Does anyone has experience with KBD75 and TINA, can share your thought on the quality of these kits?
there are a number of sifus using kbd75 (and maybe tina) at mymkb fb page. you should check with them for their thoughts there because they are more active at fb.
notes on gk64 - mystery solved. it's confirmed that stock stabs on gk64 are crappy. i bought few sets of china-made stabs from taobao (they came before genuine cherry stabs), so i just applied the same mods (minus band-aid mod; will add this later).
the differences are real. everything is much better now: very minimal rattles when i tap the space bar at the sides; smooth up-down movement is now even across the key (meaning no matter which part of space bar you tap, it will move down and up evenly)
Hi fellow MKB Sifus. A lot of questions here from newbie so I truly appreciate any given answers and suggestions.
Is the quality of Leopold good? Are they worth the money as of right now compared to other similar 1800 layout (looking at the fc980m) with numpad included but still compact. Cause the shipping fee alone cost $54 which bugs me quite a bit. Not looking at compact 60% size since I already have Anne pro and one TKL board. This 3rd keeb is primarily for typing and so I want a numpad with it.
And also do anyone here own an IBM model M? What's your take on it? Kinda want 1 for the feel of it
Lastly can someone tell me what materials are the keycaps Logitech used on the G pro gaming keyboard. Are they ABS?
notes on gk64 - mystery solved. it's confirmed that stock stabs on gk64 are crappy. i bought few sets of china-made stabs from taobao (they came before genuine cherry stabs), so i just applied the same mods (minus band-aid mod; will add this later).
the differences are real. everything is much better now: very minimal rattles when i tap the space bar at the sides; smooth up-down movement is now even across the key (meaning no matter which part of space bar you tap, it will move down and up evenly)
hahaha... dammit... I guess it's like what others said, some stabs are beyond saving... and these stock stabs on GK64 are some of them. LOL...
Hi fellow MKB Sifus. A lot of questions here from newbie so I truly appreciate any given answers and suggestions.
Is the quality of Leopold good? Are they worth the money as of right now compared to other similar 1800 layout (looking at the fc980m) with numpad included but still compact. Cause the shipping fee alone cost $54 which bugs me quite a bit. Not looking at compact 60% size since I already have Anne pro and one TKL board. This 3rd keeb is primarily for typing and so I want a numpad with it.
And also do anyone here own an IBM model M? What's your take on it? Kinda want 1 for the feel of it
Lastly can someone tell me what materials are the keycaps Logitech used on the G pro gaming keyboard. Are they ABS?
Thanks
hi and welcome.
yes, leopold is one of better prebuilts. for me yes it's worth it.
i know nothing about ibm model m. it's too bulky for me. not sure about key caps on logitech g pro too; it's very likely abs caps.
QUOTE(antaras @ Feb 2 2018, 12:24 AM)
hahaha... dammit... I guess it's like what others said, some stabs are beyond saving... and these stock stabs on GK64 are some of them. LOL...
yeah i didn't know it's this bad. the differences are too obvious.
edit: further tests showed that chinese stabs that i bought are actually relatively decent.
here is a note about the recent revisions of gk64 pcb. just recently i bought one for kailh box switches. upon inspection i noticed that it has pcb sockets for switches that i'm not sure if they're from kailh. (different design and shape, no kailh logo; and honestly the soldering job is not as good and clean as first batch) now i'm not sure if the new pcb sockets can stand up to 100 cycles like kailh's.
