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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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douglas_tong
post Jul 14 2018, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(Derekk @ Jul 14 2018, 04:25 PM)
Double is the one more expensive right?
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Btw, it's damn expensive.

I'll pm you where to get jt
douglas_tong
post Jul 16 2018, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Jul 16 2018, 09:52 AM)
Agreed on most parts of your statement. However, with regards to side-note 2, I'm just curious if the mild cleaner properties of a carnauba paste/liquid wax could also abrade and thin or even damage the coating. This was the theory in my mind that held me back from recommending a paste/liquid wax, but instead a spray wax that has the least amount of abrasives if at all.
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Wax in a raw material form, is abrasive. So usually solvents are added to emulsify it and make it spreadable.
Think of Milo powder and ready to drink Milo. Milo powder can abrade a little and Milo ais don't do harm.
The oils and solvent also helps to prevent it from marring during application.

Yes , spray wax has the least amount of abrasive. This is because it also has the least amount of true "wax" properties. Usually spray sealant are marketed as sio2 which only consist of less than 5%. No one else bothers to find out what is in the 95%. Marketing hoo-haa if you ask me.

Spray wax also means having less potent solvents if compared to paste or liquid wax. Which is the safest for coated cars.

So why are coated cars recommended to spray wax every now and then? If we observe carefully, coating usually hardens, a d harden stuff means having less slickness on it. Spray wax will help to boost the slickness of the coating. The slicker it is, the more resistance there will be.


douglas_tong
post Jul 16 2018, 11:08 AM

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This is how a raw wax looks like. It can be broken down further, but still quite unfriendly on paint la.

Attached Image
douglas_tong
post Jul 16 2018, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(mcchin @ Jul 16 2018, 10:51 AM)
Got my hand on some Fireball Products

Iron Burn Extra
and Satin tyre coating

yet to test...
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The drying towel is the best !
douglas_tong
post Jul 16 2018, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(slk @ Jul 16 2018, 02:28 PM)
looks like white chocolate!
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Taste like butter. Maybe can add some into your kuih and cookies. For more protection and gloss. No need to glaze!
douglas_tong
post Aug 11 2018, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(VeeJay @ Aug 10 2018, 07:58 PM)
lol...seriously guys...dont think there is any "really good" car wash...own wash is the best.
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+1
douglas_tong
post Aug 12 2018, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Aug 12 2018, 06:16 PM)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3FeDDIJqUg

Just sharing, also my 2 sen on his argument in Malaysian context is price difference isnt as much as he says. In lazada, Megs Ultimate Fast Finish is selling at RM128, Carpro Reload 500ml is RM176.

One comes in a full bottle of liquid (majority would be solvent to keep the SIO2 suspended), the other comes in an aerosol can (majority compressed air). Liquid could dry over long periods of time kept in a bottle, aerosol can releases its gas over long periods of time also.

His justification that SIO2 exists everywhere and used in other industries cheaply is also abit lax as every industry value-adds differently to a raw material to create its final output. Perhaps Carpro is more expensive due to international marketing, but doesnt mean its product need to be much cheaper just because the raw material in its foundation is cheap. It's like saying water running to our taps should be free just because we can find water everywhere.
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He has a point. The industry has been making tons of money off detailing products..hahaha..regardless sio2 sio3 sio4 polymer this that.

Just buy whatever you like or comfortable with. It's a free market and demand and supply will always adjust accordingly.

Remember, Scott loved you all LOL

douglas_tong
post Aug 14 2018, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(matt1998 @ Aug 14 2018, 11:46 AM)
Hello sifus,

I want to wash my own car instead of going to the car wash, which they would make tons of swirl marks on my paint.

Want to know, what should i get for washing a car as a beginner?
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for start,

Automotive shampoo,
2 buckets , or 3 if you intend to wash your rims clean clean, i dont recommend mixing. 2 for body 1 for rims
2 grit guards ( minimum one)
a good wash mitt, microfiber chenille is my favourite, so i will impose my favouritism on you haha
good drying towel, got good budget try fireball premium twisted drying towel.
Passion and determination to wash your own car.

Look up on : 2 bucket wash method

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Aug 14 2018, 12:09 PM
douglas_tong
post Aug 14 2018, 04:10 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Aug 14 2018, 03:44 PM)
https://www.fireballmalaysia.com/collection...-3-size-options

Is this the MF towel? Am looking to replace mine... surface becoming rough already =/
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Ah yes. Looks like th medium size out of stock.

