I am in the car. So I had no idea whether my brake lights lit up or not. But since no car bang into me from behind, I can safely assume it's working?

got use or never use same..tht SAT module will got problem..
i kena before..never use at all yet got problem..end up kena claim warranty

Using TRW right now. Just changed last month. Biasa biasa only.

Bought for RM55 from spare part shop.

RM55? confirm normal brake pad lo...go for Ceramic Dtec

Own Saga FLX manual standard for about 4 years...nothing major problem...but during 1st year, i was aware that my altenator overcharge a bit, up to 16v...i just dont care about it until now, the alternator already kong. Anyone experience it? How much the price, kl area?

get someone to look when you park your car see whether all three brake lights lit up, if one of it doesnt it will lit up the cvt warning light. replaced mine at service centre because lazy to go to sparepart shop find a cheaper one

anyway, just bring it to proton for inspection. might just be the the brake light, the SAT button...or something more serious

Proton BLM - 2008 - Auto.

Gearbox problem. any recomend workshop for replace the gearbox?

Hi... Wanna to change to iridium spark plugs n drop in air filter... Which brand n model are u recommend? The best?

IMO it'd be very rare in any car to improve on the stock air filter, they offer the best balance of air flow and dust filtration.
I run iridium spark plugs but every few months pull one out to inspect, they always look absolutely perfect but I do fear them getting seized so inspecting is for peace of mind, I pull a different one each time, and dunno if it's needed but I apply a tiny dab of anti-seize to the threads, I've read about not doing that but can't help myself.

Heya...

Are you using the Campro engine? For Iridium plugs, I'd get either NGK TR6IX or Denso IT20 depending on which one is cheaper.
I agree with what Wankel said so I'd keep on using the stock air filters. They are also cheap to replace.

TR6IX are in Daisy, this one (number 4) I checked this morning.
Its only done about 14k km though as I don't drive a lot these days.

Hi all, my saga have used 5 years and recently the cvt light always on. Have checked at sc few times:
1) change cvt oil and light goes off
2) change break light, 3rd break
Recently the light on again...fo anyone have any idea what's happen?

Hi,

I using saga flx iafm+ CvT.
Which one do u recommend? DENSO?

i think the mechanic broke my oil pan while servicing my car

argued with them but they deny it

not going back there again

anyone know how much it cost to replace it? and good recommendation to get it fix?

i went for servicing last friday. 49k mileage. did mention to them about my cvt lights on problem. in the end, they resetted my ecu. is that what it is called? And THEY DID MENTION one of my signal bulb rosak. so replace it. is that kinda coincidence? does that means if the CVT light is on .. doesn't necessary means tis a CVT problem? might be other problem in the car as well? such as mentioned ... brake lights or signal lights problem?

and oh ..problem solved. no more annoying and scary CVT light lighting up again.

It been mentioned many a time here that failure of the 3rd brake lamp will trigger that warning lamp, be wary too that if you're like me and regard old Edison type filament lamps as a throwback and want to move on to this century's technology then the LED lamp would need to be canbus compliant or as I did solder a 1k2 resistor across the terminals. In the FLX the ECU only looks for a trace connection to earth but I believe things are a bit different for the prior BLM.

Now for a technical post from me hoping others may be curious.
I'm interested in jury rigging a cruise control and consider the AU$600 price online for aftermarket units to be way too high.
My first step is to see if I can rig up remote throttle control which would mean splicing into the wires of the pedal potentiometer.
My measuring of the plug found pins 5 and 6 each supply 5 Volts to the two separate pots in the pedal control, pins 2 and 3 are the earths for each of those, and pins 4 and 1 are the voltage return that provides throttle input, pin 4 varies from 0.55 V at idle to 4.70 Volts at full throttle, Pin 1 I figure is the error check signal which varies from 0.27 V to 2.35 V conveniently half the main signal so quite simple to rig up a voltage divider to provide that input.
My plan is to take one of the 5V and Ground inputs, run them through an adjustable voltage regulator then feed the output to line 4 and run the output through a simple two resistor voltage divider also to pin 1, I'm thinking by running the voltage directly like that it will mean not having to disconnect the plug from the pedal sensor with the voltages overruling it. I haven't tested anything yet while I wait for some bits to arrive but if anybody has any thoughts and experience here I'm all ears.

BTW one internal pedal pot is pins 3,4,5 the other one is 1,2,6.


This post has been edited by wankel: Nov 14 2016, 11:09 AM

most probably the TCU (transmission control unit). i dont think the signal light cause the problem. usually the 3rd brake light, or one of the brake lights will cause the cvt light to lit up (forgot on which saga thread mention about it).

glad to hear the problem is solved

and SAT also hehe