So, here's what I've done, then gave up on but it semi-works without replacing anything in the car.
I was mainly aiming to polish sheit into bronze, not shiet into gold, so it kinda works.
Do note, this is not the conventional way to get better sound quality.
This is figuratively shoving a square into a circle and you get squared circles, or rounded squares. Whatever.
Point is, am forcing stock speakers to behave like other speakers.

Equipment Used:
Phone [3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX to RCA] MiniDSP [RCA to 3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX] BT Transmitter [Bluetooth] -> [Bluetooth] Head Unit
Those who see the hardware and roughly know what I'm trying to do with the hardware above, just skip cause you already know it won't work proper. 

Pros:
80% match my reference (AFTER a little +1/2dB EQ bump with phone *sigh*)
Head unit saves volume profile across Sources (AM/FM1/FM2/BT) so can safely change source without changing volume.
Cost??Maybe?? (I haven't scouted the price of amplifier+crossovered tweeters+installation yet  )
BT takes over "Media Audio" profile only. You still can route phone calls to phone.
Blind test puts a smile on your face on how much improvement it got compared to stock... then you cross check with your reference... and    but keep at it  , it'll shine abit more, then you'll realise you've hit that limit and continue

Cons:
Soundstage/imaging located at top part of steering wheel which still sucks. Probably due to lack of tweeter/front speaker. Need hardware upgrade to fix which may void warranty (idk) and fork out more $$$.
Startup procedure is pain in the ass due to old ass bluetooth version pairing, but mainly because Honda Malaysia skimped on a <RM2 AUX connector for god knows what reason 
-Power up car > Turn on BT Device > on the HU, go to Bluetooth Audio > Settings > Connect Bluetooth Audio > Select BT device > on BT device, Trigger Rejoin procedure > immediately on HU click Connect icon > Exit main screen
Can't control Previous/Next track due to 3.5mm AUX.
Still need to tune with phone equaliser. (may be avoided, just need to spend extra few more hours or so)
Noise from BT transmitter can be heard at quiet parts of the song. Hissssssss. Like those AUX to FM transmitter noise. (This is gain-staging problem, MiniDSP mainly cuts dB to match house curve. You can try set Bass -5 on HU to so MiniDSP doesn't reduce gains so much, just an idea.)
Uses 2 USB ports to power MiniDSP and BT Transmitter. So you probably need a 12V to 3x/4x USB and a good quality or modern one. (1x charge phone + 1x dashcam)
--If you cheap out on 12V to USB socket (ones that use cheapo 50sen MC34063 ICs), both, BT transmitter and MiniDSP will cause a lot of noise.
----To fix BT transmitter noise, you can solder extra SMD 50V 10nF+10uF+10uF (space constraint) on BOTH input and output side tank capacitors. Solder them between the through hole electro cap legs. --BT transmitter has internal battery (most have it at least), so it will draw a light load current from the regulator, thus no noise. MiniDSP pulls too much current and it screeches.
Wires. Dem freaking wires everywhere. 2 AUX + 2 USB going from 12V to armrest.
Can't cast because casting forces audio routing to end device. (I think?) That means no 'Waze on the big screen'. Boo hoo.
No album art info & display. But FL HU already don't work proper ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Total damage:
USD $105 MiniDSP DSP hardware
USD $10 MiniDSP DSP software
USD $75 UMIK-1 calibrated mic (optional, you can do it by ear if you trust yourself, or you can do it the old way, RTA/ear+pink noise)
~RM9 3.5mm -> RCA
~RM0/RM9 RCA -> 3.5mm (BT Transmitter should provide it)
RM60/140 Bluetooth transmitter (~RM60 if you can wait for 1 month shipping from China, ~RM140 ship in 3 days)
RM??? 12V to 3/4 port USB charger. (Had one lying around, since 6 years ago. In the car. Under the sun. It didn't explode. Yet.)
Lots and lots of reading and trying to understand and actually doing by experimenting and failing.
Time.
Fuel because A/C due to Weather hot and humid AF, everytime, everyday.

Quick Overview:


That just about sums it up.

So the FL jazz wont show blue radiator when start in the morning? Correct?

Hi sir, thank you for great info! 😊

So just want to double confirm, mine is Honda Jazz 1.5 GK5 model 2014 (not the latest 2017 FL model) and my Jazz is normal AT, not CVT. Also can use this HCF-2 CVT Fluid?

Any hybrid FL / DCT owners experiencing this during jam ?
Jolting like in the video during gear shift at low speeds (~10-20 km/h).
Skip to 1:08 then just watch for 5 seconds.

Edit:
Done more reading on "bucking". DCT is a manual and should be operated like one.
So if jam and 2 bar battery:
Don't inch forward like those Myvis kissing bumpers.
Release brake pedal, let it roll first, then feather throttle.
Don't even be in this condition in the first damn place. Plan ahead when to charge your batteries or your transmission will hate you, then you'll hate the transmission then hate yourself.
Sacrifice a few 0.5~1km/l to force charge the batteries before reaching jam areas, better safe than sorry.
To anyone thinking that 'oh hybrid will solve DCT stop-and-go traffic problem', well yes and no. ^
Our puny batteries only last 7-9 minutes on 1 speed A/C and ~15 minute on blower only, no A/C.
If your commute has this amount of time stuck in jam, then no worries. Just make sure to top up battery before entering jam.
Else, this car is no different from other DCT during stop-and-go traffic.
Caveat emptor.

If you have tinting, definitely not enough to cover.

What are the odds of getting a cracked windscreen? Is it worth burning the money yearly for it?

Just google leather car seats malaysia and there is a lot. Depends on the leather material, can be cheap and also expensive.

Just make sure they have already done before for you car as they will have a template for it. The leather are mostly cover ons which goes over your stock seats instead of doing a complete tear down, re-foam the darn thing and getting the leather on.

That, or taobao.

Check out my Honda city 0-100 video guys



https://youtu.be/eM_WuNKiACo

Nice, just wondering is there any official timing for 0-100km/h sprint? Or is it too inconsistent to get the time. I know hybrid not meant to be used for power, just wondering myself.

Only remember using Eco thrice since bought.
Have to hunt for the button during driving, it's not at the correct position for me. Literally gave up and got frustrated (just abit) from hunting for the button during driving...
From the time I used it (with battery), during stop-and-go traffic crawl, car seems more likely to regen from super-short-2-car coast though (at 1 bar Charge ), so that might be a good thing if want to maximise battery.
Oh the the throttle becomes suuuper lazy, which is super good for stop-and-go. Less prone to overaccelerate -> brake. I love it.
Guess I'll use it more after break-in engine 1,000km/1month.

does this mean, for the first 1000 KM. I have to drive very slow?
2. what is breakin engine means?
3) what happens after that?
4) my odometer still at 300km, still have not drive fast till 120km/h hahaha

Check out my Honda city 0-100 video guys



https://youtu.be/eM_WuNKiACo

Nice, just wondering is there any official timing for 0-100km/h sprint? Or is it too inconsistent to get the time. I know hybrid not meant to be used for power, just wondering myself.