Sweet drying towel
douglas_tong
post Aug 18 2018, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Aug 17 2018, 05:14 PM)
Fireball or Meguair's drying towel? Which is better ya?
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fireball, over priced. But i like it. Been using for 3 years
douglas_tong
post Aug 29 2018, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(V429 @ Aug 28 2018, 11:45 PM)
Hello guys. First of all I must thank you all as I have slowly learn about car detailing by slowly reading thru what you guys have shared in this thread. I have some questions that I hope you guys can help share your knowledge about :

1)I currently use Mothers cleaner wax (recommended to me, a total newbie at that time, by a kind random stranger at Summit ACE Hardware). I observed that the wax deteriorates quite fast, about 1.5 week later the slickness is almost gone (I park my car outside all day every day unfortunately). I wonder is this because Cleaner wax are in general more thinner & less durable than pure wax? Does this mean I should apply another layer of pure wax on top of cleaner wax?

2)I plan to start claying my car in the future but unsure what to use as lube. Is diluted wash & wax shampoo sufficient? I have Meguiars quick detailer but not too keen to use it as lube.

3)Read from some of your posts that Carpro PERL is recommend to protect car plastic, rubber trims, etc. Just wondering are there any other recommended products to protect plastic & rubber? (focus on protection, shine is just bonus for me), or so far Carpro PERL is the best for this purpose?

4) Watched one of AMMO NYC's video and was surprised to learn plastic panel when exposed to sun may release oil & stick on inner windscreen (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WEQItBaEfY skip to to about 40 minutes). Just wondering anyone noticed this in their cars before? So means I should get a separate glass cleaner to tackle this problem? Also wondering is such products suitable for window tint?

As always, thank you guys for sharing smile.gif
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cleaner wax is more for cleaning purposes. whereas dedicated wax is a wax dedicated to shine and protect.

if you are using clay cloth or synthetic type of clay, i recommend shampoo. if clay bar, use onr diluted or quick detailer.

plastic and rubber you can use any oil or water based type gloss enhancer. oil would last longer but would stain. water wouldnt stain that bad but wouldn't last. this is my understanding based on product formulation. i usually use oil type like meguiars endurance, but will buff excess with a dry m/f. it helps to prevent black streaks.


douglas_tong
post Sep 8 2018, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(EON @ Sep 8 2018, 12:25 PM)
But for coating a new car i dont think it needs to be clay or polish right?
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i would disagree.
It's not how new your car is, it is about the condition of ANY car.

Most cars are stored beside an assembly plant under open air area. this means it is exposed to natural elements.
before cars are delivered to your dealers, they will be manually restored. Why restoration? every car will go through inspection before delivery. If you have seen many cars, there will be PDI stickers on it. pdi = pre-delivery inspection.
meaning, if there are parts that needs to be replaced like rubber, it will be replaced. If the alignment of doors and hinges needs to be fixed, it will be fixed. if there are chips on paint, it will be touched up, or adding accessories to various lineups.
Part of PDI process is also to ensure that the car is polished manually prior to delivery to dealership. And dealers will determine if it is in optimal condition before delivering the final product.

so, where manual labored is factored, some cars will have more swirls and defects than others. some call it "dealership instilled defects/swirls"

it's not about how new your car is. It's about the condition.
New cars don't mean it is not spared from defects or swirls.

Oh, it is also dependent on each PDI centers in different regions. some managers are good, some, I can only wish you all the best.
also luxury cars usually have higher standards la.

douglas_tong
post Sep 11 2018, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(Hanzo @ Sep 11 2018, 10:36 AM)
anyone did car engine bay cleaning before? is it advisable to clean the engine bay so it looks cleaner and almost brand new?
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Yes I did many times.

But my own car lazy la. Hahahaha just wipe down will do.

Basically one wash is all you need. Subsequent wipe down will do. I access my bonnet quite often cause I still prefer to use wet battery non-mf free. Last longer.

So basically if you are driving a modern car, just cover air intake and your alternator. Most of the stuff can take some light hits with water. But I do cover battery terminals and whichever socket that I find suspectable. Own judgement lo. It's the carburator type of engine you wanna be careful of. Usually for those, I just use steam cleaner + damp m/f clothes with some light cleaner on it to wipe down.
douglas_tong
post Sep 11 2018, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(IMBeta305 @ Sep 11 2018, 01:02 PM)
Meaning you would clay the car each time you wanna wax it?
BTW where and what brand should I get for tar removal, and tar removal only do for the btm section near the tyres??
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I don't clay everytime i re-wax it. I don't think it's necessary. Then again, that's because I use spray wax a lot.
Usually after detailing, my go-to was is paste wax. IMO, these last longer than spray wax. Subsequently, all the way spray wax until i'm ready to perform paint cleaning again in couple of months time. I might or might not clay it. Depending on roughness on paint. Usually, flat panels will clay a bit, side panels, not rough so won't clay.

