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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V70, Final thread by TS

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TitanRev
post Sep 19 2016, 02:17 PM

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No more raba peha V12...I is sad..
TitanRev
post Sep 20 2016, 06:42 AM

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Sigh all mau sell saga. I'm still stuck with it no money change car
TitanRev
post Sep 20 2016, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(naveenkalai7 @ Sep 20 2016, 06:01 PM)
and im stucked with no money to modify  laugh.gif  laugh.gif
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I no modding also stock car...just do maintenance.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Sep 20 2016, 06:49 PM
TitanRev
post Nov 1 2016, 05:50 PM

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Hello fellow saga owners. Long time no see. icon_rolleyes.gif
TitanRev
post Nov 3 2016, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 3 2016, 09:36 AM)
Now baru want to appear sifu.
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busy with work. Year end already and holiday season is just around the corner so orders all rushing in
TitanRev
post Dec 20 2016, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(chyz66 @ Dec 18 2016, 08:23 PM)
My Saga FL oil tank door can't open after countless times of pulling the petrol door opener. How to fix this?
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Is the fuel door jammed or cable broken? If fuel door jam just ask someone to pull the level and you use the car key to pray it open. THen apply some grease to the hinge and the locking mechanism.

If cable putus, remove the under carpet to find the cable and if can go hardware shop buy those metal connector and crimper to crimp back the broken cable.
TitanRev
post Dec 21 2016, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(prototype @ Dec 21 2016, 02:35 AM)
dear saga flx manual transmission owners,

what is your speed (km/h) when you are at 3000rpm/5th gear ?
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about 100-110
TitanRev
post Dec 24 2016, 11:56 AM

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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone
TitanRev
post Feb 6 2017, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(maui802 @ Feb 6 2017, 02:38 AM)
Hello everybody, I have a 2 year old Saga 1.3 SV (MT). Would like to join the family here smile.gif and also hoping to learn a thing or two from all the sifus here.

So I've been quite happy with the stock SV since I got it. But I think I screwed up my shocks when I hit a bump at speed. So I think its time to give my ride some love hehe.. I dont know anything about modding cars so I humbly ask for you guy's advice as this will be my first attempt at it.

So I'm thinking of changing my stock rims to 15" sport rims. I drive quite enthusiastically and would like to have better traction so maybe wider tyres will be a good idea. Suggestions?

And I will also need to change my absorbers as well. Perhaps something that will improve handling without sacrificing too much comfort for daily drive? I read someone recommending Titan Suspensions. Are they any good?

Finally, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this. I would apologize in advance if this post belongs in another thread as I just joined. Any advice will be much appreciated
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15inch will have a lot of tires option from UHP to extreme tires. Tires provide only part of the traction your suspension setup is also important.

On suspension wise, if you want wider tuning ability, a coilover will be a good long run option as it is serviceable also. I'm currently on FTuned Race-Comp spec and have no issue on daily drive just need to tune the suspension to a softer setting. Ftuned also has good customer service.
TitanRev
post Feb 6 2017, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(devildevil87 @ Feb 6 2017, 11:57 AM)
I plan to DIY manual gearbox oil change.
Anyone who is expert in how to refill the oil?
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The refill hole is on the front. Remove the clutch cable cover then you will see a speed sensor socket. Remove the socket and remove the speed sensor for refill.
TitanRev
post Feb 6 2017, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(maui802 @ Feb 6 2017, 05:06 PM)
@n3w @TitanRev

Thank you both for the great input. What you suggested @n3w is exactly what I was looking into upgrading. I have a few questions regarding the details of the mods, hopefully the sifus here can enlighten me.

Suspensions
- OK so I will keep the stock shocks, and just upgrade to the lower, stiffer spring. Any recomendations on which brand and type I should be looking for?

Wheels
- I see a lot of people with some fat tires and at first thought it was quite silly but now I think it looks quite sporty since it gives the car a wider, more aggressive stance. The SV comes with what I like to refer to as "bicycle tires" cause they're so narrow lol. So what are the pros and cons of having wide tires that stick further out than the fenders?

Finally, I've been thinking about bolt on turbos..  I understand that there will be reliability issues and stuff. Would like to know more about what you guys think. Is it a good idea? Between cost/reliability/power gain, is it a worthwhile venture?

Thank you in advance everyone. You have been a great help so far <3
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I would prefer to have proper offset and width of rims rather than having them sticking out of the fender. 15 inch 6.5/7J offset +35 would be enough coz your rear will rub the fender with lowering spring.

For daily driven better to just maintain NA.
TitanRev
post Feb 9 2017, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(maui802 @ Feb 8 2017, 06:07 PM)
Hey guys, I'm back with some new upgrades for my humble SV.

