If plan to just use rotary for small area polishing, I suggest getting vertical rotary polishers like Skil 9082. Lightweight, easy to handle and store.

I wouldnt recommend using cordless drill or any drill type tools because u cant control the speed.

I suggest getting new wash mitt. U could try using the chemical that u used to remove tar from your car body to also remove it from the wash mitt, but regardless its no longer safe to use on car body, should either throw away or confine its use to only cleaning rims and tyres.

Erm, I dont think its dual action that way. From Autogeek and Makita official website description, its actually “random orbit with forced rotation” (aka forced-rotation DA like Flex XC3401) or “random orbit with free rotation” (typical DA like Porter Cable or Rupes). So, technically there is no rotary function.

5.5mm throw isnt alot of cutting power though, as Flex XC3401 and Porter Cable 7424xp have 8mm throw and Rupes has 12mm-21mm depending on machine. Just my 2 sen.

Same thing. 2 different technical description for the same thing.

Like u said, its water marks, more specifically dirty rain water marks, most common and obvious in white cars, but happens to all cars. Not necessary to polish, I believe any form of liquid/paste wax should remove it.


I believe forced rotation machines rely on both throw and spin on its cutting power. Larger throw would have better cutting power also.


As chongkiatz said, Osren Tar Remover. I have it and its works quite well. Just need to wash with soap again after wiping off residue.

1) Osren Degreaser FX can be diluted for rim cleaning.
2) Carpro IronX (sold by Cquartz malaysia)
3) Cartec Wheel Cleaner (sold by Autocolortech Marketing)

All are bigger bottles than the one u are using.


I believe u mean grit guard. U can try purchase from ezbuy.my or taobao. Alternatively got forumer here share cheaper way by using the plastic sieve bowl with holes and turn it upside down.

Erm, fabric cleaner for rims? U sure? Starting to sound like Meguiars APC and Super Degreaser, cuz APC is recommended for interior cleaning and Super Degreaser for exterior. Hehe...

Erm, as far as I know D handles for polisher machines are designed specifically for the machine. Maybe u wanna ask the seller if they sell it?

Can use, long time dy.

May I recommend 3 possible options:
1) Try use a finishing pad (in LC colour terms it should be black/blue colour)
2) Take a spray bottle, put in water, add few squirts of Ultimate polish and use that as your polish cream
3) Work with slower DA speed.

Also, 2 more points to consider:
1) Clean pad thoroughly and frequently before starting new section
2) 1k lumens light may be too bright for inspection, even rupes pen-light is only about 140 lumens, try getting lower lumens light for future inspection.

Please feel free to trial and error.

Try folding 2 towels instead of 1 to thicken the towel so that u apply less pressure when wiping. If at the end of your polish cycle there is alot of polish dust, then dust them off with different towel before using your main towel to wipe the section. Flick or smack the towel frequently to let all residue fall off towel before wiping.

Also, generally if your car is light coloured (white, silver, etc), warm white torchlight is recommended for inspecting defects. For other solid and dark colours, then cool or pure white is recommended. This is from my personal experience and experimentation. Also have a spray bottle of diluted IPA ready to wipe clean surface to make sure polishing oils are not masking actual results.

Lastly, please dont hammer yourself if results dont come out as intended. Polishing takes alot of practice and experimentation. A majority of youtube videos dont show u the actual full process they go through in every car, they only highlight bits and pieces of what they wanna show. They always make it look and sound easy, but it rarely is. A number of youtube detailers are also professionals, so they have an arsenal of equipment and products in their hands to create that flawless finish, whereas most of us are more hobbyist and restricted to what we have and can afford to buy.

Hmm, I have never used it for killing bacteria or pests or odor, but apart from using it on cars, I use pure IPA for cleaning alot of light glue stains and stickers, cleaning thermal paste from CPU, cleaning ink marks, sometimes cleaning screens on phones and tablets before applying screen protector, etc.

Chrome plated plastic is quite different from chrome plated metal from what I understand. While chrome on metal can be hard and durable, so u can use metal or chrome polish and can remove defects and get mirror shine back, chromed plastic is quite soft, and most forms of polish abrasives will end up making more scratches than it removes. At best u will only get hazy finish by polishing chromed plastic.

I have read somewhere that some recommend trying PlastX or even wax cleaner products, but use it carefully. The best would be take care of the chrome to avoid any oxidation or scratches.

If for chrome metal, u can check out turtle wax (as mentioned earlier), meguiars or mothers. They have products for chrome metal polishing, especially for chrome rims.

Autosol is not so suited for chrome if not mistaken, it was made more for brass and other similar metals.

