5 years ownership only, where got 6 years...

From Saga FLX to new Saga? I doubt so.

Well, new Saga just got 4 stars NCAP, and score lower than Bezza 4 stars in both adult and child occupant protection. Foresee VSC/ESC is absent for all variant as well.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 21 2016, 11:09 PM

Last saturday just changed my IAFM after it emit hopeless sound. Today change again!!!! WTF...the lemon unit start to emit loud tak tak tak noise just a day installed...i start to worry my 2nd unit is lemon or not...

According to paultan chinese, cabin noise reduce 1-2dB...trust me, which almost equal to nil.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 24 2016, 12:29 PM

Omg...stay tuned for my 2nd IAFM update...disaster.

I changed 2nd unit today, upon assemble back, cold start sound rough but OK. So i left and drive for 10km. Disaster, the same tak tak noise can be heard again after engine warm up.

Heart breaking, so i went to 2nd SC, ask the foremen IS THAT NORMAL? the foremen said is problem. He check and listen for me (using screw driver to stick to the unit hear by ear) He said impossible changed 2 unit also lemon unit, it should be the vacuum extractor that operate the IAFM runner selector either installed wrongly or kong ady, he even demonstrate to me by using the IAFM in junkyard he had. Since he sound so confident, i asked him check for me but he reject becos i just changed IAFM at another SC, he ask me go back to the 1st SC and tell them.

I went back to the 1st SC, they scratching their head as well. They attempt to change 3 unit of IAFM for me I was like shocking and asked them do they believe they are damn bad luck to get all lemon spare part?? I told them i went to another SC and been told is the vacuum extractor culprit. So the boss said lets 'try'.

After almost 2 hours of dismantle and assemble with the new vacuum extractor, tada...THE FUCKING TAK TAK NOISE STILL THERE. Oh my god. I waste total 7 hours today for nothing, and that vacuum extractor need RM200+. The boss ask me test drive 1st whether can accept or not, or else he will order 3rd unit from other SC and replace for me. That time was 6:30pm ady, he sound like i no need to pay for the vacuum extractor. The foremen even reverse my car for ready for me to go. I asked foremen i need to pay or not, he said later i go talk to the boss, but the boss din appear, so i just drove away, after 100m i drove, i heart someone shout at the garage, i feel they suddenly remember i haven't pay yet but i din stop and return back, I JUST DROVE BACK WITHOUT PAYMENT.

Tomorrow i will go to the 2nd SC, since they said vacuum extractor is kong but end up doesn't solve the problem, so i will asked them what is their opinion.

Will they use recon unit in Proton SC? are they so bad luck all their spare part are lemon unit? I really no idea now.

I'm going to ask few more SC, if they said is intake manifold problem, i will go back 1st SC to change for 3rd unit for FREE but have to pay RM200 for the vacuum extractor,
else if installation problem, i will ask alternative SC to rectify and my new vacuum extractor from 1st SC will be FREE.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 25 2016, 12:15 AM

1.3 Campro diesel yo.

Now can?

Went to the 2nd SC today...now the boss said impossible is IAFM becos change twice ady, suspect is tappet noise..no way, i guess will just left it sound like that.

3rd IAFM within 3 weeks.




This time this one come with 'QA accept' sticker dated 16 Aug 2016 which absent in previous 2 units.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 7 2016, 10:45 AM

Ori IAFM spoilt, runner screw broken.

Went to change the new one @ 17/Oct @ Proton SC, RM600+ damage, but got lemon unit. Emit knocking noise at the same day. Part didn't come with 'QA accept' blue sticker.

Went back @ 24/Oct, change to 2nd new unit. Again lemon unit. Emit knocking noise as well. Part didn't come with 'QA accept' blue sticker too.

Went back @ last Friday, claim warranty again and change the 3rd unit this time. Part come with 'QA accept' blue sticker dated Aug 2016. Problem solve and my engine noise is like new engine now.

Farking SC wasting my time, dismantle the wiring and alot of stuffs for whole 3 times which potentially could loosen the part connectivity. I suspect the 1st 2 units are the old stock unit which produced pre-2010/11. If i remember correctly the IAFM with blue QA sticker came out together with Saga FL last time, not much IAFM knocking noise issue since then.

So for those who are going to change IAFM please take note of my nightmare experience. (i doubt still have ppl watching this thread)

Just some topup for my IAFM issue.

My car is 7th year now, total mileage 162k. The original IAFM start to sound rough and some faint knocking around 20k mileage, so i just ignore it since the performance is not impair. Until half year ago the runner selector screw broken and emit crak crak noise which is similar to bearing noise (don't even know is IAFM problem until a week before i change), been heard this noise in few Saga BLM around the same age.

After change i can exactly feel the huge different in performance in the low end power, before that the car just felt won't accelerate even you floor the pedal in 1st gear from standstill. I gain mileage per tank as well (additional 50km per full tank) after change. Previosly the screw broken just left a hole from the runner side which pull the air directly from outside to the intake manifold without passing through the throttlebody explain why i loss huge amount of power.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 11 2016, 01:46 PM

I think FL and 2010 model onwards seems less IAFM issue ady.

Sorry to say, i only saw Proton LED tail lamp malfunctioned, mostly Exora and Persona, always saw dim LED tail lamp, never saw once happen in MYVI (they use LED tail lamp since 1st gen Myvi). Honest one, not because want to bash Proton. LED suppose to built for long lasting, however in this case the low quality LED driver gave up 1st. My car change to those Cree LED light bulb almost 3 years now still running strong.

Anyway, i believe the LED driver was sealed inside the lamp assy and can't be dismantled, wild guess it should be a simple DC/DC buck converter with constant current driver.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 3 2016, 04:33 AM

Well, not to frighten you, you better check whether they disable your IAFM or not. If you ever saw the IAFM unit you will know the IAFM is NON REPAIRABLE by its structural nature, because the whole plastic manifold unit was sealed and can't be dismantle.

IAFM basically got 2 types of failure mode, 1 is loud knocking noise during idle especially after the engine is warm up, the noise is emitted from inside the valve, and as i said earlier, no way you can eliminate this noise by changing anything,

2nd one is krak krak noise like loose screw hitting something kind of noise (like bearing noise also), this one is due to the screw of the runner selector loose and lost, or broken. This one can fix temporary either using sealer to seal it or find a replacement screw for that (the latter is difficult due to the screw is non standard).

This is my info sharing after 3 times IAFM change within 2 weeks time, not much ppl have this kind of experience i believe.

If they really can repair they won't have dump so much of IAFM.
https://www.facebook.com/zordaqmotorsports/...?type=3&theater

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 3 2016, 05:06 AM

Actually i'm waiting someone create a new thread for new Saga, strangely launch long time ady still no official thread.

For auto car, as long as you press the pedal, it won't roll down one. Don't worry too much. Put D, if car not willing to go or you want to go abit faster, put L. Your is CVT afterall, which is very handly especially for Genting road since the engine always kept revving at optimum RPM.

My BLM clocked 175k now, recently just changed the brake pad and disc brake rotor for 1st time ever.

Also changed were rear absorber to Wings + silicone buffer to stiffen the stock spring, front absorber to APM performMax couple with original spring. This combination just simply increase the comfort level as the car is less bouncing at uneven trunk road.

Water entering the module ady, wait it to dry or plug out. My BLM had the same issue before