Oh cool it's RM10 only? I thought it will be more than RM20. Is the bristle made of plastic-like material?

Currently I am using the brush like this...it's very soft like hair. Long enough to go deep into the wheel rim. But I find that it is difficult to go into the gap between the brake caliper and rim (only for certain kind of rim).

Hi, anyone using polisher for waxing? if weekly waxing by using polisher will dmg the clear coat?

Yes. plastic like. but really soft and i only use it for quick wash. else it's a different brush that i go to.
For small gap, i usually rely on this from antirain as well.
it's only Rm 8 and the huge toilet bowl washer like brush is only 10.
The wooden brush would get any tight spots since it's really flat, so can the toilet washer brush. (LOL)
But it's so soft it barely agitates imo (toilet washer)

Guys, there's alot of light swirls around the car paint ( can easily observed under some light), last time used to let those ahnehneh wash my car

now got more time during weekend so I wash my car every week and wax every 1/2 months.

since my car still quite new (8months), should I use ultimate compound then follow with ultimate polish then wax? or just ultimate polish? or maybe ScratchX 2.0 then wax?

Scratch - X is used for light scratches.

However, Ultimate Compound is a good solution to swirl marks.

You can try Swirl X to Scratch X and to a more aggressive compound like Ultimate Compound.
Swirl X > Scratch X > Ultimate Compound.

If you're doing by hand, you definitely need that elbow workout.
Often people have a misconception on this, elbow grease = harder.
No, its the "Action" or "small circles" that you work the compound.

I've done by hand, and ultimately took the DA 3500 to lightly correct it (burgundy sponge).
Its lotsa scrubbing if its without the tool. (an excellent waxer IMO)

I recommend a DA polisher if you're going serious.

Dont worry if you go wrong with a DA, its designed NOT to burn the paint.

On a polisher machine however, you risk more harm on an untrained hands.

My 2 cents

This post has been edited by linkin182: Jul 21 2016, 07:57 PM

Common car wash shampoo comparison. As always, they might not be the best but I just thought of sharing them. Feel free to share the shampoos, their behaviour and methods that you use in the comments. Happy detailing.
http://carporchdetailer.blogspot.my/2016/0...sh-shampoo.html

Nice review. I have been using Osren Bubble Wash for almost 2 years (4 liters). It produces a great amount of suds and when wash on paint, I can feel it's lubricated enough. Good cleaning power. Despite it might not be the best car shampoo in the market, but I think it's great bang for buck.

My washing method - two bucket system. Microfiber Wash mitt . 2oz for 2.5 gallon water.

Thanks. It's good to know even our local brand has good quality shampoos. I might try it in the near future.

Mine left less than half after usage of 6 months.

Wow than you are really washing your car frequently. Haha. I wash my car roughly every 2 week.

So any comment on Osren Bubble Wash? Do share it out too

This post has been edited by windskill: Jul 23 2016, 11:02 PM

Ya. 3 cars for me to wash.
I tend to use more as i worry on the lubricity, sometime i do feel the lubricity became poorer during the end of the cleaning process, i guess it might be due to some water is transferred into the mixture after i rinse the wash mitt in 2nd bucket.
But anyway, since the cost is below RM50 for one gallon, never mind lar..

Hi guys, i used too much strength to with Meguiar Scratch X to remove a scratch above the door handle as per picture below. As shown in the picture, the colour looks a bit faded. I think i may have removed too much clear coat. Can i get some advice for this? Should i leave it as it is for now or do i have to apply some protection over it? Thanks in advance!


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The handle is a metallic plated part. There's no clear coat and no paint. Unlike paint, the plating is only very thin. I don't think there's much you can do here. Just use some strong sealant on it frequently.

Sorry shud have highlight in the pic earlier. Not the handle but the door as now indicated in the pic. So u think i shud just appear sealant here too?

This post has been edited by Sanity: Jul 24 2016, 03:14 PM


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Hmm it looks a bit like clearcoat is gone already for that part.....I might be wrong....

Seems like clear coat gone. If I'm not mistaken, there's some aerosol auto paint clear coat and also brush type touch up paint that you can buy and DIY. But could be difficult to patch up. I don't think that's a good idea. If you're really particular about it, I think you'll need to send to a paint shop. Else just apply sealant and close one eye.

This post has been edited by gfwong: Jul 25 2016, 07:34 PM

Yea the clearcoat is gone =(

Thx for the advice

Just go to supermarket and get the clearcoat touch up paint. The color might look a little bit different after you touch up the clearcoat, but I guess it's better than not having clearcoat as protection?

This is the first time i hear someone polishing till clear coat is gone by hand...hmmm. a lot of strength was put into the paint?

certain honda city are with single coating, meaning paint+clear coat were mixed as 1 layer...not traditional 2 layers, paint + clear coat..and its not even across the surface..that's what I heard earlier..

the compound u used earlier could be too abrasive for your paint condition, therefore the loss of 'gloss' is happening there. Luckily urs is silver? the condition is not that obvious...

if u go wif the touch-up paint route, lucky, u can cover the area and make it looks like original again, unlucky, it will look worse because even if the color code is the same, when it is applied on our car it may look different than our existing paint due to various reasons.

Alternatively, u can go wif non-abrasive polish and coat wif wax to "lighten" it up and make it less noticeable...which I think u shud try this way, as its more practical and cost effective, and less risky too compared to the above