Hi guys, yesterday my remote ran out of battery and so I unlocked my car using the key and when I tried to start the engine the alarm went off and the engine died. The alarm stopped like after 5 mins. After that I tried to start the engine again but it died right after starting. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Hi guys, I'm owning Saga FLX 1.3 (A)
I want to ask about CVT fluid.. My car already 5 years old and clocked 18k km only.. After I search some other forum/blog for changing CVT fluid... the owner say go SC for change CVT fluid because need to use computer setting after change CVT fluid(for check the CVT fluid level has enough or not).. & I forgot which forum/blog got other people said 1st time no need change CVT filter and then 2nd time only change..
So.. Is that OK I just buy the CVT fluid and change by myself without that CVT filter ?

Thank you very much.

Maybe that is the reason...

If I use C60 FS i guess wont opt to add oil treatment.

if using normal MXP FS, i will consider to put in the oil treatment.

Or just go to AeonBig/Tesco belasah Shell Helix Ultra RM139-159

That forum must've been the V69 thread, there were a few people saying you should change your CVT filter the second time. If your car was 3-years-old I would just change the fluid, and change the fluid with the filter for the next change. However, for your case, I would rather change both CVT fluid and CVT filter since it's close to being 6 years old.

Regarding the bold: you are going to let a mechanic change the CVT and not change it by your self right?

after change CVT fluid need follow this
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...post&id=3808088

I plan to change by myself cause my workshop got tools that can do it(I work at car accessories)... Sometimes I really worried that I made some mistake that cause gearbox kapus then is the BIG problem... That's why I would ask you guys is it worth to risk for me to change by myself or let SC do their job.. since you say like that I've decided to go to SC change CVT fluid together with filter better than get "killed" by my own hand.. *My pocket blow a big hole again~*

Another question is... is it ok that I postpone a bit longer then change CVT fluid? I really seldom drive due to super duper traffic jam and hard to find parking slot..

I've read it already... it's really.. wow ! a lot of job just changing CVT fluid ! So I better go to SC change CVT fluid better after bro LemonKnight point out my problem

it not like normal torque converter 4 Speed auto..jus drain the existing ATF oil thn add new wan..start up engine let it warm up thn good to good..
for proton case especially clutch CVT alot work to do

So u don't need to change the whole thing?

Ya lo... Last time I hang out with my friend go workshop change his civic's ATF... and their step more easy compare to CVT setting..

Hello fellow saga owners. Long time no see.

Depends on the damage bro.. for mine, he just change something and charge rm50 and after that no iafm sound..

My engine lately emit some "extra" noise.

Noticed it when driving outstation 2weeks ago running on ron97.

Driving 100-110kmh n if rev up to overtake other car will heard faintly "ta ta ta ta" noise, similar to injector sound but abit louder.

Now normal drive and idle it is just normal Campro engine sound, unless I switch to S-mode, when rev across 3k+rpm can hear it abit

Any bro here encounter such problem?

Sound "Clark Clark Clark" when turning steering (car was not moving). Any experience?
Some said:
1) Lower Arms
2) Absorbers
3) Maybe other issues

That place told me the same thing, ask me to come over 1st. Bro, which branch u went to, I see they have a few shops.

Sorry to say, i only saw Proton LED tail lamp malfunctioned, mostly Exora and Persona, always saw dim LED tail lamp, never saw once happen in MYVI (they use LED tail lamp since 1st gen Myvi). Honest one, not because want to bash Proton. LED suppose to built for long lasting, however in this case the low quality LED driver gave up 1st. My car change to those Cree LED light bulb almost 3 years now still running strong.

Anyway, i believe the LED driver was sealed inside the lamp assy and can't be dismantled, wild guess it should be a simple DC/DC buck converter with constant current driver.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 3 2016, 04:33 AM

Well, not to frighten you, you better check whether they disable your IAFM or not. If you ever saw the IAFM unit you will know the IAFM is NON REPAIRABLE by its structural nature, because the whole plastic manifold unit was sealed and can't be dismantle.

IAFM basically got 2 types of failure mode, 1 is loud knocking noise during idle especially after the engine is warm up, the noise is emitted from inside the valve, and as i said earlier, no way you can eliminate this noise by changing anything,

2nd one is krak krak noise like loose screw hitting something kind of noise (like bearing noise also), this one is due to the screw of the runner selector loose and lost, or broken. This one can fix temporary either using sealer to seal it or find a replacement screw for that (the latter is difficult due to the screw is non standard).

This is my info sharing after 3 times IAFM change within 2 weeks time, not much ppl have this kind of experience i believe.

If they really can repair they won't have dump so much of IAFM.
https://www.facebook.com/zordaqmotorsports/...?type=3&theater

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 3 2016, 05:06 AM

Actually i'm waiting someone create a new thread for new Saga, strangely launch long time ady still no official thread.

Try calculating using km/l instead of rm/km due to possible inaccurate figures caused by the constant RM value fluctuation. Mine average 13-14km/l highway and could be as low as 10-12km/l in mixed city, highway.

Combine je with this thread bro. Later new one come out this one bbye. Most of us here still stuck with our saga blm/fl/flx.