Make sure to clean your crevices and gaps during your wash. those are usually where all the grease and grimes are accumulated at, sometimes using pressure washing to blast inside also helps a bit. If those areas are not cleaned properly, the black streaks will come back easily after just one rain.

generally, pressure washer is safe provided you use the correct lance. the area that i usually find to be dangerous would be on chipped plastic areas like bumpers or body kit. Don't use the spiralling nozzle, fan is very safe. keep it at a distance. I really enjoy using pressure washer cause it really helps to reduce time in rinsing and feels safer in removing more loose dirts too.

somehow has a lot to do with plastic primer. In my opinion, most of plastic painted parts does peel off, whereas metal painted part bonds really well.

But lucky me have not peel any chipped paint so far la, even with a powerful industrial pw.

I recommend soaking it in fabric detergent before giving it another wash in the washing machine.

Diluted IPA actually doesn't do much in removing wax on microfiber and in fact, doesn't remove wax on car panels entirely as well. (It may remove some, but not entirely)
IPA function as "solvents and viscosity decreasing agents", basically just help to lift things to the surface. M/f is good at "catching" particles thanks to the microscopic fingers (split fibers). So issue with removing dry wax on m/f is that sometimes, some form of agitation is required to remove it from these fibers

I usually just take 2 m/f and rub it against each other after soaking for a night in the soap bucket, followed up by fresh detergent and machine wash.

Detergent in liquid form is fine on microfiber towels. Softeners are fine on m/f towels too despite what people would say. Just use a little than the regular amount you would on wearables. I've personally tested it. M/f that is added with softeners on final rinse (with small amount) doesn't do any harm on paint. The issue with too much softeners is that is would clog the split fibers and making the m/f hard to "catch" unwanted particles like dust on panels or surfaces.

If you have used a m/f straight from the packaging, chances are you have used a softened m/f on surfaces before. These m/f are soft and fluffy initially and subsequently feels rougher after a few washes. This is because prior to delivery, m/f clothes are washed and softened in factory before shelving to make it more sellable. Nobody will want to buy hard and rough clothes.

Softeners will be washed out after several washes with detergent. Softeners are hydrophobic, to check if your m/f contains softners, just drip a drop of water on it, old m/f would immediately absorb it while softened (brand new from packaging) clothes would take some time. You would see beading on it.

So on the left is the used and washed m/f
on the right it's the brand new from packaging, feels softer too.

You can see the behaviour of water is different. I recorded this way back then to highlight that in factory process, softeners are always added to make it more sellable. And by having this test done, it is simply to ascertain that and nothing else.

I need to dig another video on how brand new clothes performs equally well on picking up polish residues, vs a used and washed m/f clothes.
Don't know which phone I recorded that on.

But, performance wise, it is comparable. I have different clothes for drying and for buffing. Personally, for buffing clothes, i do use softeners once in a while. For drying, nah, i want it to asborb water

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Oct 10 2018, 12:21 PM

I always discourage people from getting black and decker polisher that you mentioned. Under powered and does not have enough torque to correct paint, at best, for waxing only. It also doesn't have the function to switch pads.

You can look at other brands such as shinemate or if you have enough budget, rupes.
other alternatives include:

ryobi
osren
meguairs


as for the water polish that you mentioned. The one that i heard is (i cant verify this, but my source told me this)
during washing, basically they clay your car with clay cloth instead of using wash medium

Better have them explain the type of process that will be done. cause if it is straight rinse and clay, i discourage it too. claying should be done after washing of the car, not concurrently

for plastic chrome, it can't be polished. it's essentially a paint, most of the time any attempt to polish it will result in paint peeling off. primer issue.

In my experience, polishing scratches on glass is something very difficult. You might be able to reduce some, but it's going to take a long time to improve it even a little.

scratches from wipers are repetitive, thus, the scratches are deeper the more you use the wipers.

You can try polishing it with cerium oxide based abrasive with a glass polishing pad. Only by trying you will know.

could be clay marks, usually a light polishing would remove it. the bigger circle did seem like it.

May i ask what lubricant did you use? Usually clay bar, when used with insufficient lube, will have this sort of problem.

With usage of clay bar, you just wanna glide across it, until you feel it is smooth, work on another area. No fixed amount of times.

If you are lazy person like me, get a clay cloth, makes life easier.

mind sharing a photo of the scratch from inside-out and from outside the car?

glass is difficult to polish / cut, the 04A is still intended mainly for watermarks remover and not for removing scratches.

Polishing is the only way to truly remove swirls.
Alternatively, if it is not a severe defect, you can mask/cover it with wax. But it does appear after few washes.

Unfortunately, honda paint is one of the softest paint to date. My go to is always perfect cut 20 + softest polishing pad on a dual action polisher. That's how soft the paint is.

You can look at aliexpress, antirain, osren, scgb, meguairs for start.
drying cloth? i always recommend fireball twisted towel. but somehow they have not been restocking.

Mine lasted for 3 years. Still doing good.
I dry it indoors and don't really twist it to dry after each wash.

yes. i bought it online. i think they are located at johor. you can try asking them to order on facebook.

Just get it from aliexpress then hahahahahaha
wash mitt noodles

#freeshipping #upto3weeks #stillcheap

Usually this case we would refer to women, family and community ministry. Can meet Hannah yeoh wei.

You can try to smoke it but if she doesn't leave, she will die.
Or use a gust of wind to resolve it?

Windscreens are laminated (toughened).
Side windows are not.
Which is also why security films are only for sides.

Using acid will increase the risk of blurring up the windscreens.
Especially if it is scratched. Just polish it with appropriate abrasive.

Side note: vinegar is not strong enough. Get OSREN 05a or optimum mdr

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Dec 12 2018, 03:13 PM

Go enter giveaway contest by OSREN la. Announcing soon. But already give teaser lol

It's your choice. Just saying it's for freeeeeeee

On plastics or rubber.

The dirty little secret is to use eraser. Rubber eraser.

This msg will be self destructed in 2 days time lol

rip.
cannot be saved

I started this way. by hand. Got fed up and bought my first da years ago. Never look back lol.
there is a limitation to how much shine a hand polish can bring about.

brands you can consider on da polisher if you have around Rm800 budget:
Shinemate
OSREN

Good coating can take quite a bit of beating. Some brands we experimented, really took quite some beating and still has water beading on it. Some, while still retains the water beading, starts turning blurry.

I would say using a damp cloth method is very safe on coatings. Much like polishing, use less acidic approach and increase if have to.

Also one of the reason why I don't like coating.

As long as minerals and calcium are present on water, waterspot will appear in any brand of coating. You should ask the guy here la, claims one brand of coating will not have waterspots.

Pm price for cordless blower lol