Speaking of foam sprayer.

I managed to try out the IK 1.5 spray foamer. I like how it has more longevity compared to kwazar foamer despite being smaller.
And the build is sturdier too. Solid and can control the foam thickness based on the cartridge. Was using the grey standard one and felt it was already very thick

According to IK: ORANGE to Create Very Wet Foam, GREEN to Create Very Dry Foam and GREY that Creates Standard Foam

OSREN ada jual!

Actually not really la. but cause most of our pressure washer has 3 pistons, there is where you don't want the air bubble to be present, so will take some time to get rid of it since it has tighter clearance. sometimes you see the nozzle no more air bubbles ok liao lo.

osren ada. Groizper tak ada carry this model..

metawax is also a cleaner wax, the paint restorer is also a cleaner wax.
difference is the paint restorer cleans has improved version of abrasive that can remove more wash marrings.

wahh....im constantly impressed by your knowledge ah.
true true...the contents of the abrasive in cleaner wax is far lesser than polish/compound and it is more intended for cleaning purpose.

true i agree.

sometimes less is better. less confusing. I suppose they started up with supplying to car wash operators hence might wanna keep some formula that old school people insist on using.

but i find the polishing part is simple. 46 and 20 can be used on most paint to a swirl free finish, just switch up pads. 50 for levelling and 51 for paint cleaning.

I would say a yes. Tar remover i have not come across any brand in my arsenal that can remove embedded dirts.

Embedded dirts are hard to spot with naked eyes, so we usually use hand or plastic bag test method to determine if it is time to clay or not.

Claying means shaving off above surface contaminants. By claying, polishing can produce better results because above surface contaminants which are usually more compared to below surface contaminants (pores of paint) does not clog up on pads. In addition, sometimes when we are polishing, these embedded dirts will act like abrasive and can be more aggressive than polishing cream itself.
the pad stays cleaner longer and produces consistent results for a longer period of time too.

Clay, jangan tak clay.

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: May 25 2018, 11:06 AM

for special case paint. Some paints which are hard but flexible in the sense that it turns "softer" when heated. or for fresh from the resprayed panels within days. Seldom use though.

You sponsor shampoo? kekeke

which air gun are you using hehe

The website is under maintained. Drop them a pm to find out more

Same question i had for henry back then. According to him yes, it contains some cleaner solvents in it. However, it will be used during the decontaminating stage, which means it is not something you would use it regularly.

What kind of problems are we tackling? usually I will just go in with a wheel brush and clean it with a degreaser. This is part of my weekly routine. Do it weekly and you never have to face trouble of caked in dirts.

very pricey for me T.T
the difference between high roller and peasant

something to consider about coated cars is that: coated cars are still prone to embedded dirt.

It is also not recommended to clay as this would mean that micro marring would occur. And polishing means abrading the coating. When dirt is present on the surface of the paint, it would hinder the water cohesion factor. Which means water won't beads up as good as a newly coated car. This doesn't mean the coating is no longer functional, rather obstructed by contaminants over time. dirt = less gloss, less water beading.

all in all, coating is not for lazy people. You have to be rajin in washing. And i recommend finding one that gives excellent after sales service if you insist to get it coated.

after coating ka?

best to wash weekly.

if rain that week, wash it more often.
if lazy,take the car out for a spin to have the water droplets blown off the car. will slightly reduce watermarks visibility.
Never use tap water and flush without drying it. watermarks will be worst.

Ah yes. Driving out on wet road can be dirty. Can be an alternative if it is permitable.

I share the same thoughts. I just use a cleaner wax and rewax

Clay bar = cleaner surface if do plastic bag test. Cleans better.
Clay mitt/pad/cloth = faster working speed, can drop on floor no problem.

Con:
Claybar = tends to create more marrings if the claybar is the rough type. To be honest, after trying a few, hard to tell by eye or touch. Can be deceiving.
Clay cloth = the clay material part sticks to each other if stored for a long period of time. Either that not much issue

If your car is coated, don't clay. I shared on why not to clay coated cars few post ago

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Jun 12 2018, 10:35 AM

Food for thoughts:

lai lai lai, so many offering opinions but don't give logical reasoning behind.

1) any ph balanced shampoo will do. acid and alkaline don't kill coating immediately. But frequent usage will see deterioration of coating overtime.

2) and spray wax / detailing spray is ok. reason why we dont recommend wax is because of the solvents in it. again, similar to what will happen if we use it frequently, the coating will undergo a slow deterioration. Different wax uses different solvents. Solvents that are meant to kept wax "applicable" (in liquid or paste form) can be not so friendly to coatings. This is why many company have their own booster in form of spray wax for coated cars.

3) coatings are usually in certain hardness of 6h or 9h. Bear in mind that these are only pencil hardness. Not mineral hardness. Tests are being done in pencil hardness. How we know how hard certain coatings are of certain hardness is through pencil scratch test. We gradually increase hardness of pencil (ie: b, hb, f, h, 2h, 3h, 4h....9h) to determine if it will leave micro marring on the coating. 9h means a 9h pencil will leave scratch or marring on the coating, and 8h will not.

To say that polishing is not hard enough to remove coating, is rather inaccurate. We all know polishing abrasive of various brand is of different cut level. and by pairing it with different pad or machine speed, we get different level of cut. If i were to pair a polish with a slightly more aggressive pad on a 6H coating, it will likely create unwanted swirls on the coating. Why would we want to do that? Coatings are only 1um-2um thick in most cases. That's polishable (removable) imo.

I must say. 6h or 9h, washing also can get wash marrings. What more polishing?

some people i see can shake head. giving false info.

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Jun 14 2018, 04:29 PM

Pencil hardness vs mohs hardness is very different.

Just some of the stuff we experiement with

50ml can apply 4 times on mid sized sedan.

+36h.
+Water will float in mid air above the paint. Hyper hydrophobicity
+Edward Cullen gloss
-1hp from the weight of the coating

I usually top it up around 3 or 4 weeks.
Yes it's costly, partly cause our currency weak also. Damn kns, used to purchase it at RM95 a couple of years back then. After the 1mdb sh1t, it gradually went up.

But this stuff is dope. It has darkening properties. Extra contrast, extra shine, extra slick. I'm running out of it and currently having dilemma if i should purchase this or not.

500ml is more than enough to last more than a year plus. Spray once on the damp m/f to prime, spray half trigger on the bonnet and spread half of the bonnet, another half spray on the bonnet for full coverage. Tentatively, one full spray should cover entire bonnet for a small-medium sized car.

Alternatively, you may try fireball spray wax, it is of the same concept (not formula) for reload.
https://www.fireballmalaysia.com/products/u...ating-wax-500ml

Rumors are (i read from autogeek, someone claimed) they come from same contract manufacturer. Similarly it is also a sio2 based spray sealant.

I use arouns 30ml for my sedan.
You shouldnt be using more than 50ml per application even on mpv.

Cool info. Will try this method out. Give you one like.

On the other hand, if someone has some menzerna to spare, would really love to try it with their recommended methods. Not looking to buy entire bottle, as it is for trying out and understand more brands only.

How did you concluded this?

What is the difference between ceramic coating and sio2 coating in terms of crystallising properties?

Im curious to find out more about the difference between ceramic based spray and sio2 based spray as well. Why does one doesn't get along well with the other?

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Jun 22 2018, 03:10 PM