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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V70, Final thread by TS

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wankel
post Sep 17 2016, 04:31 PM

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Well done V12 for helping me find a place I can share knowledge about what for me is a very uncommon car, hopefully info about the Saga will continue when eventually this v70 thread reaches its end.

wankel
post Sep 25 2016, 12:13 PM

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The reason we shouldn't use ATF in our CVTs.
I was reading an article today explaining that ATF for the usual planetary type transmissions is formulated for reduced steel on steel friction, however fluid for CVT is formulated for increased steel on steel friction due to the whole principle of operation relying on the push belt gripping the variator.
This would explain the grief that has been noted from users who have had the misfortune of having the incorrect fluid exchanged at some point.
Be careful people, make sure it has EZL799 on the label somewhere.
wankel
post Sep 25 2016, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(wanfauzan @ Sep 25 2016, 06:32 PM)
No blower for sweaty feet. No blower for foggy windshield. Same old same old.
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You must have good eyesight, it's not something I would look for, my FLX will switch to places from my feet to the windscreen, I would have thought that was common but live and learn, although blowing on the windscreen is mandatory here, as well as traction control.

wankel
post Sep 28 2016, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(wywy2020 @ Sep 28 2016, 01:02 PM)
the pdf manual showed it is 10k interval. unless u r severe user then 5k interval is only required.
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Just be wary that all car makers love to sugarcoat things when they're trying to sell, but you need to read the fine print and what's hidden between the lines. Almost all usage worldwide is in reality severe, unless you face an easy 50km drive on a well sealed non hilly country road that lacks traffic and red lights as a usual drive then the service will be classed as severe. In my case most of my drive is very short trips to the shops where Daisy's engine barely warms up, that's very severe use despite never doing anything sporty at all.

wankel
post Sep 29 2016, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(AMenzZ @ Sep 29 2016, 05:08 PM)
VSC/ESC only avail for New Saga Premium model, Exec only ABS, Standard = AE86 = None
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My Daisy has that ESC thing or whatever letters they choose to use, I had only thought it to be a meaningless gimmick until one day I thoughtlessly parked in a waterlogged patch of ground and then happily noted upon trying to reverse straight back out that the odd sounds it was making would have been the traction control allowing Daisy to obtain enough grip to elude an embarrassing situation. I've yet to have any experience of the ABS kicking in but we only adopted Daisy two years ago.
wankel
post Oct 8 2016, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(cyclone9 @ Oct 8 2016, 09:39 AM)
Rattling sound appear on front of passenger seat. It happen when accelerate in low gear (1,2,3). What could be the issue?
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Check the air vent near the door, the whole panel just pulls off but takes a bit of force, then put a smear of silicone lube on the rubbing surfaces and hope that it was the problem.
wankel
post Oct 9 2016, 07:13 AM

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QUOTE(cyclone9 @ Oct 8 2016, 10:42 PM)
any pictures? I thought it related near engine area
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Attached Image

I use a brake spring puller to remove it.

Attached Image

I smear a bit of silicone lube on the contact surfaces.
I noticed the vent in this had broken when I removed it this morning, the second one of Daisy's to break, so I suppose I'll have to order another one.
I had a noisy rattle in Daisy a long time ago on the driver's side and if memory serves me rightly doing this to the RH vent surround fixed it, it's kind of hard to believe.

wankel
post Oct 21 2016, 09:37 AM

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Those accessory plugs are indeed a pain for things that are wired up full time, I've run connections from either the battery for permanently on supply or from an accessories wire for stuff like dashcams where it's best they switch off when not driving. Simplest is just to pull the console with the socket in it and wire up to its wires, then hang that outside the console. Difficulty may start from there as dashcams most likely will require a 5 Volt input, so buy a cheap buck converter and solder it in and fit a soket of your choice to it, then rewire the input to the dashcam to suit the new socket. To me it beats always having to juggle those pesky huge car sockets into operating.
As for suddenly braking simplest way to ease the stress upon you is to follow at a safe distance, three seconds is the current standard and one that I agree with, I know everyone will moan that someone will cut into your lane but just relax and fall three seconds behind them. I see plenty of incidents of posted dashcam stuff where a huge part of the fault is following too closely, something which is epidemic in our big cities.
wankel
post Nov 8 2016, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(hermeschantiko @ Nov 8 2016, 04:41 PM)
hi guys just wanna get some info since im not a car guy. I got Saga flx SV manual in end of 2013 and now it is about 80 000 km in mileage.

