I was once a beginner on air brush and my first kits to test on air brush is HG banshee norn...Was a big mistake as there are too many small parts and many stuff didn't done nicely due to lack of experiences in prepare the part surface, finding the right air pressure,thinner ratio, color mixing, air brush process flow, cleaning stuff and etc. Would suggest maybe start with 1/100 barbatos lupus rex. And like what advocado mention don't go for very cheap unknown china AB because you may have the spray gone haywire or get clogged frequently, personally i'm using iwata hp-cp for main AB and ustar AB (forgot model) to prime surfaces.

Yea that's the thing, Tamiya spray cans are synthetic lacquer and based on the information on Tamiya website it will not be affected by acrylic or enamel paints.
I think I must be doing something wrong.

Wah, I did a quick Google search on iwata hp-cp and wow..I really cannot afford that

It is fine you can start with U-Star S-130 which is all rounder AB with more acceptable price for beginner who want to try air brush. Try play on few kits between AB and spray cans then you will know which direction you're heading.

I see. Thanks for the recommendations bro

And thanks gunplakk for the advice. No wonder the X20 eats through the paint. Gonna apply more lacquer clear coat.
Before this I just apply 1 thin layer of coats. Thanks yea

Wah, looks interesting

hi..I'm newbie to gunpla..anyone can recommend shops in kl sell gunpla with reasonable price? thanks a lot..

Anyone bought gunplas from Big Boys Small Toys before? they seem to have the cheapest RG Unicorn Gundam for only RM140 ,cheaper than gamers arena & it toys... nt sure about the other kits though

Hey man, I remember asking you about flat coat. Since Mr Top Coat is expensive as hell, do you use bottled flat clear + thinner and AB it? I've tried some non-hobby flat spray cans, though cheap but they give rough patchy finish....

There are not many Top coat in the market that isn't Tamiya or mr.Hobby. Mr.Hobby is very bad for use in Malaysia as it's prone to frosting and pressure is too high.

Where did you get non-hobby flat spray cheap? those in ACE aren't cheap and there's only 1-2 choices.

For any cans esp flat rule of thumb is never do more than 2 burst per session per area. gloss you can do wetter coats like 5 bursts but not flat as flat will turn gloss if you use too much, even Airbrush have same result but you can spray more using AB as they are thin.

For semi gloss, you can actually use Gloss Clear but sparingly. One burst per session will result in a very fine semi clear coat with spray texture. but spray at a further distance.

If you have airbrush just use Tamiya or Mr.Color Clear and use their respective Flat Gel to get the level of flat of your desire. and of course, thin it accordingly.

It's easier to get Tamiya bottled paints nowadays since 1U Tamiya sells alot of them. Most places don't carry Mr.Hobby Clear bottles. Well, not like there's many hobby tool shops in Malaysia nowadays.

Gamers Arena.

Or online like Gwing, Toypanic, Crux.

Gamers Arena sometimes stock old kits reissues.

If not, you have to look from HLJ or Amiami Japan online stores or ebay.

My friend got a can of acrylic clear spray, reacts oddly to difference surfaces. When sprayed on bare plastic, it's a nice matte coat. If sprayed on painted parts, it's semi gloss.

I've got a few cans of Samurai Spray. When I do short bursts, I felt like it's spraying watery mist instead of just mist. Hope it makes sense. I felt like it lacks pressure. I might try your warm bucket method though as I have another full can sitting there.



Could you elaborate more on "flat gel" tried googling it gave me a lot of random results.

i never seen Samurai Brand in shops, so i don't know how it works. wattery might mean you aren't shaking it well, you need to do it like Cocktail at the bar. it also depends on the QC of the paint mix, sometimes the batch has too much solvent. and also, has to be done on hot & dry days. if it's too wet, you should further the distance before spray, and like i said, max 1-2 burst on each area per session. the warm bucket mostly helps when you are using it for a long stretch as more you use it the colder it gets thus lower the pressure output. how much are the samurai mattes btw?

flat base is what Mr.Hobby call them. Google Mr.Hobby Clear Flat Base. there is a rought version no idea what it means.

http://mfpilot.com/clear-flat-base-standar...or-acrylic.html

put some in the clear + thinner mixture and use a flat tip brush to stir.

also on the different reaction, bare plastic is very smooth, thus you get a very glossy look with the spray, on painted parts, the surface is probably not smooth with spray textures, thus when you spray clear gloss on it it will look less glossy. to make it look glossy you need wetter coat so the coat fills up the gap between the spray dots.

to do so you have to use burst spray and move the can from 1 side to another at a distance very quickly each spray, after 5-6 bursts you should get a smooth & clear wet finish.

Firstly, you've always been a great help. Thank you very much.

The samurai costs around RM10-12 per can (each 400 ML).

I'm unsure, I've shook the can like mad already. It could be some conditions that were not met. I could be spraying too far/near or it's just not warm enough or like you said, too much solvent. My friend used the same spray can but he got a nice matte finish coating. I've got blotchy patchy finish like below.


If the warm bucket method doesn't work, I might try to decan the samurai and use AB. If AB doesn't work as well, then I'll just fking buy bottled paints liow

This post has been edited by GameFr3ak: Sep 11 2017, 01:42 PM

why decan a rm10 canned coat when you can purchase a bottled coat for rm10?

when you say blotchy patch, means the coat is too thick, either you sprayed too close, or sprayed too much. like i said, a burst from far distance will give you dotted texture feel, so only do 2 burst each time. you just want the spray to touch the parts you are coating, not "Blast" it. for matte you have to shake really well of the gloss & matte mixture won't be even and you get a patch of gloss here and a blotchy patch there.

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 11 2017, 01:52 PM

Thanks man. I'll consider my options when I'm done with my next kit. I might test on some runners.

I'll shake like this next time lol

Fuh!!! Is this real or fan-made???
Sosss pls!!!

any starwar kaki here? the xwing wing part seen quite loose for me.when open the wing..it like shake it shake it.


btw, this bandai old kit very nice. huge & well detail..even thou it was 2004 old kit. feel like more worth compared to the x wing.

anyone going for this trow ?


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