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pcb sockets from kailh
the new pcb sockets
although pcb sockets are replaceable (it's like soldered switches), imo it's important that manufacturers should stick to the specs as is for CIY pcb (unless the new parts have equal or better qualities in them)
This post has been edited by horns: Feb 2 2018, 02:41 PM
for fellow mkb users here, this is the brief walk-through on how to build your own 60% custom CIY boards based on gk64 pcb. the reference that i am referring to is this:
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imo the advantages of a CIY board are that it makes custom board building very convenient for anyone (i.e. you can enhance the board further with switches and stabs of your choice, mods, etc., with minimal efforts), and it provides additional convenience, including on-the-fly switch hot swapping.
note that i'm not comparing this to custom boards with soldered switches. imo they are still the best option for a custom board, because soldering switches provides a solid reinforcement of physical structure to a board in the long run. however, i think it's much better than key switch testers, so as to give a better idea to individuals on the actual typing experience (with a functional board), before you decided to use the combos in permanent builds, with higher-end parts.
for assembly of CIY boards, you just need three tools: 1. keycap puller 2. switch puller, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=542535561635 3. a philips-head screw driver (for laptop repairs; a cheap box set found in computer shops will also do the jobs fine)
base parts that you need (sources: taobao, kbdfans)
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the assembly process is simple and very straight forward (with some basic mods to make it relatively better)
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1. lube the switches if they're not pre-lubed. you must do this. it brings a lot of significant improvements to typing feels; 2. apply band-aid mod on pcb; 3. assembles stabilizers (you should do clipping mod and lubing with thick lubes before assembly), and secure them onto pcb; remember to put insulator rings between the stab screws and pcb; 4. add a layer of anti-slip mat between the pcb and bottom case; this helps reduce pings, and makes the typing feel more 'firm' and 'solid'; 5. align the top plate and pcb, and install switches; be sure not to use force during installation of switches. if switch legs are aligned properly, you just need to push the switches a little/very lightly, and they will secure and sit flush properly on top plate. if you feel resistance when doing so, that usually means the legs are not aligned properly for the pcb sockets on the pcb. just use your finger nails to adjust the legs very lightly to ensure they are aligned. you can always cross-check the alignment with another working switch; 6. place the insulator rings on top of standoffs of the bottom case (there are 6 standoffs for kbdfans-5-degree case); 7. secure top plate + pcb and bottom case with screws; and finally 8. install key cap set of your choice.
that's about it actually lol
usually you can complete all the above in under 15 minutes, or less. (if you minus time-consuming tasks like switch lubing and mods, because you can always apply them later if you want)
--
additional notes
1. lubes
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this depends on what you wanna achieve. there are already plenty of suggestions for lubing switches, housings, springs, stabilizers, etc. you can always follow their solutions. personally i just use Super Lube 21030 all the way, for everything (i use linear switches only). know that this is not optimal according to many, but i'm satisfied with the outcomes.
for stabilizers, always use thick lubes.
also, since i cannot find anything related to cleaning up the mess when i screwed up lubing, i use isopropyl alchohol before i reapply new lubes.
2. switches
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for gk64 pcb, the leds are of smd type, which are already soldered to the pcb. hence, the ideal type of switches are those so-called smd-compatible switches, which have clear and transparent housings. however, you can still use the non-smd types also (because functionally they are the same), but the non-transparent black housing will block the led light.
based on the way switches are mounted, there are also two sub types of switches: 1. plate-mount switches - normally this is the default that can be found in stock gk64. they have 3 legs. 2. pcb-mount switches - these switches have 5 legs.
gk64 pcb supports both sub types in general. imo pcb-mount switches are the better ones because the additional two legs add rigidity to the switches. i have tested with cherry mx and gateron pcb-mount switches. to me they work fine as is. however if you found the additional legs for pcb-mount switches are in the way for some reasons, you can always cut them off (i.e. kind of like converting them to plate-mount switches), and they will work fine too.
3. stabilizers
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gk64 pcb supports both pcb- and plate-mount cherry style stabilizers. note that the original/prebuilt gk64 use plate-mount stabs.
from what i have learned, there are at least three characteristics that make good stabs: thicker housing and insert walls; inserts that have the least wobbles when installed into housings, and wires that are thick and laid flat on table, with each tip aligned at the center of the housings when installed. (this means the length of wires, despite difference in millimeters only, does affect its behaviors by a lot also)
for any build, genuine cherry stabs are the preferred option.
basic mods that you should do to the stabs: 1. lubing - to ensure smooth movements; 2. band-aid mod - basically this means placing a layer of band-aid tapes between the stab housings and pcb. 3. clipping mod - this means clipping the two legs of inserts, making the stabs less mushy.
