Not sure where to recommend for u, but where ever u go make sure they arent using acid to try solve your problem. Some detailing shops use acid to clean water spots on car windows but shouldnt use on any winshield that uses wipers (mainly front and some back for hatchbacks and SUV/MPV).

My microfiber cloth mostly from local detailing supplier that import from China. They try and test first, then sell to me what they find is good. Price is cheap, between RM10-25.

Detergent wise I use Dynamo, only 15-30ml per load depending how many towels and how dirty they are. I also use Dynamo for my regular clothes washing, so cost wise doesnt really count because it is not microfiber-specific.

Like douglas_tong mentioned, tyre shine. I use Meguiars Endurance Tyre Shine as the stuff is thick and lasts reasonably well. Only problem is it is quite oily, so I wear a plastic bag before holding the pad for tyre shine application.

Read back a few pages of this thread, got discussion regarding applying fusso as 1st/2nd/standalone coat.

I think windscreen depends if the car has many water spots or streaks. If got then can get the shop to polish.

Interior also see condition, if extra dirty or u want to one round clean all also they can do for u.

Rotary isnt as scary as ppl make it out to be. For those with totally no experience with machine polishing then should start with DA, but once u get the hang of DA, then learning DA is easier.

Main thing to remember about rotary polishing is surface heat. If u touch the panel and it almost burn your finger then it is too hot and time to stop and move to next section.

Hehe, guess its a figure of speech, not sure hot to best describe it for paint burn risks.

But actually from my experience, sorry but I dont agree on your point about pad disintegrating before clearcoat burn. From rotary standpoint, the pad has its own sort of "heat dispersion" when spinning, which slows heat buildup on the pad, whereas the paint surface when being rubbed by the pad constantly keeps building up its heat unless allowed to cool. Just my 2 sen.

Ah, I start to understand where u are coming from. However, do note that based on both videos, they are simulated tests in order to get an intended result. Think everyone here should know better than to leave the pad buffing at a spot for too long.

Just to understand which part of your rotary pads start to disintegrate first? From what I know pad disintegration most commonly happens from the sides, especially edges of velcro, where the backing pad "bites" the pad edge due to leaning the pad.

Ah if edges of velcro starts first then usually its due to pad sponge bigger than backing plate, so when u lean the pad sideways or put too much pressure on the pad when polishing it starts to grind the velcro edges.

For the contact part of the pad to the paint, I am guessing its probably more of a wear and tear. No pads last forever, even the expensive ones will degrade over time.

Hahaha, yes, I also lazy to start my next detailing project for now cuz of the hot weather. Nowadays even prefer to wash car at night cuz its cooler.

Agreed. There is a big variety of clearcoat types in the market, quite hard to gauge, so its always a trial and error with each different car.

May I ask if your polishing is done by hand or machine? And also whether do u compound each time before polish? Do u recall how many times u have compounded and polished your car?

There are specialty bug and tar removers that u can try to remove tree saps issue fairly easily. You can try that first.

I would prefer to suggest that regardless of whatever protection u apply for your car, more importantly please try to avoid parking under trees. I understand our tropical climate is hot so shade is always nice, but because tree sap and bird poop tends to drop from trees, they tend to bake into the paint with the heat.

If you want to speed up waxing time, u can actually get a DA polisher, then use a butter knife to scrape your paste wax and lay on your DA pad and apply wax that way. It definitely speeds up the waxing process.

Generally yes, although I believe there are other more economical ways to strip wax than bug/tar remover. But if u just want to remove some area that have bug/tar/treesap, u do have to apply back ur wax/sealant after that.

Checked it out on youtube, interesting product, but not sure on the effectiveness in the claying part though. Is it for sale in Malaysia? Have not seen it around.

Mmm, maybe u wanna define durable? Waxes tend to last anywhere between 1 week to 1 month depending on weather conditions, sealants can go anywhere between 1 month to 3-6 months based on manufacturer's labels. There are options like Meguiars, Osren, Carpro, Swissvax, Zymol, etc. Also, u want spray-on-buff-off type, or use applicator pad type? Try checking out pages like Autogeek, even though US site it will give u plenty info on what's out there so that u can start narrowing down.

