Just my 2 sen on rotary, Makita is a workhorse that has been a long favorite by professional detailers for a long time, but it is a heavy machine when compared to hitachi/ken/bosch. When polishing long hours on the side doors and panels, the makita weight can tire u out rather quick if u not used to it. I would suggest testing out each machine first before deciding.

Also, perhaps consider a DA machine instead. A good DA machine that doesnt have massive vibrations during operation can be a better companion for home based detailing.

Erm, not trying to challenge the guys at Osren, but AFAIK rotary has more base power than DA, which means that for cutting down scratches rotary is very good, but finishing swirl free is harder because of its power. DA on the other hand has lower base power, so cutting down scratches takes longer but swirl free is much easier to achieve.

Personally I would still suggest getting a DA because both your cars are japanese (which means their clearcoat is medium hardness), and u are also new to machine polishing. Then, if osren's perfect cut 20 cant finish swirl-free, try other polishes like meguiars ultimate polish or m205. Also, a good polishing/finishing pad helps.

DA is also great for applying waxes like what gfwong mentioned. Not recommended to apply wax with rotary.

In terms of combo, try different pads and polishes and u will find out which is best. Always, the principle is start from least aggressive method first.


Hehe, just sharing from experience, not so much of stopping, but more of knowing the factors that can affect usage.

From my experience, not true that rotary impossible to reach swirl free finish, it really depends on clearcoat hardness. There are 3 types of clearcoat hardness that I know of:

1) German clearcoat (hardest clearcoat, most common on German cars like Audi/BMW/Benz)
2) Japanese clearcoat (medium hardness)
3) Local clearcoat (lowest hardness)

With German clearcoated cars, it is fairly easy to finish swirl free on rotary, can even be done with polishing pad, not finishing pad. However, for Japanese and local clearcoat, it is harder to have swirl-free finish with rotary.

Actually with DA, some compounding can finish swirl free, so finishing polish is not necessary. I know in some cases using Meguiars m101 compound with DA can remove medium scratches and still finish with no hologram or swirls. More important is always start with a test spot, then test until u get the right process for swirl free finish, and that should be the system u use for the rest of the car.

For buffing off excess dry residue, what I normally do is spray with water, run the DA over it, and wipe off the wet residue. Give that a try next time u face any issue like that.

Erm every paint is abit different. Compounds, polishes and pads not designed to be car brand specific. Best for u to test with least aggressive method first, meaning start with polish and soft pad, then see results if satisfactory. If not, then either step up ur polish to compound or use a rougher pad, or both. Thats what I did during every car polish session in my shop days, and still do now at home. Hope this reduces your confusion.

Usually the polishing process need to run a few passes until the polish almost faded from your body panel, that would mean the amount of polish on the pad almost finish and time to stop to wipe off residue and reload your pad.

To know wether what u did is giving satisfactory result, u will need to use a warm white torchlight. Check out Ammo NYC and Osren youtube channels, they have a video to show how to check your results using torchlight.

For waxing, generally using DA machine it should not create any additional swirls if done correctly. Try not to apply any pressure on the machine to the body panel when waxing.

Lol, I believe each detailer to their own budget lor. If u can produce a car finish satisfactory to your own standard, then its mission accomplished.

OMG! sifu gfwong thanks very much for sharing! I always wondered where those yellow spots come from since I dont often park under any tree. Really good to know that its not as dangerous as bird poop.

The idea of the Meguiar's Headlight Protectant is the UV protection. It is like sunblock we put on our skin to prevent sunburn.

I have never personally used it before, but have read in other forums that the protectant is generally a short term solution that need to apply regularly. After restoring a faded headlamp, it is better to wrap it with clear tint from car accessories shop or use a UV-protection clear paint spray for longer term protection.

Original factory clearcoat is also sold in 3rd party market, so repaint shops do use pretty much the same clearcoats. U can even specify with repaint shop if u want harder clearcoats like German clearcoats so that it is more durable. So technically u are correct, no special care is necessary once repaint is dry and delivered to customer.

I believe thats why some ppl use wax cleaner. Claying alone only remove above surface contaminants that washing cant do. Deeper paint cleansing can be done with iron remover, tar remover, wax cleaner, etc.

Lol, I learn to dial down my OCD on detailing, I prefer to accumulate scratches and defects before sekali gus clear all at one go. Lazy to take out machine for small jobs. Only issues that I deal with immediately is water stains that come from ceilings and bird poop, because those are usually acidic and eats into paint over time.

Haha, actually I just bought Carpro IronX and TarX, but plan to use it on car body panel to remove contaminants and ease my claying process after that. For rims I use Cartec acid-free wheel cleaner (its alkaline instead of acid).

Try claying. If doesnt work, try wax cleaner. If doesnt work try polishing/compounding.

I suggest claying before reapplying wax after 2-3 months. Wax cleaner depends, do a test spot after claying to see if paint have stubborn dirt.

If dont clay and apply wax immediately, there is a risk ur wax and ur pad may pickup contaminants that will scratch the paint.

Hi guys. Got a random question for u guys as home detailing enthusiasts.

If there is a car detailing garage available for rent, facilities provided is pressure washer, air compressor with gun, vacuum cleaner and electrical extension, only bring your own chemicals and polishing machines, fully lockable and secured for overnight stay. Would u guys be willing to rent such a facility?

I put my microfiber cloths into small laundry bag and throw them into washing machine and use dynamo with lowest amount of liquid and lowest water setting on washing machine. Laundry bag important, else the microfiber will stretch when machine spin dry and lose its absorbtion.

I also throw my microfiber wash mitts into the washing machine at the same time, but no need laundry bag, hehe

Which brand of APC to use? I have only used Meguiars one before.

I have stains on my polish pad from Rupes polish liquid because it is grey colour. Would be nice to be able to remove those stains.

For waxing usually I wont bother re-washing or stripping polishing oils. As I am using paste wax, I feel that the rubbing wax on the panel "strip" the polishing oil and replace it with wax.

If I am applying coating/sealant then yes I will go one round with diluted IPA to make sure maximum adhesion of the coating/sealant and also to confirm that my polishing have been done to satisfactory level.

Sometimes polishing oils can fill the finest of swirls making u think u dont it right but actually still got defects.

Thanks for the info! Will try that out.

1) Nope, I buy as and when I need it, not necessary when closer to festivals.

2) I follow service schedule, so wont send to service just because of festival coming and traveling long distance. I am DIY detailer, prefer to detail car at home, because it has been my hobby since my first car over 10 years ago.

Coating is generally removed by compounding.

Better to compound. Not all parts of the coating will degrade the same time.

Should be able to, compound abrasives more aggressive than polish.

Can. Least aggressive method first is always the best principle. Just that ur question earlier was about removing coating, so my answer (which is given by coating manufacturers and diatributors) is compounding can remove coating.

Btw I no sifu la. There are plenty guys here more experienced than me. Just sharing knowledge and experience here like everyone else.