It depends on how u define detailing and what u are trying to achieve. As with all cars, they are usually parked under sun and rain in an open car park warehouse while waiting for buyers. Usually when dealer about to deliver car, they will send to a cheap car wash to clean it, and either get them to give a quick rub of cleaner wax or 1 round AIO polish if the condition isnt so good, but if it is not so bad they may just hand polish small spots at their office.

Upon getting your car, generally it should look quite good from the get-go, and if u just wash regularly and also wax regularly from then on, most of the time it would be okay. However, if u are the meticulous type and want to see a flawless paint, then sending it for some light detailing would probably be recommended. One way to see if dealer did a poor job touching up as u say is to use some good torchlights to inspect the paint and look for scratches ans swirls.

Just to share with u, last year my wife bought brand new Toyota Altis (black), and when brought home and inspected, I can see some scratches and light swirls in many places (made even more obvious because its black colour). So my wife didnt drive the car for a few weeks while I slowly detailed all the initial defects and applied coating on it. But thats just me, and everyone can be different.

As g88 said, toilet brushes are not recommended because the bristles are usually much harder. Wheel bristle brushes should be medium hardness so that its easier to go in and out between the spokes.

https://ezbuy.my/product/51000002958099.htm...20000000.22.0.0
https://ezbuy.my/product/51000139293939.htm...20000000.22.0.0

These type of wheel brushes are recommended because they are also bendable, so u can bend the top part to maybe 45-60 degrees to brush harder to reach parts of inner wheel spokes.

https://ezbuy.my/product/39882022.html?keyw...20000000.22.0.0

This type of wash mitt I personally recommend to use to clean the face of your rims (and also wheel arches if u want), as it is wearable and easy to twist and turn around the spoke edges.

For the tyres itself, u can use a typical toilet floor scrubber brush to brush it with soap.

Hope this helps.

I think the price is good, cuz Meguiars official Lazada store is having good discount right now with free delivery.

Hmm, saw a few video reviews and also demos on this product. Not sure what sort of chemical it is, but if there are any harsh or flamable chemicals in the product, it will be tough to ship here even via other non-direct means. Perhaps u wanna consider respraying instead?

Depending on the size of area that u want to respray, I think u can shop around when it comes to respray prices. There are many cheap and expensive places to do it.

Alternatively, if u dont have the budget but still want to get it done urgently, u can always consider DIY respray. There are plenty of videos teaching on this also.

Agree. Personally I think these kinda DIY can become hobby and also basic skill. Always good to learn.

Oh, dont forget sandpaper also, very important apart from spraycans.

Just sharing an easy wash method for the less detailed home detailers and busy folks. If u have difficulty finding time to wash your own car, consider quick washing at night. After dinner/prayers, performing a quick wash is a short exercise and not so sweaty and u can do it before your last shower for the night. All u need:

1) 1 Wash bucket with car wash soap and water
2) 1 Wash mitt
3) 1 large drying towel.

This method basically is for u to wash only body panels and windscreens. No washing rims, no drying door jambs, no interior cleaning. Quick wash top to bottom and quick dry, can be done in 1/2 hour (depending on car size).

Advantages:
1) Fast, should settle within half hour or less
2) Convenient, minimum washing tools used
3) Can be done any time

Disadvantages:
1) Higher risk of introducing swirls
2) Areas not cleaned this round will have more work next round
3) Not recommended to use with ONR


Just my 2 sen.

Haha, only applicable if u take shower at night before sleep lor.

Honestly, the paint swelling idea is new to me, though I'm not sure if paint swelling is linked to DA haze, especially after finishing polish stage. I have seen the unexpected DA haze after ipa wipedown, but unable to ascertain if its due to my polishing not done right or ipa issue. Personally I dont use IPA wipedowns anymore prior to applying protection (replaced it with diluted dishsoap spray and clean, more effort, same result, no harm to paint), but even when I used to do it, it is fairly diluted, so I dont think diluted IPA can swell a fully cured clearcoat to the extent of potentially damaging it.

His 2nd part about diff products design based on brand, this is well known, but also pretty much up to subjective debate. Not everyone sticks to a single brand regime because no single brand provides the best in class in every area of detailing. Mixing and matching is expected, trial and error is also expected.

