Can solve, but requires time and patience. I went till the point of breaking the air vent knobs so that they can be made to sit tightly and yet move smoothly, alongside all sort of stuff to solve design issues.

Take a picture of your cut off, might be bulb installation problem

Can. There is an adjustment screw for the high beams. Don't adjust it too high. You need it just slightly higher than the low beams so that you can enjoy the benefits of high beam @ main beam lights.

Very expensive to maintain if you care about the car. If you don't care about the car, it still will bite you in the arse and pocket, but harder.

Next time just keep quiet and claim la

Gearbox not sedap at low speed, better if the CVT damper has been replaced under the recall programme which is ending very soon. Requires rather frequent end user adaptation to remain smooth and an oil change for the gearbox preferably every 30,000km or earlier to keep it in good shape.

2nd hand might not be a good buy unless it has a solid record due to sub par parts quality.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 7 2019, 09:34 PM

COSE should be much faster, but it depends on stock availability as well. Cost wise might actually be lower than authorised, but maybe not by much.

Since your car doesn't have warranty already, it may make more sense to get the parts replaced at reputable workshops such as Zordaq Motorsport. They sell genuine proton parts and the labour cost is much cheaper. They may even be better than doing it at COSE assome of COSE's foremen/technicians don't really check their job quality.

You just need to make an appointment with them.

1. Engine mounting set - get the entire set replaced. total cost is within 5xx if I'm not mistaken at Zordaq, all genuine parts. Apparently replacing the top two only without the bottom two will reduce their lifespan.

2. Lower arm both sides - What is the vehicle's mileage now?

3. Front absorber - Get all four changed at the same time. Just buy original proton absorbers for suprima as their price is almost the same as the ones sold by spare part shops. Zordaq also sell genuine absorbers.

4. Module sensor - What is this for? Parking sensors?

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 28 2019, 12:32 PM

Nope, but they do a lot of protons, so they're a safer bet if you want to have your proton car serviced or repaired. I just happen to say it more frequently cause I don't know any other shops besides some others that I go to for minor jobs.

If you want alternatives:

1. Zhapalang motorsport -> Did my absorbers here/some suspension parts, Kayaba OE part for Suprima/Preve. Feels the same, but I would have gone for Proton originals as the difference is about RM100 only. Labour charge is a reasonable RM30 per piece, and they have proper equipment for disassembly. Didn't go to Zordaq or other shops that do lots of Proton as they were full, and avoided one that had cheap absorbers but wanted rm40 per side. The two workers working for Zenden are really nice.

2. EA Autoworks -> Did my engine/transmission mounts here. They carry ProVision mountings for Suprima/Preve which are not as soft as originals, but last much longer. RM5xx too. If you want to get your engine/CVT oil changed, can do it here too, but do NOT bring your own oils. Anything else don't bother unless you are planning to change to parts that they sell, such as absorbers.

P/S: Get your absorber mounts, bearings, and bump stops replaced too at the same time. Originals are really cheap, and at 130k km it's about time too. Make sure it's genuine part, if you don't know where to get, go to Proton parts Centre glenmarie

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 28 2019, 01:51 PM

The best is x70 now, though it isn't really proton's..

3. Top speed - 210 to 240 depending on vehicle and conditions. Mine barely climbs after 210, though i have never had the chance to really max it out without having to brake.

Never paid attention to this. Just know that with MBO from EA Autoworks it's pretty fast.

I believe some have recorded a 7.6sec or 8sec time before for 0 to 100, but it isn't good for the gearbox

Replace the brake switch. Make sure its length is adjusted properly as well

The car's computer reads the brake signal to decide on whether to engage, disengage, or engage the clutch partially. If the switch is gone which is possible due to the lousy quality, it can have poor contact causing erratic signal output to the computers.

Other than this, could be the brake pedal is not pressing against the switch sufficiently over rough roads when it is not depressed, thus causing a brake/no brake signal to be produced randomly especially when the road is bumpy. This is why the switch has to be adjusted correctly. Enough to stay closed, yet not so deep that it fails to produce brake signal quickly when the pedal is depressed.

It's only between 20 to 30 RM, original. Buy from PPC as it should have the latest stock.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 23 2019, 10:01 PM

Do you hear some noise from the boot when you operate the switch/remote? If yes the motor is either weak, or the link between the motor and boot latch release is broken. If not it might be something else. Bring to a trusted service centre and get them to help diagnose, or if you have some car troubleshooting skills, start looking from the interior fuse box if there's no sound coming from the motor in the boot.

I personally never experienced this. Some say additional grounding will help, some blame it on bulb quality/replacement process, i.e. bulb was contaminated during installation. In any case get a branded H7 bulb replacement, or just go to somewhere like EA Autoworks and get them to recommend a better alternative

1. Might be related to the brake switch. It's just RM2x from Proton Parts Centre or any Proton's SC. Don't buy it from anywhere else if you're looking for this part. If not get the car scanned by Proton or by a trusted workshop to see what's the issue.

