Got add biocide?Mind to take a picture?
Is it like some kind of white thingy sticking at res?

are you sure about that?
haha ive already flushed it out with high pressure water plus i added loads of vinegar countless times

eh where is this almostthere

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Added on October 26, 2008, 12:36 pmits like sticking on the wall of my res.
people always report that their loops get cloudy after a while. same thing here

This post has been edited by DaRkSyThE: Oct 26 2008, 12:36 PM

Firstly darksythe, you need to use those battery water/pharmaceutical grade purified water for your flushing and dilution of whatever dissolvents you choose to use. But prior to that, why not use the old trick of removing calcification on battery terminal contacts on cars by pouring in steaming hot water in and draining it out. Usually that sorts the hard one's out. Then after that, use the normal method which DOES involves hours of soaking and shaking about to make sure it reaches every part of the rad. Finally flush one more time using that purified water

i used that method to clean my rad all the time ... almostthere agrees too..

The same thing happened to me,but seem to be ok after adding a lot of biocide in

LOL, those who have been at it long enough using tap water only would know what to do by now. BTW bro, you're in which part of Puchong? should meet up one day

haha... i used to use tap water with biocide... now using distilled with biocide... erm... im staying at bandar bukit puchong...

my first noob WC will be done this week hahaha....
leak leak leak =_="

leak test leak test leak test....24 hours....that's the noobie rule

My 1st WC set-up . . . ran succesfully , no leaks and very happy with it. These are the temps i obtain with it, soo much cooler compared to my hdt s1283 . But the vcore when i took is lower compared to normal, bios is set to 1.45V, vdroop 1.416V.



This is for my air cooling, totally diff clocks and the TJmax is 105C (didnt knew it was 100C )

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...=post&id=601885

temps for intel burn.



This post has been edited by hermit23: Nov 2 2008, 12:32 PM

guys, wanna ask some noob question..
cooltrek rad best using high airflow or mid airflow fan???

and one more question..
cooltrek is copper type or aluminium type rad???

sorry for the silly question.. cant find cooltrek website..

wanna ask something...

if i put a waterblock sandwiched a peltier with the cold side on the water block, and hot side cooled by regular heatsink, (air cooling), to further decrease temp of the coolant after radiator, will it worth ? just like the dell h20c cooling systems works. the peltier + wb will place after rad.

Here is my plan:
Vmax = 15.2V
- Imax = 3A
- Tmax = +-69C
- Qmax = 45.6W
- Dim = 40mm x 40mm x 5.4mm
- Weight = 80g
the peltier i gonna use, thn an old apogee gt or mp-01 block with cold side on the waterblock and hot side cooled by either an VGA HSF( could cool down the wattage of the TEC) or CPU HSF, sandwiched together so tht the coolant even further cooled after the radiator.

ok now problem with me is will the wattage of the peltier causes backfire ?
how to control the peltier so tht i can keep the proc around ambient when idle and lower the delta between load and idle ?

i did tht for my e8400@4.25ghz@1.46vcore + 4850 VGA, my radiator are warm to touch and the hot exiting are warm as well, so i guess its around delta of 10c+ above ambient, and i guess i just need to supply low voltage to the peltier so tht it just bring out some xtra heat from the loop.

the temp of my e84 from core temp readings are freaking high, i knw its temp sensor error, so if condensation occur yet the readings are high i will knw the error rate.

any comments ? need fellow forumers and pros opinions...

main purpose = decrease delta to load temperature w/o purchasing exp radiator such as the thermochill and feser and yet getting better temps on my wc using back mcr-220qp. i can make use of unused wb, mp-01 or apogee. so actually i just need to spent on a peltier which is below rm100 + mayb stock intel hsf

i guess my corsair 750w psu will support this tec.

This post has been edited by lichyetan: Nov 6 2008, 02:18 AM

@ lichyetan
i thought about this method before... but the effects wont be very good depending on how u get rid of the heat on the hot side... aquarium chillers uses peltier to cool the water too.. i think its a bad idea to use ur psu to power the peltier as peltiers tend to draw every available power from ur psu... if u put too much power into it and fail to cool the hot side of the peltier u will end up heating up ur water even more...

Vmax = 15.2V
- Imax = 3A
- Tmax = +-69C
- Qmax = 45.6W
- Dim = 40mm x 40mm x 5.4mm
- Weight = 80g

but according to the spec, its max 3A only rite... ? if i supply 12v the wattage will be lower as well...

mayb i'll have a try and see... i think i will cool the hotside with a p4 heatsink(those with copper core) to see how 1st. actually still planning and googling...

any1 know where 2 get WC item in London (central)?... planning 2 migrate 2 WC... perhaps sm1 cud help pls.. thx!

tried out the idea in the last few post, with larger wattage of peltier of course, reduced temp around 3-5c idle & load with low fan speed then rad w/o peltier. Full blast of fan also getting almost same temp as the rad keep the water around ambient i think. When touching the rad, its cooler than last time and no longer feel warm when touching the bottom of the rad. Here are some pics,

*note tht the water block are my old waterblock, so i just spent another rm250+ for the peltier + HSF, should have use stock intel HSF as temp diff not much. The temp i think is better then dual mcr-220qp setup last time, just electric bills will raised,

-edited-

This post has been edited by enzim10: Dec 18 2008, 05:14 PM

bro linchyetan, nice setup u have... very creative ... mind showing some screenies??? by the way, whats wattage of the peltier u r using?

This post has been edited by glock88: Nov 22 2008, 10:03 AM

haha nice try... told u not worth the money.. i tried before already and took it out .. RM220 for my peltier ONLY... then another RM120 for HSF(TT big typhoon vx)... i get around 28C idling core temperature(-8 from original).. and -5C from my load temp which is 45C(original 50C)..

using 130w peltierr on 12v psu... so its arround 90+/- watts.

its looks cool but doesnt cools well actually, just better temps on lower fan speed than last time. cause i felt even u go for higher wattage peltier, the radiator might just bring back the temps to arround ambient or heat it up with hot air from the case.... in my opinion its quite inefficient, but since i tried it already, lazy too take off, sommore it looks cool, its actually not save $$$ for me but since i got spare w/b, the result also better then another mcr-220qp or almost same if not remember wrongly.