I think it is okay to use if u are on a budget. However, I prefer to suggest using a better polish pad than what they provided. Perhaps consider getting a polish pad from Osren.

My answers to your questions:

1) Yes, the flaky wax residue is expected, however it should be very minimal. If u find too much flakes during buff off, means your application too thick. Apply thinner next time, as thin as possible.

2) Yes, unfortunately not all water marks (especially older and more hardened ones) can be removed by waxing alone. U may want to try polish first, and if that doesnt remove, then move up to compounding.

3) Bring forward your next wash if u want. However, just bear in mind, like it or not rain will come and "spoil" your efforts. That is part and parcel of living in our weather. For me after I did all the detailing and it rains, if I semangat I will wipe with damp microfiber cloth to clean it off. Else, I will just bring forward my next wash cycle earlier. If really lazy, then I screw it and leave it until next proper wash day. The joy comes from the process for me, not so much of preserving my efforts too much.

That question is best answered by your coating supplier in my opinion. Only he/she will know what is suitable to remove such bumps u feel.

Currently neat, but plan to phase out SuperClean for Megs super degreaser 10:1 ratio. From a chemical formulation standpoint, they are both very similar, so I think Megs will give me much more value for money.

From what I recall, Scott from Dallas auto paint correction channel mentioned that u can dilute 1:1 or 2:1 and it still works just as good.

Mmm, for home use, u can either get Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish, or can visit Osren in Kepong and see what they recommend.

For me I pretty much do the same of throwing them into washing machine, however I put them into laundry bag (can buy from Daiso). This helps reduce the amount of lint transfer from washing machine to towel, and also reduce chance of stretching the towel also. I dont bother with water temperature because my washing machine cant do hot water anyway, just use the normal water from tap joined into washing machine.

I used it before, decent cleaning power. How u use it on ur rims?

Commonly used is 3M mounting tape, grey colour.

https://www.lelong.com.my/3m-adhesive-stick...9-04-Sale-P.htm

U are using it to clean just the outer surface, or to clean the inner rim as well? U using it diluted or neat?

As I recall, Megs Wheel Brightener is acid based, its cleaning power isnt that different from the alkaline based ones (at least visually speaking). If u are interested to try the opposite spectrum, u can either try Megs Super Degreaser or SuperClean Degreaser.

U can also try using your Super Degreaser for your rims, see if it helps cleaning faster.


Hmm, u sound like u are comfortable with ur current combination. Why change? Unless u have an issue that u cant solve.

Yes, I stopped using Wheel Brightener because there were times that the spray mist caught on my specs and permanently etched in (even though diluted), so I worry on long term use.

However, just to be fair Super Degreaser, SuperClean Degreaser and other alkaline based wheel cleaners arent all the better, because accidentally breathing their mist in the wind can be bad for u. So overall, I would say handle with care.

Honestly, no, I dont generally wipe my rims after washing not do I wax them. With a long time cleaning cars I dont find rims to have any water spotting issues, so unless there is tremendous excess amount of water after I finish wiping the rest of the car, most of the time it would be dry by then.

U could try Meguiars M101 or D300 if u like.

Yes, it is possible to do coating by yourself. However, dont be fooled to think that just because can DIY means it is easy. It requires alot of prep work as well as a cool shaded environment.

If only it were that simple, then coating shops wouldnt charge so much, lol.

Sorry, but as far as my experience goes as well as seeing many other detailing shops in the past and present, the process is a fairly lengthy one. Just share with u a simple flow if DIY:

1) Wash (1 hour)
2) Clay (1-2 hours)
3) Compound/Polish (1-2 days)
4) IPA cleanse / re-wash (1 hour)
5) Apply coating on 1 section, buff off within a certain time limit before it becomes too hard. Use 1-3 microfiber towels for buffing process. Work section by section until complete. (2-4 hours)
6) Leave for it to completely cure (8-24 hours)
7) Throw away microfiber towels used (residue of coating will harden towel and render it useless for car detailing.

U can leave out compound/polish if u want, but a majority of ppl will tell u it is a waste of coating if u dont remove your defects first.

The trickiest part is the coating buff off. Due to its nature of curing, u generally need to buff off before it cures too much, else it would be almost impossible to buff off and end up u have to strip the section with IPA and reapply again. The curing time depends on your surrounding's temperature, too warm and it dries too fast before u get to buff off, too cold and the curing very slow and u can risk accidental smudges.

In any case this is just based on my experience and knowledge. Dont take my word for it, please do your research also. Here are some videos for your review.

Anyone has more experience, feel free to correct me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URzgY-tN5pA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXynw5a6EZo

Exactly as per douglas_tong's comments. I wish to emphasize on the fact that all cars, no matter how freshly manufactured, will be stored at a storage area while awaiting delivery to final customer. A majority of car distributors will order more cars to anticipate demand, which means the cars are built first, stored, then when dealers make a sale then they go take your selected car for some basic cleaning and simple touchups or maybe a simple coat of quick wax before handing it over to u. The time period in between build and sale, your car will be in a storage area, which from what I have seen most often are open air and subjected to sun and rain.

