threatened, so her instinct tells her to cull the babies so that she will have the nutrition and get away in order to be able to have another batch of babies in the near future instead of just leaving the babies to the predator/threat. In the wild, if she thinks that the predator is so darn near and gonna eat her any minute, she'll make a run for it. Leaving the babies without a choice.

But as pets, they don't have that option.

3) The baby is sick/injured and/or dying. She will instinctively kill it so that it hasn't a chance to pass whatever that made it sick if it's an infectious disease, and/or eat it to regain lost nutrition.

NOTE: If the baby dies, most ham mothers WILL eat their babies because if she just leaves it, the stench of rotting flesh will attract unwanted company.

4) She's not a good mom. Though most hams are good mothers, there are bound to be a few that will not suckle their babies and probably just step on them a lot. This will need extra attention to spot so that the unattended pups can be given to a foster mother.

Do not confuse this behaviour when seen in the first few hours after birth. It's normal, especially for first time moms, to ignore their pups for the first few hours. Just leave them be and they will usually know what to do.

A few clear rules

1) All pregnant females should be given their own cage each to nurse and have the pups grow. Do ensure there is enough room for them to exercise and run about.

2) DO NOT KEEP A PAIR TOGETHER FOR THE SAKE OF HAVING A PARTNER. A single sex pair is sufficient for that purpose.

3) Syrian hamster matings MUST be supervised. Syrians are SOLITARY, meaning they cannot live together.

4) Do not breed if possible. Breeding is not a FUN thing for them. It's a burden that will shorten their lifespan, nothing more.
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Apr 9 2007, 04:27 PM
kembara
post Feb 27 2007, 09:31 PM

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hun, did your winter white pee in they food bowl??
my ww clan- bucky and two female agouti- always did it..almost everyday...it is a habit or an abnormal thing for them..for now i take out the bowl la..only tabur the food in bedding..it is ok??
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Feb 27 2007, 09:38 PM

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No, none of my hamsters pee in their bowls. Maybe you should change a new bowl and see if it happens again or not. If they do not pee in the new bowl means their old bowl smells more like a toilet to them.
kembara
post Feb 27 2007, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(crazymouse_yyh @ Feb 27 2007, 10:38 PM)
No, none of my hamsters pee in their bowls. Maybe you should change a new bowl and see if it happens again or not. If they do not pee in the new bowl means their old bowl smells more like a toilet to them.
*
hehehehe laugh.gif
sound like i kena perli la huhuhu tongue.gif
btw i will try ur method aaa..thanks..
the_catacombs
post Feb 27 2007, 09:51 PM

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boing boing boing... hamster thread v4 adi... nice nice...

saw my cage setup there... haha... that was my temporary setup la... now my setup different liao lo...
kembara
post Feb 27 2007, 09:54 PM

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nevermind la catacomb..crazymouse had made you popular now aa..thanks la to her..
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Feb 27 2007, 09:55 PM

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Do post more pictures of setups, it would be nice to let people or newbies see them. Anyway, post more information or good links or caresheets that you guys can find.
kembara
post Feb 27 2007, 09:57 PM

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heheh looks like sifu ask us to did some job la...hehehe
but i want to offline now..see yaa...
chibi_tenko
post Feb 27 2007, 10:02 PM

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Although it's been many many years since I last kept hamsters, it still pains me when they die frm diarrhea. I guess I feed them too much fruits. (T_T) I miss my Burger-chai and Pip-chai...

I could've saved them from death if I've known of LYN's existence back then. Sad sad...

This post has been edited by chibi_tenko: Feb 27 2007, 10:04 PM
BlueHeng
post Feb 27 2007, 10:24 PM

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Hey crazymouse.. I'm in the middle of writing a summary of common hamster diseases complete with references online (so I'm not plagarising.. just summarizing). No one is currently doing that right? Don't want my efforts wasted.
Reanne
post Feb 27 2007, 10:27 PM

Elite is only a tag. So don't PM me to delete ur post.
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OK! Bedding Reviews!

