Mmm, from my experience, the leather conditioner (or moisturizer as u call it) doesnt stain your clothes, it is absorbed by the leather to soften it and give it its stretchability again. Of course, dont apply too thick, and also any excess conditioner should be buffed off.

Leather seats are generally quite easy for home detailer standard. I dont remove/detach the seats to hose them down or anything so heavy duty.

U need a few tools and a good APC (or diluted dishsoap works just fine) and a few microfiber towels and u can go to town with it. Start off by vacuuming all the crevices of the seat, then use the following:

1) 1 soft bristle brush (maybe paint brush), for general cleaning leather thats not very dirty. Spray some APC and agitate, then wipe off with microfiber towel.
2) 1 medium bristle brush for abit heavier scrubbing if soft bristle brush doesnt remove the stain or dirt, process same as no.1
3) 1 spray bottle with APC or diluted dishsoap just for soaping purposes, spray on brush instead of seat to reduce soaking the seat
4) Plenty of clean microfiber towels to wipe off soapy residue
5) 1 bucket of clean water to rinse microfiber towels as u go along.

This generally works for cleaning the entire car's interior, not just leather seats. After all the seats are done, then use a typical applicator pad (like wax pad), apply leather conditioner and rub it evenly onto leather surface. Once its thin and even, wipe off excess residue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtkDG6pNkI4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2yiBJSlnuw

Here are some videos for your reference. Just omit the vacuum part after scrubbing unless u have a wet/dry vacuum cleaner.

Mmm, I find that steering wheel can also do the same, but maybe do a test spot first. Rightfully it shouldnt make the steering wheel slippery. If it does, then just use your APC to clean off the leather conditioner.

Here are some reading for difference between ceramic and glass coating:

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4489312/all
http://cargroomingsingapore.net/general/ca...g-a-comparison/
http://<referral link removed>/my/lifestyle/paint-coating
https://autodetailingpro.ca/glass-coating-v...eramic-coating/

While there are some technical differences, however I believe in many shops and suppliers use the word ceramic and glass interchangeably, somewhat blurring the lines of what they are actually selling.

Based on what u're trying to achieve, these are my thoughts:

1) Coating: stone chips - NO, scratches - NO (u will scratch the coating instead of your clearcoat, or worse the scratch is deep enough to go past your coating into your clearcoat), watermarks - NO, natural shine - MAYBE (coating tends to make it wetter and shinier than usual).

2) Film wrap: stone chips - YES (to certain extent), scratches - YES (u scratch the flim instead of your clearcoat), watermarks - MAYBE (watermarks can still bake and etch into anything under hot sun), natural shine - MAYBE (flim tends to reduce the natural shine abit, but not to the point of being matte).

Do bear in mind the price difference between coating and film wraps are quite significant, so best do homework on the prices also.

Hmm, not really. Maybe just less cold feel of metal maybe.

Hmm, honestly that burn part I am not too sure, but I do see alot of ppl put protection film or tinting on headlamps, it does turn yellow of even burnt over time, regardless of their car has daytime running lights or not. Also, I remember JPJ tend to kacau when it comes to lights and film wrap or tinting, so best double check with the film installer.

I think the idea places to do film wrap is front bumper, front bonnet and side mirror. If possible also add a small piece of film wrap at the door handle area to reduce possibility of fingernail scratching when opening the door.

Read back latest 2-3 pages of this thread, got talk about interior care.

That's the latest Honda Civic right? I have a similar scuff on the exact same spot, lol. Think mine happened when I went down a very low curb outside my house and the soft suspension bumped down and bumper scratched the curb. I havent done anything to it yet, but plan to probably sand, filler and touchup paint it when I feel semangat, hehe...

Mmm, paint is not meant to fill much. A proper filler is better as u can fill, then sand flat before touchup. I think the common filler for deep car scratches is Bondo, which can be found in ACE hardware. The filler paste is red in colour.