Have anyone have tried the following products:

1) Carpro Hydro2 Lite
2) Carpro Reload
3) Carpro Perl

I been doing alot of reading on these 3 products, but seems all 3 have mixed reviews, although most of them are based in US. Anyone here have good reviews of these products?

which part of the car? interior? exterior? dashboard? car door? rubber seals?

can try Meguiars ultimate protectant or interior protectant, or Osren Reblack or UV Dressing, or even Carpro Perl.

Osren pricing u have to check with them as they dont publish their pricing to public. Contact them via FB. Meguiars products u can search this forum in the Trade Zone or check Lazada.

Erm, what sort of detailing did u do? Front of wiper area technically is entire front bonnet, bumper, and both sides of front fender above wheel arches, correct?

I've never done wrapping of any sort before, whether clear bras or other forms of wrap, but I read that ppl mostly gave good reviews on wrapping. The Honda Civic X Malaysia group are positively commenting about a German clear bra film that can withstand scratches and stone chips and even mild abrasion from collision with other ppl's car.

That said, I personally think it kills the idea of car detailing hobby. I enjoy cleaning/polishing/protecting the car, so if wrap already then it removes the polishing and protecting aspect.

Mmm, I am not sure whether just wrapping the plastic parts are possible for some parts, or does it make sense. Maybe it would be better for u to apply trim protectant regularly on those parts instead?

Erm, from my knowledge there arent alot of choices in supermarkets. Perhaps u should consider shopping in lazada for a better wax? Btw a waxed car will still get dirty regardless of quality or brand.

I think it depends on how u define protection. How extreme are u wanting to protect your car paint?

If just want to maintain clean, a good wash + drying technique with good wash soap, wash mitt and drying towel can go a long way.

If want to maintain generally shiny, then add weekly wash with monthly or 2-monthly waxing can keep the general shine.

If wanna go into more detail and want to make the paint shine really pop, then add 6-12 months once compounding and/or polishing.

If want shine and water beading to last longer, then adding sealants should be considered every 4-6 months or coating should be considered every 1-3 years.

If want the ultimate protection that protects from even stone chips, scratches, swirls, etc, then protection film or clear bra.

For all these steps, there are many products and tutorials on car care inside out from reputable websites like Autogeek. This link Autogeek Tips can get u started.

I think that's part and parcel of car care life. Dont think its necessary to clean the car each time bad weather strikes just because u just had your car freshly detailed. Follow your normal regime and wash your car as more dirt accumulates. Save some water. Just my 2 sen.

Lol, brutal but true!

My preference is not so much about trying products, but collecting defects and see how to remove them when semangat strikes. Little scratches from lazy wash method, ppl door open hit my car, tar from road, small stone chips, water spots on windshield, etc. they are more satisfying when u managed to remove them and bring back the shine.

The only defect that I clear immediately are bird poop and tree sap, cuz from experience it can seep under the paint and cause rust to start from underneath and end up paint pop. That was a hard experience learnt.

My personal mantra: if paint screw up so bad already, respray lor.

Never used before Meguiar's Waterspot Remover, but I read from Mike Philips in Autogeek forum that the Waterspot Remover isnt a great product, thats why not much hype.

For glass polishing, generally any product that has Cerium Oxide in its chemical mix is good for glass. The only product I know available locally is Carpro Ceriglass.

For paintwork waterspot removal, I prefer to suggest using a rubbing compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound as it suits paintwork better. You can also check with Osren via their FB page on what they can recommend.

Think of compound and polish like sandpaper, compound is rougher and polish is finer. Compound can cut better into defects, polish is to remove the finest defects and bring back the shine.

While it is true that u will be removing a thin layer by compounding/polishing, but most modern cars since the 80s have been sprayed clearcoat, and the clearcoat is usually thick enough to withstand quite abit of compounding/polishing.

If you are doing hand-compounding or hand-polishing, u are removing far less paint compared to machine based compounding/polishing. Even with hand-compounding, there is a much smaller probability of u end up having swirl marks under sunlight (so long as u dont use too much pressure on the pad when compounding). Even if u do end up with swirls after hand-compounding, then just use polish to hand-polish to remove the swirls and bring back the shine.

As douglas_tong mentioned, from my personal experience it is not easy for your to grind down your paint till gone, unless u use some aggressive sandpaper like 80 grit and whack your car paint with it.

I do also agree with g88, since u already have the Meguiars Waterspot Remover, just try it on a small area and see what is the result. If it works, then good. If it doesnt, then try other products.

I use dynamo 30ml put in washing machine, but I put all microfiber cloth in those daiso laundry bag, and I dont mix microfiber washing with other clothes. I personally find dont need to use any special detergent. I also air dry in my room window only, minimum direct sunlight.