Bedding reviews

- Any beddings that contain raw percentage of phenols will not be reviewed here as I do not recommend them at all. If anyone's wondering, phenols are hydrocarbons that are released by softwoods such as pine and cedar that can promote liver, lung and intestinal problems when housed on. Pets such as hamsters, rats and gerbils can be severely affected by such hydrocarbons in a very short amount of time due to their high-metabolism and oxygen intake.

If you find it hard to imagine, then take disinfectant or lysol, drench a cloth with it, then sleep on it. This is exactly what's happening to your beloved pet. The germicidal properties from disinfectant is commercially extracted from pine and cedar sap. Imagine what it can do to their sensitive lungs and liver.

- Absorbency > To rate how good the absorption and odour control is.
- Cleanliness > To rate whether it's messy or neat.
- Dust content > To rate whether the dust content is high or low. A higher rating means lower dust content.
- Appearance > To rate whether it looks presentable, dull or just plain ugly.
- Advantages > Self explanatory.
- Disadvantages > Self explanatory.
- Status > Comments and recommendation.


10 = A must try
9 = Very good
8 = Quite good
7 = Good
6 = Okay
5 = Satisfactory
4 = Not so good
3 = Not good
2 = BAD
1 = Caution. Try at own risk.
0 = You have been warned

Kaytee

Aspen
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 6
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Economical, does not contain phenols(safe), good for building nests.
- Disadvantages > A little dusty, absorbency is rather average and due to absence of phenols, inspection for any mites is advised before purchase.
- Status > Neutral

Pine
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 6
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 6
- Advantages > Economical, contains minimal phenols due to being kiln-dried.
- Disadvantages > Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Kaykob
- Absorbency > 4
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > No phenols(safe).
- Disadvantages > Will turn moldy when exposed to humidity or when not changed regularly. Can attract mites. Can be very noisy when dug into due to it hitting the tank walls.
- Status > Recommended for low-urine producing pets. eg. Gerbils.

Chloropyhll pine

- Absorbency > 7
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 7 (I like the appearance)
- Advantages > Minimum phenols due to being kiln-dried. Absorbency slightly better than the regular Kaytee pine.
- Disadvantages > Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Breeder Celect & B2N (Back2Nature)

- Absorbency > 8
- Cleanliness > 9
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 5
- Advantages > Clean and neat. No phenols at all. Enviromentally friendly (Made from recycled newspaper) Good absorbency. Easy to clean.
- Disadvantages > More expensive. Dull appearance.
- Status > Recommended

Woody Pet wood pellets

- Absorbency > 10
- Cleanliness > 8
- Dust content > 8
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Very good absorption.
- Disadvantages > Rather heavy due to high compression. Quite hard, but can be seasoned by sprinkling water introducing pet. Strong woody smell.
- Status > Recommended for high ammonia producing pets. eg. Syrian hamsters, hedgehogs, guinea pigs, rabbits, stinky male sugar gliders.

Sluis comfort bedding

- Absorbency > 5
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 1
- Appearance > 3
- Advantages > I don't see any.
- Disadvantages > Extremely dusty. I had trouble breathing when i used it.
- Status > Not recommended.

This post has been edited by Reanne: Mar 20 2007, 11:40 PM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Feb 27 2007, 10:31 PM

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Do whatever you guys can. Yah, no one doing anything yet so you guys can go right ahead. Reviews, anything lah. It'll be beneficial for everyone heheheh....
Syrian
post Feb 27 2007, 11:19 PM

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whao .. thread 4 is opened .. cool . thumbup.gif
BlueHeng
post Feb 27 2007, 11:55 PM

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Summary of Common Hamster Diseases v0.1
Red Bolded- It is most recommended that you consult your vet unless your 100% sure of the situation.
****- Partially incomplete. Please PM me if you do have extra information including the source of where you took your information from.