Commonly for exterior trim ppl would either use a trim protectant or tyre wax to apply for protection. I have never heard of ppl using dye, so not sure if it would work or would look natural.

Just to give abit advertising to Dent Pro Malaysia:

Anyone that have dents and dings on your car, and u want to repair it without having to respray, please do give Dent Pro Malaysia a visit. I went here today to have a dent on my Civic repaired, previously I went to another shop and they say had to drill a hole into the wheel arch to reach. This guy Mr Johnny Wong is really experienced, said no need to drill, just undo the clip from the wheel arch cover, then his tools went in and got the dent out! Really detailed and experienced guy, definitely a joy to watch him make dents just pretty much disappear!

Johnny Wong
Dent Pro Malaysia
18, Jalan Utama Seksyen 9,
Serdang Raya, Seri Kembangan
Selangor
Tel: 019-758 7304

U can whatsapp him a pic of your dent and he will give u a quotation on his charges. Definitely worth the money!

Check out gfwong's blog and wax review, might help:

http://carporchdetailer.blogspot.my/2017/0...est-update.html

No worries bro, ur info is good for sharing.

Agree with u on this, in fact for all liquid car detailing chemicals also should shake before use. I kena before with my wheel cleaner, using like normal then visit the shop I bought from and see why their liquid is darker color, went back and realise if I shake my bottle then color also come out same.

Did u prep the car beforehand? Clay/Polish/IPA wipe?

For DIY at home, can try Gyeon Cure or Carpro Cquartz.

Actually hard to say for lighting standpoint, depends on car color and how bad the water marks are. If black or dark color cars probably can see under most lighting conditions. If light color cars, u can try park near yellow streetlights at night and use the streetlight reflection to see. Generally I prefer to do watermark test, which is use damp cloth and wipe dry car panel. The invisible spots usually appear for short while in those situations and they usually look round-ish.

For removal, just as everyone else here say, the gradual step up process is clay > wax cleaner > polish > compound, so try each step and see if it remove, if it doesnt then move to next step. Hope that helps.

My wife's old car did PPS coating before. Her car was VW Polo white color, turned yellowish after 1 year. Polished off the PPS coating and applied glass coating, no more yellowing. Just sharing from experience.

I think it really depends on car color. White car main issue is always yellowing, and because PPS is teflon based, I read from other forums also mention about yellowing.

Glass/ceramic coating on the other hand, wont have yellowing as I know, but their main issue is water spotting. Since u are sending a black car, just to let u know stuff like stone chips/swirls/water spots are usually most visible compared to white/light coloured cars.

Think regardless of the coating protection u choose, just make sure they do a good job polishing your paint to their best level possible before applying coating. Once coating dries and the defect underneath not removed, then its technically sealed in and have to wait to next round of polishing.

PS: I do my own coating at home, so cant give u recommendations of coating shops to try, sorry.

First off I would suggest that u dont park under any tree shade or near trees. Even though it provides shade from sun and car not so warm, but that's the place where most birds will come and go, so will their poop.

Secondly, regardless of whatever protection u apply (with exception of paint protection film), bird poop is often strong enough to eat through and eventually leave stains or worse will rust the body panel from inside and u will see paint pop. My suggestion is buy a roll of Dettol antibacterial wet wipes from AEON, and as and when u see such bird poop, wipe it off and use a dry cloth to wipe off the soapy residue. Even if u dont want to buy wet wipes and wipe off, then whenever u get home from work, just take your garden hose and spray off the bird poop. Even if u lazy to dry off the car after that, at least bird poop gone.

Thirdly, it depends on how hardworking u are in cleaning your car. If u wash it every week (or send to wash every week), then waxing should be just enough generally. But if u dont wash your car very often, then coating is not a bad idea, but be prepared to pay much more for coating as they also do polish your car before coating.

Hope this helps.

Aggressive clay bars are abit harder to find cuz usually it is professional grade. Maybe u wanna try a regular but good quality clay bar or clay cloth instead.

If still looking for aggresive clay bar, look for Meguiars Aggresive Detailing Clay. Alternatively, can contact Osren see if they have any solutions for u.