2. Possible solutions are branded bulb replacements, additional grounding, changing headlamp bulb socket, etc.

3. Buy a new replacement for the gear lever.

4. Not much you can do about the original seat as most owners will suffer from this. A car upholstery shop may be able to help by stuffing additional materials inside the seat, but ask them first.

5. Rocker cover seal replacement will cost between Rm100 to RM120 at a proton SC including original parts and sealant. All campro engines have this issue, and many will start exhibiting this problem as early as 60,000km

EA Autoworks. They're the only one who offer MBO for proton CFE models

Forgot to mention.. it's RM6xx now I think. If you don't actually want to keep your car for too long, maybe find someone whose car you can try first before deciding. I haven't seen any negative reviews yet though

1., 5., and 6. should be done at official/authorised service centres

The rest can be done elsewhere, preferably by people who have been dealing a lot with the specific task like servicing the turbo. Search facebook for people like Zainuddin Jasman, Tam turbo, etc in the cfe/cvt group.

For the oil catch tank, you've got a choice of buying one online for a much cheaper price and either installing it yourself (which is really easy to follow), or getting someone to install it for you (and buying if you don't want the hassle of sourcing for the part)

Side note:
And sorry, but if someone is running a business or are related to the person, there's no need to act like they don't know them. I find their labour cost to be over the higher side compared to other more popular shops, so unless distance is a problem, look for those people mentioned via facebook



This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Apr 22 2020, 08:59 PM

Original plugs are already Iridium, need to change every 50k to 60k km

Other things no comment except for the oct, which is a good choice. Do MBOxCFE and some other preventive maintenance after collecting the vehicle like engine oil and gearbox oil change at a reputable shop. Do note that the gearbox oil change is very critical and requires a shop that knows what needs to be done, otherwise it can cause premature failure instead. Perhaps you can consider doing both at EA Autoworks since they are the ones that do the remap

I think up to 1.0 bar, or an increase from 138 BHP up to 150 BHP, 13x WHP, 205NM to a more linear 225NM, both depending on vehicle's health.

I'd set aside a budget of 2k to 3k to recondition the car. No offense, but many can't actually afford to maintain the car properly and therefore dispose it when they can't take it anymore or when it just gets to a really bad state. There are a few parts that would probably require a replacement soon:

1. Engine, Transmission and Cross member mounts - RM4xx to 5xx including labour, original protons
2. Front and Rear Dampers - RM5xx to 6xx including labour (They're usually good for 60k to 80k km for Proton). Maybe add the top mounts and bearing if needed
3. Rear Upper Arms/ "dog-bone" - check with shop about their condition and if there's a need to replace them. These two parts have a tendency to fail early. Expect it to reach over 7xx in total, or 5xx for the rear upper arms only including labour
4. Front lower arms -> Check with shop and get a quote
5. FEAD belt + tensioner -> 4xx including labour
6. Some others I can't think of right now. Perhaps check the last timing belt kit/waterpump change, fan motor's health, and the fan relays
7. Edit -> CVT Damper recall. Check with the service centre on whether it has been done or not

I guess you're probably gonna buy some aftermarket suspension parts at some point since you plan to put in some racing seats. Item 2 to 4 assumes that you're replacing with original Proton parts, which I would suggest doing at a reputable shop that does a lot of Protons (please refer to CFE/CVT group or Suprima owner's group).

There are a few in particular that are highly recommended when it comes to getting replacement proton original parts and labour like Zordaq Motorsport, Zainuddin Jasman (person) with shop, Tam Turbo Motorsports, Haruddin Hamid (person) with shop. I've only ever done some jobs at Zordaq Motorsport from the list and they're good as expected, just perhaps a bit disorganised. Feel free to buy the parts yourself and bring it to your trusted workshop if you have one


As for further improvements, I would suggest maybe getting some sound deadening done for reducing engine and road noise. I did mine at EA Autoworks and it makes driving the car a lot more comfortable, unless of course you're just into driving this car fast and for fun

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 24 2020, 07:31 PM

Go to another shop to get your alignment done. I always buy my PS4 and do my alignment at Kee Hin, Old Klang Road. No camber out-of-spec bullshit.

I don't think the previous shop did the alignment properly for you as mine lasted well over 50k km with regular alignment and rotation, perhaps the toe setting was too aggressive or they deliberately did it badly in case they asked you to add on some stuff and you didn't. I even kept two of the four tyres and sold it to someone for just 50 as they had about less than 10k km left to go

5W30 is the recommended viscosity by Proton for the CFE camxpro, but the only option is the Syntium 800 I think. Syntium 3000, 5000, 7000 are only available in xW-40

I see. I'd only buy it from the official Petronas store on shopee if I were you. I believe they made an account recently

Can you describe your problem again and the scenario?