Here's what I've done so far:
195/55 R15 sport rims
RE0003 tires (friggin love these omg)
GAB sport springs
UR front strut bar

Total damage to the wallet was RM2,550. I was second guessing my decision at first, telling myself I'm gonna have buyers remorse later.

I wasn't expecting the results tbh. No buyers remorse after getting into the drivers seat and pulling out into the road. In fact, it was the best decision ever! The car feels like a car at last. And the drive is so friggin sweet. I'm not sure which of the upgrades played the biggest part in the handling improvement, between them tires, springs and strut bar. But the end results are amazing.

Next upgrades will be power upgrades, and I would like to ask the sifus here for some advice. I've decided it's best to go the NA route, and I would like to know what's the best way to make the 1.3L S4PE shine.

I appreciate your thoughts on the following mods:

Lightened crank pulley
Throttle body upgrade
4-2-1 exhaust system
Cold air intake (found conflicting info abt these)
Fuel regulator
ECU (reflashable?)
Any other suggestions are much appreciated!
Edit: I took pics of the process, but not sure if anyone is interested to see them. If you guys would like me to post then do let me know ya!  Paiseh
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Please do post pic, pics are welcomed and information sharing is good.

On the topic of power upgrades, you need to be prepared that once you going that direction your FC is going to be not really that good anymore.
What you posted above is the basic mods but I don't think you need a Cold Air intake, if you remain the standard airbox which I advice to keep it. For the fuel regulator as the FLX has no return if you want to do that, you need to change the fuel rail and route a return fuel line to your fuel pump assembly, remove the stock fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel pump assembly.

Reflash is also a good idea it is a more refine tuning but try to reflash after your hardware mod so that you can gain most from your hardware.

For a stock NA engine to gain power more has to be done on the engine itself. Most of the mods are just supporting. Improve the flow of the engine, Combustion ratio, valve duration, overlap and timing, reduce parasitic lost, porting..etc..etc..

NA engine is quite expensive to gain power and the gain is not very very much so don't put your expectation too high when you mod on NA route.

QUOTE(n3w @ Feb 8 2017, 09:56 PM)
Post pictures bro brows.gif

That was a big budget. Guess all in one. Further consult sifu TitanRev, his ride is on very heavy modification setup for NA.
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Stock car only..
TitanRev
post Feb 10 2017, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(n3w @ Feb 9 2017, 05:31 PM)
I would advise you to start getting used to your new setup first. I have seen people with heavily modified rides but never able to drive their ride properly. I certainly have more respect for car drivers who drives their underpower ride quick & safely any time; they certainly know the limits of their cars and does not drive like a mad person endangering the safety of other drivers on the road.

Drive for a few months, and since you're on manual, try picking up some advanced pedal skills such as rev-matching and heel & toe. Useful for tracking days & I strongly believe it is useful even for everyday driving. My daily drive to work consists of long stretches of road and after few kilometres a traffic light - I learn downshifting, rev-matching, and heel & toe to and from work. Some hot tips: identify your optimum 'revolutions per minute' (RPM) per gear and rev-matching first; then move on to heel & toe, may get very tough at first because you must learn to modulate the correct and suitable pressure on the brake pedal & to give the right amount of boot to the throttle to have it not jerk at downshifts. Over rev it wont be nice, under rev your car would jerk.

In my humble opinion Proton has positioned the throttle pedal & brake correctly for heel & toe shifting; once your feet steps on the brake, it should be level enough for your heel to boot the throttle.

Try transitioning between these two items and adapt how your car pick up in corners. You may want to try it on an empty road first - may have some hiccups at first, but once you're smooth enough you tend to do that every day. Learn from Youtube videos for a headstart.

Just constant practise and you would absolutely love your new found ride & skills. Once you get it your body would remember it & you could do it at any manual cars.  :thumbsup:
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Fuiyoh sifu giving driving tips I note down 1st
TitanRev
post Apr 19 2017, 06:13 PM

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Hi guys, it's been a while since I last post here..
TitanRev
post Apr 20 2017, 01:10 PM

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QUOTE(JamesBotak @ Apr 19 2017, 06:17 PM)
Hi sifuuu rclxm9.gif
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Not sifu...still newbie..how's your car doing?