The concern with topping up wax on car paint is that these embedded dirts would transfer on pads easily. That's why i dont do re-wax with paste or liquid with pads.
Spray wax is more of using m/f towel to spread and buff. Doesn't transfer or lift up dirt as easily as using paste or liquid since solvent is weakest among those 3 types of waxes.
So don't have to worry about dirt marring the paint.

I had experience where i re-apply liquid wax with pad and somewhat cause very light marring on paint from the embedded dirt. So eventually i decided to also use low pile m/f to spread the liquid wax. Uses a lot more product but less chances of causing marring.

The above method is not a proven method, but does give better piece of mind for those who are concerned about the dirty pad causing trouble on paint.

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Sep 11 2018, 01:15 PM
douglas_tong
post Sep 12 2018, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(PlayThis125 @ Sep 12 2018, 11:45 PM)
do we need to do any other polish before apply sealant? or just apply sealant after wash? and I found some website said that it will has better shine effect if apply wax after sealant.
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wax and sealant are essentially the same thing. It's a form of last step product intended to give extra shine and protection.

Somehow to differentiate things, sealant is something that usually outlasts waxes. Something i always like to refer to as one is a basmati rice, while the other is a brown rice; both are essentially rice.
and to keep waxes spreadable, different brands uses different solvents to keep paste from "drying out". sometimes due to incompatible solvents, a wax or sealant will remove another sealant or wax. So i personally would opt for paste wax, then spray wax. usually, spray wax is always formulated with less aggressive solvents.

I also believe that a good wax should render some shine and protection. I like to stick to one wax that provides both, so no need for double work.
polishing and remove swirls (surface preparation) will contribute most part of it, while waxing will give that additional pop.

waxing on a car that has tons of swirls will not outshine a car that is un-waxed, but polished to almost perfection.

hope this helps you to understand.

some interesting read for you : http://osren.com/blog/?p=378

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Sep 13 2018, 12:06 AM
douglas_tong
post Sep 16 2018, 03:55 PM

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QUOTE(wokies @ Sep 16 2018, 01:53 PM)
just wash my car..got 1 more problem..how to repair my front bonnet?..the colour getting hazzy blur like that..already wax..but didnt solve it..need to use rubbing compound?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
is your front bonnet repainted?
douglas_tong
post Sep 16 2018, 08:01 PM

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QUOTE(wokies @ Sep 16 2018, 06:27 PM)
no..not repainted..same hazzy also happen at top near the antenna..not sure..maybe due to open park everyday..
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hmmm how would you describe it?
does it feel rough?
wax won't "remove" any defects on paint, it just adds a layer of lipid above it.


douglas_tong
post Sep 16 2018, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Sep 16 2018, 08:58 PM)
My thoughts are 2 possibilities:

1) haziness due to severe scratch marks (like sanding your car with sandpaper)
2) haziness due to clearcoat starting to fail

As u just mentioned that u park it in the open all the time, there is a higher possibility of problem 2 instead of problem 1.

U could try to compound and polish by hand to see if the haziness goes away and shine comes back.

Also, as douglas_tong mentioned, try to feel the surface if it is rough or flaky. If it is then even higher possibility of problem 2.

The only way to solve clearcoat failure as I know is to send it to paintshop and respray your clearcoat. If anyone has other ideas that doesnt involve respraying, please feel free to share.
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have not seen any clear coat that starts to fail, polished and stay shiny permanently.
hmm.gif
douglas_tong
post Sep 16 2018, 10:22 PM

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QUOTE(wokies @ Sep 16 2018, 10:19 PM)
i saw some videos on youtube, but it involve using sand paper, rubbing compound, polishing + using machine.seems not doable for me..better send for clear coat

how much cost usually for respray clear coat? if alot? i guess i just change the bonnet with half cut one laugh.gif
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Usually it's calculated by panels, and depending on your area.

price is anywhere from 300-400 approximately.
douglas_tong
post Sep 17 2018, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(Kaffatsum @ Sep 17 2018, 11:38 AM)
For polishing, would it be possible to do 1-2 sections of the car at a time? And then repeat wash, clay, dry, ipa step everyday for whatever section I wanted to polish?

The reason I ask is because my car is parked outside without much shading. Meaning I would try and polish as much of the car as I can before it gets too hot and sunny.
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I polish my car half and half.

Yesterday itself was raining, i managed to clay the entire car the night before, rinse it again it the morning, wipe down with onr.
then polish first half, it rained.

after rain, repeat rinsing and onr wipe down,
reverse drive back in and polish.

You can always work by section.

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