Mine Titanium Gold is paint bottle one, never notice any spray types. The gold leaf 1 is not bad, just tat it is kind of deeper gold (almost like the Mr Hobby one)

Hi VincC454 nice SF built there.

1 2 ask u, how do u apply ur decal? Do u apply d decal on the plastic, then spray Topcoat flat; or u spray topcoat gloss first then only apply decal then Flat spray?

I was bout to apply decal to my MG Freedom...so 1 2 make sure d correct way.

thx

i apply all the decal first
then only use topcoat gloss..
unless i wanna do weathering effect then only i will use flat topcoat..

here the steps

surfacer
paint
lining
decal
topcoat

wanna ask something here....u all guys assembling ur models first then dissembling it to spray it right??if i just spray it while it is still attached to the runner is it any different from wat u guys did??coz i nvr painted my gundam before but since SF FB got some inner part that didnt hav the bling bling effect so i hav decide to painted its inner frame....thx for ya help....

I dun like painting the parts while they are still on the runner becoz when u cut them out u will see the place where connecting to the runner unpaint or having a slightly different color from the whole thing!!!

It may be fast but overall it aint good!

U can assemble ur kits first (just dun fix them too hard) then when u want to paint u dissemble them! Better off part by part (hand, leg, body, head dun fix them all together it will be hard for certain parts to dissemble). I learn my leason after breaking a few parts of my Zeta.

kk, thx a lot for da info (i'm a noob haha)

i guess only Mr.Hobby Mr.Color got spray can (and topcoat v surfacer too)

yup yup, wat he say its correct i break my SF

This post has been edited by ShinAsakura: Feb 8 2007, 08:13 PM

there is few ways you can do this..without accidently snap them tight.

1. you can cut the end of the males connector a bit, so then it wont tightly snap even that you press it all the way inside

2. make the female connector hole bigger by using almost the same size driller.

3.cut a moon shape on the female connector..so you can slide the parts out easliy.

but by doing no.1 and 2..some part will be lose and wont snap properly later on for final assemble..this can be fixed by applying cement before the final assemble.

Thx for the info...going to try to get Gloss Topcoat, TM finish liao while they still got stocks for Flat n Semigloss

Another question to all those modellers whom fixed their Freedom ady. How do u do the decal on the shoulder armor? Coz it is consisted of 2 diiferent plates n there is a gap there. I'm planning to cut the decal into half according to the line, but afraid it might not b symetrical after applying it. Any suggestions?

Thx in advance


Attached thumbnail(s)

^ if you wanna apply between those 2 parts..then apply it first..then carefully cut it into half..
better still if you got mr.mark setter..it can make the decal stick better
as for my freedom..i just stick it on one of the parts..so no need to cut anything

@VincC454

ur SF, u painted the torso n wings black or is it some sort of a dark blu

vincC454, erm, u color every parts? i see ur dark blue is black, n da blue is differ a bit.
i'm planning to color da hole which emits light at the head there to metallic blue... n oso da hole tat emit lights on the beam rifle there.

tot of using metallic blue marker, where to get it?

dunno this has been posted b4 or not.. has been lurking around n found this

wow...MG...but Akatsuki more tempting

anw, finished assembling my sf d, haven do lining/inking n decals yet... wanna rest.

for pics, i do took sum...but lazy post le...go my blog n see see la
My Xanga ^^

This post has been edited by ShinAsakura: Feb 9 2007, 02:15 AM

The box art of the Noir is a mirror of the 1/144 HG's >.> .

Nothing special about the Noir! Same as mine HG Noir at home, pay 3 times more to get a bigger size onli, the frame is no attraction at all since there is already 3 kits similar to it already!!! Go buy HG enough...

actually its a dark blue..very very dark it close to black already..
but when look closely..it still blue..

its the paint that use for aircraft model i think..i forgot the paint number..but it from mr.color

talking about spraying....

i assemble first then spray... parts by parts...
if you are going to buy can sprays from toy city (MV), make sure you kutuk the promoter there kao kao... ask them many many questions...

i bought 1 red and white spray from there, the white one stated for polycarbonate only.. i asked the staff there can it be used on gundams, he said yes.

Yes, it can be used but then do not to anything until the white paint is 110% dry, else it can be peeled off... arghh...

but the red is nice... both Tamiya brand...

polycarbonate paints are usually for RC and air planes models ,they do not have the gloss effect like the 1 u bought for ur red....
I did once bought 2 cans of red to made my entire zeta 2.0 into a red gundam
looks cool and also ugly... but it looks hot when its in aeroplane mode


I went to time machine yesterday at berjaya Time square and bought a gold paint (mr hobby) spray and a paint bottle of clear yellow.
plan to first spray it on the frame of SF and then use clear yellow as the finishing touch..

although i bought a Full burst edition of SF, i know there will be some cut marks on some of the shining parts...... Any tips to reduce those cut marks...(cut marks = blackout marks). Will probably start on next week friday for my SF
wish me luck..... i still nvr get top coat yet ....

This post has been edited by wizard83: Feb 9 2007, 10:51 AM

tamiya acrylic spray cans? it doesn't adhere well to plastics.. maybe u wanna coat it with surfacer first.. btw.. acrylic paint takes some time to dry up..

those black marks can be fixed by using gold markers..if you are not planning to spray the whole frame.

where did you get your full burst anyway? and how much?