Perhaps let me try to break them down for u so that easier for u to figure out:

For general car washing:
1) 2 buckets
2) 1 Wash mitt
3) 2 Grit Guard
4) 1 Car Shampoo

For rims washing:
1) Wheel cleaner (optional, else use back car wash soap)
2) 1 Wash mitt (dont mix with car wash mitt)
3) 1 wheel brush (https://ezbuy.my/product/51000002958099.html?keywords=wheel%20brush&baseGpid=20000000345110&pl=2&ezspm=1.20000000.22.0.0)
4) 1 lugnut brush (optional)

For drying:
1) 1 large microfiber towel for drying
2) 4 medium microfiber towels for drying (1 for door jambs and engine, 1 for interior, 1 for rims, 1 for spare)

For deeper cleansing:
1) 1 claybar
2) 1 bottle Optimum No Rinse (ONR) (used as clay lube)
3) 1 tar remover

For paint correction by hand:
1) Compounding cream
2) Polishing cream
3) Hand size polish pad

For protection:
1) 1 Car wax tube or tub
2) 2 waxing pad

For most of the stuff, u can go straight to Osren for recommendations. ONR u will neet to buy online, best price from LYN member Waregem.

For protection, I suggest starting with wax first. Once u get the groove going for your detailing hobby and want to learn more, then come back and throw your questions here. Enjoy.

https://www.autogeek.net/tornador-air-foamer.html

This uses air compressor. My personal experience is it is not as good as the foam lance.

Mmm, I'll be honest I have never used wax/sealant from Osren or Optimum. My old tub of Meguiars NXT Tech Wax wax quite decent, then I moved on to Carpro Reload after my Meguiars tub finished (finally after 5 years, lol).

Considering your car is Audi bright red, I think most waxes will bring out the colour anyway. Your only consideration should be durability of the wax. For that I think Meguiars one lasts about 1 month per application (depending on weather conditions also).

If not mistaken the foam lance commonly recommended here is MJCC.

Hahaha, erm, guess my car is lucky that it often parked in the shade, and I tend to wash less after waxing to prolong the durability.

I just bought Soft99 Fusso coat today, hoping that it will live up to its 1 year (or close) durability.

Thanks for info!

Generally u have the right idea, but as g88 say, there can be variations for every detailer depending on what they are trying to achieve. I added some comments to your post for additional reference.

With regards to your choice of polishing machine, I suggest starting with Osren DAP8 if u have no experience in this area. Dewalt is rotary and maybe not advisable for newbies, Osren DAP15 is heavier and also more aggressive cut (also maybe not so advisable for newbies), and Porter Cable runs on US 120V current means u have to carry a heavy transformer around.

Additionally, sealant is generally more durable than wax, so it is generally suggested that sealant should be the base layer if u want to apply wax as second layer.

Also, u should decide if u want to go for Meguiars Ultimate Wax, Fusso coat, or Carpro or Feynlab. Among these 4, Fusso seems to have the longest durability, and for some ppl it is not recommended to apply anything on top of Fusso else u bury Fusso under another protection layer and not maximizing Fusso protection.

Again, it is all about what u're trying to achieve.

I believe u can read back the last 2 pages should cover on some areas regarding washing. Personally I break down washing into 3 parts:

1) Rims washing, require bucket, wash soap, wheel cleaner (optional), wash mitt (dont mix with car wash mitt), wheel brush

2) Car overall wash, require bucket, wash mitt, wash soap

3) Drying, require 1 big microber towel for overall car, 1 medium microfiber towel for door jambs and engine, 1 microfiber towel for interior, 1 microfiber towel for rims or spare

On the topic for wash soap, I think it subject to individual budget. If u go Ace Hardware, u can find a variety. Personally I use Meguiars NXT wash, some prefer Meguiars Gold Class or other brands.

Hmm, to be honest I have not tried Fusso coat before. In fact I just ordered (and lazada delivered) 1 tub for testing. As I understand, Fusso coat uses PTFE, so its advantage is mostly on high water beading and its beading durability.

However, I have read somewhere before that generally synthetic waxes are dirt/dust magnets in their own way, hence may require wax cleaners over time to bring back the shine. I suppose this is the unavoidable drawback.

