*2nd time typing this out.... just realized my earlier reply didnt go through i guess....
whoa 3 years old? with this budget, you should be looking at local cars.

maivee
-general go to car.
-reliable

iriz
-very similar to the maivee
-quite limited rear space
-loaded with safety features
-more toys than the myvi

preve/persona
-you can only afford the campro models (for the preve)
-both fairly large
-both good for long distance driving
-not as good in town. its large with a high backside making parking difficult (if you are not used to it)
-fc isnt great
-fairly cheap to maintain, fairly reliable

latio
-i think you can barely afford a latio but its one of the cars that can fall within your budget
-reliable
-parts do cost alittle more than the others but they do last.
-all in all a good car

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

theres a reason such nice nippy cars cost so little... parts are on the expensive side.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

car dealers will jack prices up as much as they want, there is no fixed or recommended amount of processing fees. In the end its really up to them how much they want to scalp off you.

only thing i can suggest to people is to take into account the whole package, Car price, included whole package (usually insurance, roadtax and bs processing fee) into account when making a purchase. If all in all it seems like a good deal, go ahead.

yup, marketing at its best.... let me tell you, most of the cases, they get the car for very low prices, then jack the prices up once, that would be the advertised price. They then make some more when charging you for insurance and road tax and call it 'processing fees'. Solong as the final price is alright to you, its alright. Its just those who jack it up so much the price becomes too stupid to look at.

i have seen them take:
-e46's for as low as under 18k, then car resurfaces for 25k (to be fair, this is alright)
-gdb v7 sold for under 50k eventually advertised for 80k (after repainting and detailing) - now this dealer lied and said car had original paint and all that
-celicas go for 30k (maybe less) , advertised for 45k later. But curiously, after the dealer took it, mileage went down by almost 100k, owner magically called a teacher (he was not), car interior replaced with the original parts (when i saw it, it was nothing like that), and the car became a virgin again, owner actually had a turbo bolted on before that. (he was selling the car cause it needed a little work and had some 'issues'. I pity the poor guy who took over this car and i pray for him.
^ this is just a few samples.

yay zenix is back!!!!

itu iafm has a few 'issues' punya.... its prone to getting screwed up 'tak tak tak tak tak' and its sad torque dip (which i feel isnt really a problem if you are not the heavy footed kinda guy).
the cps on the other hand is actually less problematic but can start drinking fuel if you are not careful (applies to vteks and meveekks, just less hardcore).

2.0tsi has a wet dsg.... which accordingly suffers less issues. pretty car but does come with its faults your call....

IAFM itself does help with the dip... but its nothing great. when it starts going bad(jammed in one configuration) ... the torque dip will come back. only way to repair is t replace it or 'upgrade' it to the intake manifold from the gen2 which is made of metal instead of plastic but is smaller which means performance is again reduced (iriz intake is apparently also swapable, not too sure bout this though)

far as maintenance goes... from what the satria neo club told me... wear and tear parts cost more or less the same other than the timing belt which costs abit more on the cps. So yeah, when someone says its more expensive, its more to do with the initial production costs than maintanance.

*admittedly, am abit biased when it comes to potong engines (especially the older ones), in my head, they are subpar engines which can compete (just barely) with japanese engines 10 years older than itself.

[quote=adlirazali,Jan 4 2017, 04:19 PM]
[/quote]

HAHA couldn't agree more. just the other day the seller told me the previous owner of the car is a lecturer, female some more . i dont care if he wants to make up stories to sell up his car, as long as the car's condition is good.

so i'm going to see the car sometime next week. if anyone could share some extra tips other than the regular basic stuffs, it would be great.

[/quote]
hehe to me... just look at the car as it is.... whatever you see is what you get. If he says something has been changed ignore it UNLESS he has the receipts to back his claims up. 1 year+ ago, what i did was track the previous owners of the cars.... when viewing the cars, i asked for the grant and took down the owners details.... at least i can try ask the owner if the car was decent.(assuming he wana layan you, surprisingly, 2/3 of the owners actually took time to chat with me while the rest langsung no peduli saya ). join owner clubs... sometimes owners there nak let go... or other times, they might know the history of that car you want to see (applies to those less common cars)

new and used car prices cheaper over there..... but maintanance/spare parts the same?

ouch... well then, its something you should take into account as well..

looked into this LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG and HARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRD .......................

Let me help you save your time and effort
-you may buy it.
-You may hide it in a garage somewhere.
-You may use most of its parts as spare parts.