So far i've replaced the battery and do normal service(engine oil/oil filter change) every 5k to 7k.

But after some more reading i find out that there are things that i need to change but i didnt.

The car works but produce several noises which i have no idea what cause it. So here i make list of things that i should change immediately to prevent breakdown.

1) Spark Plug ( I change once when my car is around 40k)
If normal plugs then they're about due for renewal.
2) Timing Belt & FEAD? (no idea what FEAD is)
I think FEAD is the alternator etc sepentine belt you mention later, I'd just inspect it for cracks and missing bits and if half decent then just leave it for about another 10,000 km and change it together with the timing belt which would be due at 90,000 km. Whatever you do don't avoid or delay changing the timing belt as its breakage will cause catastrophic engine damage.
3) Fuel Filter
It's overdue but not an item to panic about, if your car runs like crap at higher speeds or climbing a long hill then it's a sign it's clogging, otherwise don't lose sleep over it.
4) Brake Fluid
Yes it's due and a good idea to change it, but you could sit on your hands a bit longer and sort the more vital stuff.
5) Power Steering Fluid
Same as brake fluid.
6) Radiator Coolant
Definitely do this, make sure you don't mix types which are usually identified by colour, if you mix red with green a jihad will occur in your cooling system, coolant is important don't defer changes.
7) Aircond Belt + air cond compressor oil?
I don't think A/C oil has ever been changed in any Aussie car system unless a major repair is done, all systems here are ignored until failure. The belt is the FEAD belt mentioned before.
8) Alternator Belt
FEAD belt again. Breakage doesn't cause immediate catastrophic damage but will quickly lead to overheating, however your dash will light immediately upon it snapping so you'll have time to stop. In 40+ years of driving I've never had a belt failure so I don't regard them as a panic item, but inspection is your friend, if they look awful then change them.

What is the price range for all this and am i missing something that could cause my car to breakdown. Pls advice
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Sorry can't help with price.

wankel
post Nov 12 2016, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(audia3 @ Nov 12 2016, 07:55 PM)
Hi... Wanna to change to iridium spark plugs n drop in air filter... Which brand n model are u recommend?  The best?
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IMO it'd be very rare in any car to improve on the stock air filter, they offer the best balance of air flow and dust filtration.
I run iridium spark plugs but every few months pull one out to inspect, they always look absolutely perfect but I do fear them getting seized so inspecting is for peace of mind, I pull a different one each time, and dunno if it's needed but I apply a tiny dab of anti-seize to the threads, I've read about not doing that but can't help myself.

wankel
post Nov 13 2016, 06:47 AM

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QUOTE(LemonKnight @ Nov 12 2016, 09:06 PM)
Heya...

Are you using the Campro engine? For Iridium plugs, I'd get either NGK TR6IX or Denso IT20 depending on which one is cheaper.
I agree with what Wankel said so I'd keep on using the stock air filters. They are also cheap to replace.
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TR6IX are in Daisy, this one (number 4) I checked this morning.Attached Image
Its only done about 14k km though as I don't drive a lot these days.
wankel
post Nov 14 2016, 10:50 AM

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QUOTE(qse150 @ Nov 14 2016, 12:36 PM)
and oh ..problem solved. no more annoying and scary CVT light lighting up again.
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It been mentioned many a time here that failure of the 3rd brake lamp will trigger that warning lamp, be wary too that if you're like me and regard old Edison type filament lamps as a throwback and want to move on to this century's technology then the LED lamp would need to be canbus compliant or as I did solder a 1k2 resistor across the terminals. In the FLX the ECU only looks for a trace connection to earth but I believe things are a bit different for the prior BLM.

