The handle is a metallic plated part. There's no clear coat and no paint. Unlike paint, the plating is only very thin. I don't think there's much you can do here. Just use some strong sealant on it frequently.

Hmm it looks a bit like clearcoat is gone already for that part.....I might be wrong....

Seems like clear coat gone. If I'm not mistaken, there's some aerosol auto paint clear coat and also brush type touch up paint that you can buy and DIY. But could be difficult to patch up. I don't think that's a good idea. If you're really particular about it, I think you'll need to send to a paint shop. Else just apply sealant and close one eye.

This is the first time i hear someone polishing till clear coat is gone by hand...hmmm. a lot of strength was put into the paint?

How did you apply the scratchx 2.0? Its less abrasive compared to ultimate compound and you shouldn't normally be able to rub through the clearcoat.

Scratch X wo, you must've applied the compound with great pressure!
Its not the pressure that will fix your scratch la..  

Agreed. ScratchX is less abrasive than Ultimate Compound (UC). Furthermore UC is considered very safe for hand and machine.
See comparison in Meg online http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showt...4bG2O4HfDoLB.97
Very sakit hati  Could it just be hazing (rougher finishing) due to compounding/cutting effect from ScratchX and not actually clearcoat gone? It is hard to tell from the picture. If it is just hazing, you will need to follow up with a finer finishing polish like Ultimate Polish. You will need to be your own judge here. How hard did you scrub and for how long (time) did you scrub with the applicator pad? If it is not to hard and just for a short time, most probably it's hazing. But if you have a deep scratch and rub like there is no tomorrow, then maybe clearcoat koyak. Maybe other sifus can help to advise.

just wondering if you clayed it before polishing it?
there are chances that hazing might occur if you did not first clay it.

This is Honda SC or just any paint shop outside?
I would say shouldn't leave it unprotected in this kinda Malaysian weather.

Not sure exactly what you used, but it looks oil based. Your brake lamps/head lamps should be the same material, polycarbonate, maybe only less apparent on your headlamps. Hence, i'll use water based protection. Else, just skip protection and restore them (compound) periodically. I'm pretty sure you won't run out of polycarbonate or just let it be, maybe try a quick detailer and see if it clears it up a bit.

I would try to remove it soonest (if its hard to remove now.. imagine what baking under hot sun will do.. gentle on the products thou) and just use spray wax periodically to protect.

Not a bad idea, but just not necessary.  Rear lights is made of acrylic which will not oxidized,  unlike the front headlight.

Anyway,  I believe you are using meguiars headlight protectant which would leave a cloudy layer if not wipe off immediately.

Well I'm using meguiars headlight protectant as well. I made a mistake by letting it dry at the first time using it.

The cloudy layer will disappear in a month or 2, so don't worry. I guess that indicate how long does the protection last before reapplication needed.

Oh BTW don't polish your headlight if it is new.  Only polish it when it is oxidized. By polishing a new and clear headlight it means you are removing the protective clear coat comes with factory. As for the tail light it's okay to polish because no uv resistant coating involved.

6 months is kinda hard in our weather. I'd recommend Autoglym EGP or FK1000P. With regular maintenance (wash + spray wax) should last 3-4 months maybe. Meg Ultimate Wax is also okay but with slightly shorter durability in my experience. Those are synthetic wax (or sealant). If you are looking for natural wax, I don't have anything to suggest as I do not use natural wax. Natural wax gives a deeper gloss but is less durable than sealant.

Or you could go with those easy spray on SiO2 "coating". Should last a month or two.