And contrary to popular opinion,
-You may NOT use it in Sepang.... iirc, even legitimate track cars have some form of documentation that comes along with it cause by right, scrap cars have to be chopped in half before it is allowed to be imported into Malaysia. (yes i know some people offer 'services' to import scrap cars as a whole but that involves under table money along the way so no, not legal)

talking about Singaporean scrap cars, you cannot even buy the engine block and register it on your carcause theres no documentation. (yes I also looked into that)
Sg cars usually get imported illegally as spare part cars, or cloned and driven like regular cars (illegal and u r so screwed if caught)

nonono dont even touch that, if u want go report to police je.... those are cloned cars....
some poor guy whose car is gona get cloned and suffers cause these a$$h@les

sorry...... i cannot understand what you are trying to achieve

-aunt wants to sell her old civic to you
-aunt wants to buy a one year old 2016 civic (but why??? you mean 2017 civic?)
-you hate your myvi and want to trade cars with her.....

few points....
-aunt wants a civic not your myvi, how can you trade with her (this makes no sense), maybe you should SELL your car first then buy the civic off her (also your myvi isnt valued anywhere near her civic, hope you have spare cash ready unless she is willing to sell it cheaply to you)
-aunt wants a new car... i assume she does not need the cash from the old civic to purchase the new civic (otherwise this makes no sense)



1)assuming aunt needs money to buy the new civic quick
-you can just buy the civic off your aunt then sell your myvi off, simple yes
-option 2 would be to trade in the myvi(if trade in is accepted) then topup the amount for her civic (myvi gets traded off, her civic gets registered as yours, she gets new civic, simple)
2)assuming you poorfeg, no money to buy civic + she is willing to wait
-you collect money 1st then follow the options above (or get a loan)
-you sell myvi 1st then pay her off for the civic (assuming you can raise cash for the dif)
3)you poorfeg + she cannot wait
-give up dude
-ahlong (disapproved by PPIM)
-PPIM says better mencuri

**there are more options, brain x jalan properly








and yeah^ if there are loans... you have to settle them 1st.....
if cannot settle loans, dont even bother owning a nicer car..... not a wise financial decision

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Jan 9 2017, 03:01 PM

well im not so familiar when it comes to loans..... but from what i understand;
end of the day, you need to payoff your myvi before you can get rid of it..... this is the first issue you are facing and have to deal with before you can carry out your plan....

lol..... my car's milage is lower @x@ 130k, 22 years old

u see *chasis n engine number change*, you know something is wrong dah~

both also pretty reliable things, saga being new, well comes with warranty.
that generation of the city came with a 'normal' torque converter tranny so its abit simpler than a proton in that aspect and results in a slightly higher fc than the earlier and later models.
safety wise also, far as the drier is concerned, similar je....

city
+larger
+somewhat nicer interior
-used
-costs more to maintain

saga
+general maintanance cheaper (onlything more mahal should be the tranny related bits)
+new interior is so much nicer than the old one....
+warranty
+comes with pretty decent features for a new car at this price
-local brand, potong name
-cvt long term still a small question mark.. so far, all good, just sluggish (cvt's natural state)

abit ambiguous? really depends on how much you drive, safer bet would ofc be the vios....... less bits also means that less bits can go wrong and being a hybrid, im not sure if they have the expertise to help you here incase things do go really bad.

WAHTT!!!
later when you want to defrost the guy..... if its already sealed, let it defrost before opening it up, if its not wrapped up yet, make sure you wrap it up, defrost, bukak, let condensation defrost then only guna

just fyi, illegal....
-you need to beli the write off car (make sure its destroyed and not passed on somewhere else) AND the sg car to be cloned.

bagus. oh ya, all those dead bangkais gona be stuck in the machine.....

well...... i think theres an ongoing thread on this? one owner popped up i think??

if you need/want the extra space, nothing wrong with the idea.

assuming you want to buy the car (not doing it yourself), it really depends on you. modified cars are sort of a grey area as to how much they are worth. I cannot answer this due to a few reasons,
1)dont know how well kept
2)dont know enough details,
-i)you mention k swap, which model exactly, the standard k21, the dc5 k20, the ep3 k20, the fd k20? (tip: look at the cam covers and intakes to tell em apart, assuming those were carried over)
-ii)Brake system, r brembo swap? or a pnp bbk, or just brakes of a larger car?
-iii)many brands, many setups, different values (and u might not even like em in the 1st place)
-iv)bodykit, up 2 u
3)a swapped car done right is no issue, but one done at a budget, is never a good sign.
4)you do not know if the car has been trashed about, not many people buy a car, build it up and then pamper em (there are a few who do this but not so common)
5)i hope its a manual, the auto wont get you anywhere
6)tyres, well check age+ thread wear+ condition i guess.
*basically you need lots of research and a different kind of eye when it comes to cars like this... really..... alot of dealers throw alot of bs when trying to sell a car like this (speaking from experience)

now if you want to do the mods yourself, its really up to you BUT one point, the chassis as a whole isnt as good or valuble as the ep or fd and nowhere as valube as an actual R chassis. Those chassis-es are stronger (you cannot weld your chassis to match their strengths unless you want to do so illegally).
one thing i cannot stress is... You will NEVER get back the sum spent on the car.... you might get a fraction of its value back but thats it, people build cars for their pleasure and those who build them expecting to be able to get back most of what they put into it are often caught unaware. Building it for yourself is nothing like reconditioning a car to be sold.