If u want proof of whether your car need to be clayed or not, wear a thin plastic bag on your hand and gently slide your plastic bagged hand across any of your car body surface. If its rough, then it needs claying. If u want to know if your car needs polish, take a torchlight and shine on any particular panel of your car in multiple different angles and see if your car has swirls.

I have seen some cheap coating shops that tie in with car dealers will coat a car without removing any defects or contaminants. Within few months the coating fails because proper prep work not done.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Sep 8 2018, 04:24 PM

Erm, scratches maybe okay, but paint chip should make sure it did not hit down to bare metal. Else it is possible for rust to form even after wrap.

Hmm, possibly what u need is not a car wash but a sort of car restoration shop. U need specialists that know how to strip entire interiors and remove all your red ants before putting them back.

Mine is Carpro Reload for sealant, bought Fusso Coat wax but yet to try. Both can be bought locally.


For lower sections of the car especially closer to the wheels, I will do 2 steps of cleansing. First would be using tar remover, that should be done maybe 2-3 rounds especially for stubborn tar spots. After tar removal and washed off properly, then only I go in and clay.

An interesting and important point about clay is that it is only effective when the surface is clean. So, if u run into a situation where u clay once and it still feels bumpy, fold your claybar inwards a few times and flatten out a new fresh surface and continue. I tend to clay each section with 4 or more clean clay surfaces to get it almost 100% clean. Applying more pressure on a clay surface is counter productive, because the clay surface is already dirty and pressing it harder only rubs the contaminants onto the paint and scratching/marring it. The key is repetition, not aggressiveness when it comes to claying.

https://www.facebook.com/carzoneinterior/

You could try give them a call first, see if they can do a complete interior cleaning for u. Tell them the problem u are facing.

Personally, I had handled one issue similar to yours before during my detailing shop days. Customer's driver parked under some tree not knowing that there was an ants nest next to it. Ants crawled in and made the car its new home. I pretty much smoked them out using bug spray, sprayed it in the car and closed all the doors. Did it 2-3 rounds, then let the ants die, then did a complete interior wipedown and vacuum all the dead ants. Customer said no more issues after that.

Yes, I have done it before, but not the type where u hose down the entire engine bay. I do more of a "dry cleaning" method, whereby I spray specific areas with Meguiars Super Degreaser, agitate with brush, then wipe dry with microfiber towel. I do it section by section.

However, to avoid having to do a deep clean of the engine bay, the simple trick is to to do a wipedown with a damp microfiber towel on the engine bay after every car wash at home. That way the dirt and grime dont accumulate as much. Same goes for door jambs and boot/bonnet covers.

Yup, unfortunately didnt go far. However the experience was valuable. U get to see all kinds of car owners and their detailing preferences.

Since u brought this up, the answer is no. I do not necessarily clay each time I want to wax. I wanted to write this earlier but stopped because I dont want to share the lazy man's way of doing things and end up kena bash just because its not best practice. A perfectionist would always tell u to clay prior to applying any form of protection, because u want maximum bonding power to your paint. However, I struggle to fully agree with that statement because alot of these things we cant truly see. Each to their own experience based on the products they use.

Honestly, I only clay in either one of these situations:

1) prior to polishing
2) if I have not waxed for long time and all the wax are totally gone from my car already (easily 6 months or more of no waxing)

Also, as douglas_tong just mentioned, there will be the concern of contaminants embedded on the paint, and when applying paste/liquid waxes, the pad may pull some of those contaminants out, stick to the pad and mar the rest of the paint. For me, I am not as particular, so I may just wax my car without claying anyway even though the contaminants come off and stick to the pad. However, tar removal is something I will still definitely do prior to waxing.

For tar removal, I find Osren's Tar Remover to be quite decent. One user here also recommended Stoner Tarminator, which so far I can only find in Lazada and not in any physical shop.

U mean rubber squeaking? Maybe apply some oil?

U could check out the variety of Soft99 waxes, they are mostly within your budget range. Alternative u can try visiting Osren and see what they have to offer.

Erm, maybe u could share first what make and model of your car, and also if your car paint is original or repainted by 3rd party? What applicatir pad did u use with the soft99 polish?

By some accounts, the soft99 blue tin polish can be abit aggressive, thus not able to provide the final shine. Also, bumpers paint are usually sprayed by third party and not the manufacturer themselves, so it is possible that the bumper clearcoat is softer. Hand polishing is always a delicate matter, as for the inexperienced, your hand pressure on the bad may be too hard.

If u are looking for alternative products and based in KL, u can try pop by Osren office in Kepong to see what they recommend. U can also msg them online if u are outstation and ask for a polish and pad for u to use for hand polishing purposes.

For other brands, u could also try Meguiars Ultimate Polish for mild scratches and hazing, and Meguiars Ultimate compound for more severe scratches and other defects. Pad wise its still best to get from Osren, cuz Meguiars dont have hand polish pads sold locally.

Hope this helps.

Perhaps u could pay a visit to Osren then. They have both polish and pads selection, so u can find a combo that suits your needs and your car type.