4. compatible top plates and cases
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note that the way the original/prebuilt gk64 is assembled initially made it look like we would not be able to use almost all 60% bottom cases. however things are changing now, because more people are telling us a different story.
the 'magic' is very likely related to the compatibility of the top plate and bottom case, not really related to gk64 pcb. (as shown in the video above) the stabs are pcb-mount instead of plate-mount cherry stabs in the original/prebuilt gk64.
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the matching combo of driver/software and firmware are required for customization of gk64.
- the latest driver/software can be obtained at http://www.jikedingzhi.com/downloadlist - a note about gk64's firmware updates: as of this writing, the latest driver/software is GK6XPlus Driver V5.0.0.21. however, you might find that the latest firmware available via built-in firmware update in the software is 1.7. this might cause your gk64 to not work properly (in my case, the driver/software always shows 'application failure' message when i tried apply settings, and somehow screwed up the built-in lighting features). the remedy is to do a manual firmware update to 1.16 via the official firmware updater, which can be requested via their official group in QQ. alternatively, you can pm me for a copy. beware: use the updater at your risks. the main reason why i don't share it here because it might make your pcb to brick)
This post has been edited by horns: Mar 5 2018, 04:23 PM
for fellow mkb users here, this is the brief walk-through on how to build your own 60% custom CIY boards based on gk64 pcb. the reference that i am referring to is this:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
imo the advantages of a CIY board are that it makes custom board building very convenient for anyone, and it provides additional convenience, including on-the-fly switch hot swapping.
note that i'm not comparing this to custom boards with soldered switches. imo they are still the best option for a custom board, because soldering switches provides a solid reinforcement of physical structure to a board in the long run. however, i think it's much better than key switch testers, so as to give a better idea to individuals on the actual typing experience (with a functional board).
for assembly of CIY boards, you just need three tools: 1. keycap puller 2. switch puller 3. a philips-head screw driver (for laptop repairs; a cheap box set found in computer shops will also do the jobs fine)
base parts that you need (sources: taobao, kbdfans)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
1. 1x gk64 pcb, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=564610395739 2. 64x switches; kbdfans usually sells cheaper switches; if possible, get some extras so that you can have buffers when there are bad switches; 3. 3x 2u stabilizers, 1x 6.25u space bar stabilizers (basically just get a normal 60%/tkl set will do); note that gk64 uses cherry style plate-mount stabilizers; use genuine cherry stabilizers if possible; 4. 1x top plate, layout-a from https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=558696112380 5. 1x bottom case, cnc aluminum: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=558688486590 , acrylic: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=562672868069 6. 1x compatible key caps (2u-lshift, 1u-rshift, 1u-del key; all for r1, as demonstrated in one of the images at the next link) like this one, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=563622785088 7. 1x usb type-c cable, plenty of choices; 8. screws, this one i'm not sure yet. i think you can ask them to supply a set for backup purposes when you buy parts from them. there are two sets of screws for the original gk64 (one set is to secure top plate to pcb, while another set is to secure the former to bottom plate)
the assembly process is simple and very straight forward (with some basic mods to make it relatively better)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
1. lube the switches if they're not pre-lubed. you must do this. it brings a lot of significant improvements to typing feels; 2. assembles stabilizers (you should do clipping mod and lubing with thick lubes before assembly), and secure them into top plate; 3. apply band-aid mod on pcb; 4. secure top plate and pcb with screws; 5. add a layer of anti-slip mat between the pcb and bottom case; this helps reduce pings, and makes the typing feel more 'firm' and 'solid'; 6. secure top plate + pcb and bottom case with screws; 7. install switches; be sure not to use force. if switch legs are aligned properly, you just need to push the switches a little/very lightly, and they will secure and sit flush properly on top plate. if you feel resistance when doing so, that usually means the legs are not aligned properly for the pcb sockets on the pcb. just use your finger nails to adjust the legs very lightly to ensure they are aligned. you can always cross-check the alignment with another working switch; and finally 8. install key cap set of your choice.