Unfortunately I cant tell u if its good or not because I have not used Shinemate machines before, however from the specs it is a 3" DA machine with 12mm throw, which is technically a clone of Rupes LHR75e. Because it is a fixed 3" size, u will need more effort when polishing bigger panels. In contrast, while Osren DAP8 is only 8mm throw, u can use either 3" or 5" backing plates (if not mistaken), so it gives u more variety of use.

If u are talking about Bosch GEX 125-1 A/AE polisher, I have an old one that I'm about to throw away or donate. To be honest, after using longer throw DA machines, Bosch DA throw seems to be the lowest, 1.25mm throw only, so it does very little in terms of compounding or polishing.

If u want u can have mine, but u have pay for delivery (if cannot collect from Wangsa Maju), and u need to get a new backing plate for it because my current one the backing plate velcro no more grippy.

I not sure what Osren DAP3 specifications are going to be like, I think it could be a forced rotation DA machine.

If u are on a fairly tight budget, then perhaps u can consider a vertical rotary polisher instead. While I generally dont recommend rotary polishers to newbies, however given that u could be on a tight budget, a typical Skil vertical rotary polisher would only cost RM200 (pads sold separately, u may need to find Osren for that). U may face a steeper learning curve with a rotary polisher, but good polishing results can still be achieved. Something for u to consider.

Well, to explain it very plainly, dual action polisher’s comes from both orbit and free rotation (hence the name dual action). Rotary polisher is purely forced rotation, so can be very aggressive. The advantage of DA is supposed to be the ability to remove defects safely and greate gloss at the same time. Earlier generations of DA machines had very small orbits up to 5mm only, until companies started coming out with 8mm, 12mm and Rupes came out with 15mm and 21mm. The greater the orbit, the faster it can remove defects.

For Bosch, their orbit is only 1.25mm. So to remove defects it probably will take a very very long time and a significant amount of cream, so not cost and time efficient.

If u do basic carpentry, masonry or metal work at home, then I think the Bosch would work just fine as a sander. However, I definitely would not recommend it for car polishing work. As douglas_tong mentioned, there are quite a few brands available in Malaysia for car DA machines. If on a budget and dont mind a steeper learning curve to save cost, then rotary is just as good of an option.

There are actual differences.

http://www.carwashmag.com/issues/feb-2011/...-management.cfm
https://www.theragcompany.com

Read through the article and check out the variety on the website, it will give u a general idea of the variations of microfiber towels.

Think for Meguiars, their towels are good but pricey. U can find cheaper towels that can do the same task just as well or even better.

Carnauba wax is a natural wax, not synthetic wax. Its durability is quite weak, but ppl swear by its superiority in glossing up your car. It should be quite easy to apply and buff off. If your coating supplier can recommend, possibly they may have tested it and the wax does not degrade or damage your coating unlike other waxes or sealants.

Perhaps I would suggest instead of getting a paste or liquid wax, is to instead get a spray carnauba wax instead. Just my 2 sen suggestion.

Maintenance wise, regular washing is highly recommended. As coating will repel dirt with relative ease, washing your car at home should not be difficult.

While I understand and appreciate both your comments, personally I am abit torn in that argument. It is true that the original selling point of coating was its superiority of protection performance and durability over sealants/waxes, hence the original perception that after coating dont need to DIY waxing further.

However, having coated 2 cars myself and maintaining it over time and seeing the watermarks grow to an unbearable point, i begin to understand that coating in and of itself isnt perfect product. As some folks that uses Cquartz coating and apply Carpro Reload on top of it, the purpose of the Carpro Reload is meant to be the sacrificial layer against the weather elements, while the coating itself will protect your clearcoat against harsher stuff. Similarly, the topcoat that some detailers offer that equivalent function of being the sacrificial layer. There are also coating suppliers that dont have a topcoat, hence u may need to find your own topcoat of sorts to protect the coating.

Just my 2 sen, feel free to debate.

Agreed on most parts of your statement. However, with regards to side-note 2, I'm just curious if the mild cleaner properties of a carnauba paste/liquid wax could also abrade and thin or even damage the coating. This was the theory in my mind that held me back from recommending a paste/liquid wax, but instead a spray wax that has the least amount of abrasives if at all.