wankel
post Nov 14 2016, 11:07 AM

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Now for a technical post from me hoping others may be curious.
I'm interested in jury rigging a cruise control and consider the AU$600 price online for aftermarket units to be way too high.
My first step is to see if I can rig up remote throttle control which would mean splicing into the wires of the pedal potentiometer.
My measuring of the plug found pins 5 and 6 each supply 5 Volts to the two separate pots in the pedal control, pins 2 and 3 are the earths for each of those, and pins 4 and 1 are the voltage return that provides throttle input, pin 4 varies from 0.55 V at idle to 4.70 Volts at full throttle, Pin 1 I figure is the error check signal which varies from 0.27 V to 2.35 V conveniently half the main signal so quite simple to rig up a voltage divider to provide that input.
My plan is to take one of the 5V and Ground inputs, run them through an adjustable voltage regulator then feed the output to line 4 and run the output through a simple two resistor voltage divider also to pin 1, I'm thinking by running the voltage directly like that it will mean not having to disconnect the plug from the pedal sensor with the voltages overruling it. I haven't tested anything yet while I wait for some bits to arrive but if anybody has any thoughts and experience here I'm all ears.

BTW one internal pedal pot is pins 3,4,5 the other one is 1,2,6.


This post has been edited by wankel: Nov 14 2016, 11:09 AM
wankel
post Dec 2 2016, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(loui @ Dec 2 2016, 12:20 PM)
[attachmentid=8186517]

my 7 years old BLM bumbung start leaking

how much it cost to change that piece of black rubber

call up proton service centre, they quote me a price that i felt like crying
I think that strip is only held down with glue, I would reckon an application of a bit of contact cement would be worth a shot.
You wouldn't want to pay at any Aussie car dealership service department, the charges can be astonishing, I don't think any charge less than AU$100 per hour sometimes double that or even more, also throw in the quite unnecessary things they love to add on and the result is a very ashen face.

wankel
post Dec 2 2016, 07:19 PM

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QUOTE(loui @ Dec 2 2016, 05:42 PM)
erm erm....

car is in malaysia thou...
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Of course, I'm envious about many things.

wankel
post Dec 6 2016, 03:07 PM

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QUOTE(clement8 @ Dec 6 2016, 01:33 PM)
I've found the issue. My tyre is having a big bulge on the surface. Any suggestion of tyre brand and shop in PJ area?
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I wish I'd suggested that, I've had it happen to me in the past and it's a real bugger, not something you expect and of course whenever you stop and look about for the cause the tyre will naturally be resting upon the bulge.

wankel
post Dec 25 2016, 07:38 PM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 25 2016, 04:40 PM)
UR...ended up going to the workshop because can't seem to install the bracket under the springs

Merry Christmas 🎄🎉🎈
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Daisy got a present of some yellow wheel nut covers.
Attached Image
Best wishes to all.
wankel
post Dec 25 2016, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 25 2016, 11:36 PM)
Looks like its drizzling there? Or is it just my eyes...
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Pouring rain it was, you know how it is you back the car out to do a simple job and then take photos so whatever clouds exist in the sky see you and may sure they give you an angry reception, naturally it stopped again as soon as I was finished. On the positive side it was also the coolest day for ages.
wankel
post Dec 26 2016, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 26 2016, 10:12 AM)
since i cant get the left stubborn lower bolt that holds the absorber out a few days ago, i send miss s to the workshop yesterday to install the UR ARB. with some love from the mech's air gun it was out and the installation begins.


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Many years ago I bought a 2.5 tonne jack and it really makes all the difference having a fairly decent jack when working on a car, highly recommended but you need a flat concreted area to work on. After being disappointed with cheap air powered rattle guns I bought a mains powered one a few years ago that has some real nut loosening power, again recommended. You probably would be able to drop the springs out using a standard lift jack but you'd have to remove the wheels, being young and half fit is a real aid to those types of jobs, something that's becoming only a memory for me.
Good photos, you deserve praise for taking the effort to frame and focus them, a skill that certainly isn't universal.
wankel
post Dec 26 2016, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 26 2016, 03:19 PM)
how many watts is the rattle gun you bought? my friend is looking for one but we dont know how much power is sufficient. afraid that it will not have enough "power". there was one at 1050w online but not sure if its enough...
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900 Watts.
Attached Image

This one was made for our market so has our uncommon (but quite logical) power plug. It has snapped mower bolts that use that irksome and barbaric USA size that's a bit under 10 mm all too quickly, so I'd reckon any more power would be like running a V8 to our 100 km/h speed limits.

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