that's about it actually lol
usually you can complete all the above in under 15 minutes, or less. (if you minus time-consuming tasks like switch lubing and mods, because you can always apply them later if you want)
note that the current problem with gk64-based boards is that its layout is not compatible with almost all 60% bottom cases. however things might change with time in near future.
did u face any problems using gk64 setup on 5 degree kbd case?
did u face any problems using gk64 setup on 5 degree kbd case?
will update you guys with more proper details later. my 5-degree is on the way.
afaik, in terms of parts, the main difference between stock gk64 and kbd-5 degree is the top plate and bottom case. i have read that some standoffs in kbd 5-degree case needs proper insulation, and that's about it. hope to find out more when the real thing is here.
somehow i cannot get more accurate information about screws (the exact model numbers) some told me to use 'normal screws', which is still quite meaningless to me for now. (maybe they are just m2 * 4mm to 6mm, as this was what i found out when i looked up potential screw sizes for cases)
edit: there are indeed valid reasons for people to like kailh box switches. testing with stock red/black (linear, no click bar): - they are smooth out-of-box (pre-lubed, no scratchy feel; so you can just use them as is. additional lubing does nothing); - their stems wobble less; - somehow they are relatively louder than cherry mx and gateron linear switches when they bottoms out. (maybe it's just me)
the first two characteristics bring a relatively better and solid typing feel right out-of-box. i think kaihua really put a good amount of efforts to make their switches better this time. for those who are still haunted by their old switches, just give this one a try. pricing wise, they're relatively cheaper (with pre-lubed switches; less wobbly stems; anti-dust/water ip56 stuff).
the first impression is really nice and impressive. however, the switches are still in their fresh states. it will take a while to find out if there are inconsistency in them, or any other weird effects.
This post has been edited by horns: Feb 4 2018, 01:50 AM
I just changed my Kailh box browns and blacks to Gateron silent reds and blacks. Okay, the first thing is the obvious difference in decibels. I haven't tried the much superior Cherry silent red(as reviewed by many others) variant yet, so I can't compare between them at the moment. Bottoming out will be a lot softer sound instead of the "clack" on normal switches. Anyway, perhaps this is the bad part on these Gateron silent reds, the rough scratchiness feel of the switches. Slightly less profound on the blacks but the reds are just horrible. You can even hear the scratchy sound. As if there's a layer of powder or sand in the switch. This is going to take some getting use to.
I just changed my Kailh box browns and blacks to Gateron silent reds and blacks. Okay, the first thing is the obvious difference in decibels. I haven't tried the much superior Cherry silent red(as reviewed by many others) variant yet, so I can't compare between them at the moment. Bottoming out will be a lot softer sound instead of the "clack" on normal switches. Anyway, perhaps this is the bad part on these Gateron silent reds, the rough scratchiness feel of the switches. Slightly less profound on the blacks but the reds are just horrible. You can even hear the scratchy sound. As if there's a layer of powder or sand in the switch. This is going to take some getting use to.
don't use them as is. lube them first. all silent switches from cherry mx and gateron are scratchy at stock state. lubing gets rid of the scratchiness entirely.
tbh lubed gateron silent is just slightly quieter than lubed normal gateron linear. still, they are great switches, and i like them. but in terms of building silent board, gateron silents are not as optimal as cherry mx silents.
now i really hope kailh box will have a silent version very soon hahaha!
don't use them as is. lube them first. all silent switches from cherry mx and gateron are scratchy at stock state. lubing gets rid of the scratchiness entirely.
tbh lubed gateron silent is just slightly quieter than lubed normal gateron linear. still, they are great switches, and i like them. but in terms of building silent board, gateron silents are not as optimal as cherry mx silents.
now i really hope kailh box will have a silent version very soon hahaha!