point tho, assuming the car's value is 30k + another 60k of mods on top of that, honestly i would not go with that UNLESS the car has sentimental value AND you know you that this is going to be a long term car.

few points:

1)why dont you create a different thread for this, you should get better advise there (this thread is about more about what car to get

2)if you are new to car modifications, i personally don't suggest you do this.... (unless you are loaded and really dont mind spending this kind of money on the car).... personally dont think its a good idea to jump right into it if you havent really done your research. fyi i have seen these cars go for 50-60k all in and those pretty decent units (on paper at least) actually sat for quite a while on mudah before actually getting sold.

3)anyway, technically speaking, nothing wrong with shoving that kind of power into a car like this, its certainly doable but in terms of handling, if you do push the car to its limits, you just wont have the same amount of stiffness compared to the 'real' type r (given same mods as well ofc). firstly cause the real type r's were much stronger from factory AND given the suspension setup of the civic you are talking about, its technically inferior to the eg,ek and fd... this is one of the civics that wasn't really setup to be sporty.
If you want outright speed, the eg/ek hatch k-swapped civics are bloody fast due to their weights but these models are expensive due to their rarity.

4)Now, as to why they recommend the dc5, its all down to cost, the dc 5 is the oldest and cheapest sub-200ps k20 there is (technically least powerful too, but meh, not by much) suspension and braking just needs to be able to deal with the newfound power, not an issue, aftermarket parts support is pretty good for these hondas. also its not the most powerful engine honda ever created, that lies with quite a few other models actually..... even if you discount the nsx.
**now with this kind of budget, i would look at the k24-r (rojak)~

6)back to one, open another thread, we can have a chat there hehe,


now... as far as how i should answer questions on this thread, i should be offering you an alternative to this unit if i dont think thats a good idea.... (i dont, for a few reasons, seems like you haven't done enough homework yet but i guess everyone has to start somewhere right?)
given the car value of 30k + mods excess of 50k, im assuming you have about 90k to throw at the car, at least 60k being cash)

alternative 1 :civic ep3 (about 50-70k CASH)
+this thing is great, its fast and nimble
+its the real type r, so you wont lose as much as you would with your car if you converted it
+given the same money vs your car if swapped, this thing will eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner
+for the money, this is a better car
+proper suspension setup
-abit rare, some bits are slightly more difficult to come by
-looks abit mild (i like fast-ish cars that look mild)
-its a hatchback
-does not look ahbengish (difficult to do so too!)
sample 1

alternative 2 :civic fn (about 70-90k CASH for the non-r, and 90-???k for the r)
-this thing is not really that fast
+it looks good
-as crappy suspension as the one found as in your car
+it looks good
-abit rare, some bits are slightly more difficult to come by
+it looks good
+did i mention, it looks good?
sample 1
sample 2
sample 3
**given your 90k budget i would easily suggest this cause all in all its a better simpler option)

alternative 3 :civic fd (not r, just some converts) (70k+)
-this thing is fast (i see most have the top tier fd or euro accord k20, not the older dc5 unit)
+it looks pretty good
-decent suspension
+aftermarket support is PLENTYFULLLLLL
-not a real type r but yeah....
sample 1

alternative 4 :euro accord-r (cl7/9) (65k++) pls look at the 2.0=r models, the 2.4 models were not type r's unless they were manually mated together to form the k24-r
-this thing is powerful
+it looks pretty decent
+large car, practical
-also means its abit on the fat side (tho being an R model, its actually not as fat as you think... its abit raw for a d-segment accord
sample 1

**i have a few other suggestions.... but abit older.... AND the options above are not really the cheapest i have seen, its only what i can find atm, you can probably join some car clubs to look for a decent unit.

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Jan 16 2017, 01:28 PM

his is the pre-fd unit.... xtaulah why he mau fly to his destinations so cepat.... nanti exiden..... gg

pre-registered cars..... those are basically a new car,the only history they should have is a history of sitting and waiting for an owner..... do you mean recon? or something else??