As linkin182 mentioned, try using a microfiber cloth and some compound or polish cream to rub and see if it disappears. Since your lower fender and door is not flush, then perhaps it is best to polish that edge with your door open.

Yes, that is the one, but sorry I dont know how much it costs. I only remember seeing it in Ace Hardware and kept it in my memory in case one day I needed to buy it.

Try feel the parts where the paint has been rubbed off if the surface is rough or still smooth. If rough, then maybe abit of fine spot sanding would be best before touching up.

For sanding could try 1000 grit first, then refine further as u go along.

Most DA machines for first time users of DA polishers will have some hand and arm aches, not to mention body aches from pending positions while using the machine. This is normal, and should pass quite quickly. The key is practice makes perfect. Apart from just the common talk about machine, pad and polishes, learning about arm stretch, body position are also important to make sure u dont tire or injure yourself when polishing your car.

My advice is take breaks in between your polish cycles to make sure u dont overstrain and make your polishing process more enjoyable.

Windows watermarks are best to polish out with cerium oxide based polish. Carpro Ceriglass is one option u can consider. However, I have tried it before and it doest take quite a few rounds to completely remove the severe watermarks. If light watermarks, think 1-2 rounds and u should be done.

Cheap and quick fix, touchup paint.

If not mistaken, u buy the kit for touchup paint, it comes in 4 bottles and one of it is alcohol already.

Step 2 sanding only necessary your scratch is very severe causing uneven sharp texture on the body.

Step 3 also is only necessary if the chip or scratch is very deep.

Touchup paint is only usable if your paint is original from manufacturer. So check your paint colour from the colour chart and your owner manual.

Agree with VeeJay on this matter. In our local car wash center market, it is difficult, if not impossible, to find a really good car wash. As detailing enthusiasts ourselves, the best u may find out there could be ranging from just good to "I will never go back there again!".

There are a few things that I have never or rarely seen a typical car wash center do:

1) Pre-soak, rinse and soak again
2) Use 2 bucket washing method
3) Use more than 1 type of brush or mitt for washing rims
4) Use proper wash mitt to scrub the car
5) Wipe different areas using different dedicated microfiber towels

I guess we have to remember that car wash centers are business, and due to price competition, they need to run the volume as fast as possible, hence quality is generally sacrificed. In using a car wash center service, u have to accept that they will never be as good and careful as self washing. My personal advice is to trial and error multiple shops until u find one u are comfortable with, and stick with that as long as their service quality dont change significantly.

Exactly my point. Price competition. Also, the bigger majority just want their car clean and preferably fast, so speed also pushes quality down.

As per my point above. In car wash biz there's 3 components, price, speed, quality, but we're allowed to only choose 2.

If we take price and speed, then quality suffers. If we choose price and quality, then speed suffers. If we choose speed and quality, then price suffers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3FeDDIJqUg

Just sharing, also my 2 sen on his argument in Malaysian context is price difference isnt as much as he says. In lazada, Megs Ultimate Fast Finish is selling at RM128, Carpro Reload 500ml is RM176.

One comes in a full bottle of liquid (majority would be solvent to keep the SIO2 suspended), the other comes in an aerosol can (majority compressed air). Liquid could dry over long periods of time kept in a bottle, aerosol can releases its gas over long periods of time also.

His justification that SIO2 exists everywhere and used in other industries cheaply is also abit lax as every industry value-adds differently to a raw material to create its final output. Perhaps Carpro is more expensive due to international marketing, but doesnt mean its product need to be much cheaper just because the raw material in its foundation is cheap. It's like saying water running to our taps should be free just because we can find water everywhere.

Well, it is a niche market. Niche markets tend to have specialist companies making more, because it isnt as easy for others to enter. Big general companies like 3M could penetrate deeper and flood the detailing market, but if based on their entire product range other than detailing, then detailing products account for only a small portion of their total revenue, so not worth the effort. Thats where specialist companies like Meguiars make more.

Yup, like it or hate it, Meguiars M105 is quirky but effective. It still has its uses in my arsenal, but more experimentation would be required to see where it fits best.