Update: my saga now has become a full time project/track car already but still can drive on street if I want to. but it has been laying in the house for close to 1 month already doing some maintenance works and upgrades. I've changed to a light weight battery from the Type R and will still be relocating the battery pack to the rear or center of the car. Already have the BMW wiring on hand. Radiator upgrade, re-wrap of header, re-route the OCT system.

still looking to get a 2nd set of rims to mount some semi slicks for open category. suspension will be due for a tune up and full service in June + corner weighing. Also need to do some work on the gearbox ratio as currently the ratios are quite long

QUOTE(dares @ Apr 19 2017, 06:17 PM)
Subaru tered that way ------->>>>
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sad.gif
Subaru wife drive la not me i drive weekend only or going outstation....Hahahaha

TitanRev
post Apr 20 2017, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Apr 20 2017, 01:18 PM)
FD2R tered that way ---------->>
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here where got FD2R thread oh. sad.gif
TitanRev
post May 16 2017, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(carcraze66 @ May 5 2017, 07:33 PM)
Hey all sifus,

Ive got 1 problem here on changing my number plate lights, on the rear boot there's a carpet with metal ring thingy clip right?

So what should i do with the clip actually? Turn it out? Or jz snap it out? It wont seems to come out unlike the normal plastic clip

Hope sifu who has removed before can enlighten me pleaseeee

Tenkiu
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You mean the carpet thing on the trunk lid? where the license bulb sits? if that, the carpet is held by double sided tape and also the metal hinge thing. It's very difficult to remove.
TitanRev
post May 16 2017, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(CalvinH @ May 16 2017, 10:55 AM)
Hey guys, bought flx last year.

Really frustrated with this car.
Now at 4.5km already used 2 services but still have problem. Next service is 10km.

Problems that i have
-handbreak have to very pull very high or else car will move when put D.(serviced once but problem came out again)
-acceleration feels something is pulling you, traffic movingg slow will make my car jerk like driving manual.
If you let go the accelerator pedal the car will feel like its breaking hard instead of slowing down.
-car pickup is so slow that it can cause accident if the car coming not slowing down when you wanted to turn.
-when turn steering wheel to the max my car just die ?????(fixed but car shaking when turn to max)
-gear button stuck.
God this car not even a year yet.(new car)
Any advice for the services?

I feel like wanted to trade in this buy perodua.
It was before perodua bezza launch. So i bought too early

Thanks in advance
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The handbrake actually you can ownself adjust from the level inside the car under the PU cover. Just get a 10mm socket to further tighten it if you want.

But please always put the car in N aka neutral when you want to use your handbrake. Of cos the car will move when it is in D. Your handbrake can only take so much trying to stop the car moving. Please know that most of the stopping force your car have is from the front brakes not the rear so no matter how any time you go SC complain they can only tighten the rear brake shoes so much. Tighten too much you risk jamming the rear brakes or snapping your hand brake cable if someones pulls the handbrakes too hard.

Your acceleration is slow and feel like pulling, perhaps you have ask the SC to tighten the rear brakes so much that it is literally grinding against your rear drums already.

Even you buy Perodua or other car, you put in D and pull handbrake overtime the car will still can move once the handbrake cant hold the car.

Please understand the meaning of Parking brake.
TitanRev
post May 17 2017, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(wankel @ May 16 2017, 09:38 PM)
I haven't cast an inquisitive eye on Daisy's rear brakes but my experience with cars made over the last 50 years is they all have self adjusting shoes and the parking brake setup should be pretty well a one off thing after fitting a replacement cable or whatever.
The crunch is that some brakes set their adjustment by braking whilst reversing and others adjust merely by pulling the parking brake up and down a few times, an issue with that method is that in the USA almost universally their folk regard a parking/emergency brake as something covered in spiders and scorpions, and would never allow their hands to touch it, that isn't usually an issue in over-regulated Australia where not operating a parking brake whilst parked is punishable by a massive fine or jail, the point being that parking brake adjustment can be lost by not doing some things the designers considered normal, some people never have reason to reverse either.
As to the SAT button, I repeat what I've said before, its sole purpose is to remind us why we bought a CVT, to avoid the jerk of gearchanges, so we buy our new car, test the SAT button to feel its operation, then put things back to normal CVT operation and live happily ever after.
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our saga don't have self adjusting rear brake shoe for the parking brake. When my car left the factory it was about 2-3 clicks over time the parking brakes gets more and more clicks to engage properly. IINM the last I adjust the parking brake is already needing 6-7 clicks to engage.
TitanRev
post Jun 1 2017, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(goohtj @ May 19 2017, 10:07 PM)
yes. bearing problem
the bearings are undersize, especially the rear .
these are the 2 issue that make this saga famous

1. makan minyak
2. bearing rosak
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Mine 4 years already. Track use and road use. No issue on bearing. I'm running extreme tires somemore.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 1 2017, 12:18 PM

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