Wet Tail (Proliferative ileitis)
Commonly mistaken and thought to be diarrhea. It affects mostly hamsters which are weaning (3-6 weeks old). The specific pathogen for this disease is still uncertain. Without immediate treatment a hamster may only survive up to 48 hours after signs of symptoms.
Symptoms: Obviously, wet tail.. caused by the discharge from the anus. A foul smell will be present. Other symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, messy coat/fur, dull eyes and hunched posture.
Treatment: Consult a vet ASAP for antibiotics, anti-diarrhea, and fluid replacement remedies. (Common treatments for wet tail are Baytril (enrofloxacin) or Neomycin (never more than 10mg/ kg because of sensitivity) with metronidazole (Flagyl, 0.1% in drinking water) and Kaopectate (1-2 ml PO). Also keep a 50/50 solution of Pedialyte and water available for your hamster. Use of an over the counter medicine, such as Dri-Tail, only masks the symptoms. It will not cure your hamster. These antibiotics are too weak to kill the bacteria.)


Diarrhea

May be caused by pathogens or overfeeding with fresh foods. (That's why crazymouse always say not too much. Hahaha) Your pet however, will not suffer from loss of appetite or lower activeness in most situations. Dehydration however, is the main concern.
Symptoms: Somewhat similar to wet tail but it is not as severe.
Treatment: Consult a vet and you will be given antibiotics. (not sure which because can't find it anywhere)****


Skin Diseases

Commonly caused by mites.
Symptoms: Excessive scratching by hamster, flakiness or redness in the skin.
Treatment: Consult a vet. ****


Abscesses

Most often caused by bite wounds from fighting. Sharp edges of certain food can also contribute to this problem in their cheek pouch. This is rather rare however. The build up of pus under the wounded skin.
Symptoms: Lump under their skin.
Treatment: Require veterinary attention for draining, flushing, and treatment with antibiotics.


Diabetes

Most commonly seen in Dwarf Russian Campbell but can also affect other species.
Symptoms: Hamsters that develop diabetes will show symptoms of excessive drinking, excessive urinating and wasting. Other symptoms may include low body temperature, shaking and trembling and at worst a comatose state.
Treatment: Pedialyte solution in the water bottle recommended by the vets.


Teeth Problems

All rodents have front teeth (incisor) which keeps growing until they reach the end of their life. That's why you see your hamster(s) gnawing and chewing on things all the time. This is to 'file' their teeth to make sure it is not too long. However, the main factor from preventing overgrowth is the wear caused by upper and lower incisors. Teeth problems can be caused by abscess or malnutrition which leads to misalignment of either of the incisors.
Symptoms: Lack of appetite and drooling. Weight loss and foul odor from the mouth
Treatment: Vet will trim the overgrown incisors and extract them. Antibiotics.


Trauma

Caused by accidents due to mishandling which can lead to broken bones or other injuries.


Sources
http://www.petwebsite.com/hamsters/hamster_diabetes.htm
http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/small_p...es_general.html
http://www.simplepetcare.com/pet-diseases/10/HAMSTER/
http://www.boomspeed.com/critterbarn/Diseaseshamster.html
http://www.hamsterific.com/HamsterUniversi...rUniversity.cfm
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/hamsters/a/hamsterhealth.htm


-to be continued. Will update asap. Hopefully this will be sufficient for the moment-

This post has been edited by BlueHeng: Feb 28 2007, 12:00 AM
the_catacombs
post Feb 28 2007, 12:04 AM

8 stars wooo....
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my previous cage setup before they are separated....

user posted image

user posted image

sweat.gif sweat.gif
i know the setup got abit problem la... that time still learning mah...
joanalooidog
post Feb 28 2007, 08:54 AM

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woah, got pringles as treats for syrian ah.......not bad not bad, haha.............
kembara
post Feb 28 2007, 09:45 AM

dinobots, maximize!!
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hahah...i think not for them la...
catacomb only give the empty can after finishing the treat him/herself

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