Lots of work to lube every single switch but perhaps that is the only way to go now then. I also noticed that it's slightly more wobbly compared to box switches. The spacebar wobbles way more than before. Either that or it's the damn placebo effect. Hahaha...
Anyway, do you have issues securing the cherry silent switches on the plate? Somehow, these Gaterons won't secure itself nicely no matter how hard I push them in. After snipping off the 2 extra legs (it's a 5 legs/pcb mount switch) I managed to push it in but the back section of the switch won't snap on the plate. Meaning only the front part (where the 2 connectors are) managed to snap on. What I did is, I had to snip off the 2 tiny little legs on the other end of the switch, if you can understand what I'm saying. Only after that, the switch snap on perfectly. Perhaps the plate were a tiny wee bit too thick? Hmmmm... Or perhaps Gateron switches are a little thicker than Kailh box?
This post has been edited by antaras: Feb 6 2018, 09:08 AM
Lots of work to lube every single switch but perhaps that is the only way to go now then. I also noticed that it's slightly more wobbly compared to box switches. The spacebar wobbles way more than before. Either that or it's the damn placebo effect. Hahaha...
Anyway, do you have issues securing the cherry silent switches on the plate? Somehow, these Gaterons won't secure itself nicely no matter how hard I push them in. After snipping off the 2 extra legs (it's a 5 legs/pcb mount switch) I managed to push it in but the back section of the switch won't snap on the plate. Meaning only the front part (where the 2 connectors are) managed to snap on. What I did is, I had to snip off the 2 tiny little legs on the other end of the switch, if you can understand what I'm saying. Only after that, the switch snap on perfectly. Perhaps the plate were a tiny wee bit too thick? Hmmmm... Or perhaps Gateron switches are a little thicker than Kailh box?
yes it took some time to lube all of them but it's worth it. right kailh box switches wobble the least compared to cherry mx and gateron switches.
i have no issue securing mx silents on the plate. (i have both rgb and normal versions; basically they are the same as the normal red rgb that came with my gk64)
now this part is weird. i do have cherry mx and gateron pcb-mount blacks, and they are secured nicely to the plate without leg-cutting also. (just retested them. they sit flush to the plate. yes it's relatively but slightly harder to push them in compared to plate-mount switches) in fact i think pcb-mount switches are relatively better to be used with gk64, because the additional legs add more rigidity to the switches. btw gk64 that i'm typing on now are actually consisting of gat red (plate-mount) + gat silent black (pcb-mount).
edit: this is a good point about type of switches that i forgot to mention. updated the walk-through a bit to reflect this. there were plenty of tests and experiments that i haven't had time to reorganize yet. i will try to add as much as possible into a better guide later.
This post has been edited by horns: Feb 6 2018, 04:57 PM
Do you all get your items/parts from Taobao (KBDfans's shop)?
not really. there are plenty of good places to get parts for mkbs.
QUOTE(SecretSuperStar @ Feb 7 2018, 12:17 AM)
Love my 6gv2 black switch. I've got 2 currently in my possession. one from 7 years ago, another one just bought it recently because of discounted price.
I've tried so many mech keyboard, but somehow this black switch still the king for me.
oh good for you. as long as you're happy with it then it's all good
not really. there are plenty of good places to get parts for mkbs.
Any other places for me to start looking for parts? Coming intl this cold just reading alot of guides online, but all the suggested vendors are either US based or AliExpress..
Any other places for me to start looking for parts? Coming intl this cold just reading alot of guides online, but all the suggested vendors are either US based or AliExpress..
which parts are you looking for? afaik many shops are from those places.