the amplifier of svs sb1000 is more powerful than dali's (300w vs 170w) and the frequency range also wider as compare to dali (24-260 vs 28-190 hz).. svs also having a smaller cabinet size even with the same driver size.
also comparing the frequency response graph (in dali whitepaper - i dont understand the purpose of the graph with no frequency marking on X axis ).. Dali can play louder and at a unknown frequency peaked (could be 80hz/100hz - i m not sure) and start rolling off after that.. meanwhile svs still able to maintain its high frequency response at wider range before roll off observed after 200hz.

plenty or not i m not sure.. you gonna try and let us know like i said the frequency response vs spl provided by the manufacturer doesn't even have proper indicator for us to judge.

hf cut off depends on fronts and avr.. i said 80hz-120hz is fair unless u got a very capable front and strong avr... the lower frequency you send to your front the more power needs to delivered from AVR.

i agree the smooth freq response is important
Dali:

SVS:

read from the page will be easier due to the background color: https://www.svsound.com/products/sb-1000
Maybe you can tell which 1 is smoother..

No offence to hardcode Dali supporter, i do not own both svs sb1000 nor dali ef12. i m just picking up the mentioned spec from the website and compare to my knowledge without bias. Of cos, mtgh has some time and money he can always buy and try where if he is not happy he can sell it off like what you said..

This post has been edited by kevinlim001: Jan 4 2021, 08:39 AM

you own 4 dali subs? on the chart, how you can tell it actually starts from 20hz? i read nothing..i do guessing over the graph

my front can do 40hz but when i drop the crossover to 60hz i m losing the details also.. so i prefer my sub to do the hard work instead.. maybe mtgh is having excellence front like you do he can put the cross over as low as you did

for me its merely our assumption.. how difficult for them to mark the axis?

yea whatever works for the ear.. there's no single rule that can be applied for all..

This post has been edited by kevinlim001: Jan 4 2021, 04:00 PM

if you are happy with Samsung Q950T then you should stick to it.. investing on separate component is different at whole level not to mention if you want to have a atmos setup.. 3800 is even difficult for a second setup (AVR+Speaker)..but if you have tried AVR+Speaker setup you will never go back to sound bar..

dont think you are asking in the correct thread.. but anyway..

does your laptop support optical output? if not, i dont recommend this type of conversion.. your laptop soundcard change the audio from digital to analog to output to 3.5mm jack.. then you need to do a conversion to digital back using ur cable then ur speaker will again change from digital to analog

does it worth the trouble?

if you are serious about audio and willing to invest, you can consider DAC/Headphone Amp like Fiio K3.

connect it thru usb to your laptop and the digital audio out from k3 to your speaker. the good thing about this is you can still keep this unit even after you upgrade your laptop or you want to use it on your desktop. Fiio that i m using can be considered as upgrade over most of the build in sound card that laptop/desktop offer. The best of it, you wont go thru the conversion over conversion where you will lost audio signal every time it get converted.

option are quite limited actually..
Waderfale
Elac
Polk
Pioneer
Yamaha

Why do you need a sub?
1) if you want to have louder low mid freq then yes you can invest on 3070s
2) If you want to have more complete freq range (20hz to 20khz) then 3070 is not suitable.

your 3050i can cover the freq between 44hz - 30khz
3070s freq range 50Hz - 150Hz

meaning to say your 3070s actually falls in the range of where your 3050 is covering.. does it that means it wont make a different if you add 3070s into your existing system.. the answer is no.. depends on how you set the cross over.. you still might get double bass or stronger bass as compare to 3050i working alone.

If we are talking about music, we often want to hear all the frequency between 20hz to 20khz.. you existing setup will miss out 20-44hz freq range.. this is where we want sub to do the job to fill up the gap. ideally the sub need to cover at least from 20-150hz or even lower.

If we are talking about movies, the requirement is even higher as we want it goes lower than 20hz to bring us lfe impact.

All these are ideal case which i haven talk about the drop in certain freq at certain vol which varies from speakers to speakers.

for sub i will recommend at least get 10 inch. 8 inch min if you are using it for music only... the bigger the driver it can dives into lower frequency.. that's the general rule of thumb like bigger hp car = faster

if you can top up ur budget <2000, maybe klipsch sub is something that you can consider but it wont match well with the look of your 3050
if you desperately and need to have a subwoofer, you can consider yamaha/pioneer which cost less than 1k. it can give you some lfe but you cant expect good audio quality from it..
if you have budget > 3k you can look for svs

ideally la if you dont care then ignore.. if not 25hz to 30hz is also good enough.. most of the floor stander can do around 40hz d, you will feel it.. but find something 10inch min you cant defy the rule of physics.. u cannot bawak kancil and try to challenge 200kmh
ur 3070 is dual 6.5" it certainly will play louder at certain freq but you are missing some freq in the other hand.. by right your crossover setup should be 80hz at ur 3050i and below 80hz is sub realm.. u bought a 1.5k sub that give u 50-80hz.. might as well i pay yamaha which able to give me 25hz - 80hz that cost <1000.. of cos audio quality between the two sub is another topic to cover

unless u r really pro and you figure out you dont need the extra low frequency and you found your 3050i setup you try out all d but missing out the chunk of 50 - 100hz range then 3070i is something you can consider.

This post has been edited by kevinlim001: Feb 4 2021, 02:48 PM

very much agree bro.. but that will required good floor stander and amp.. low freq need a lot of juice from amp.. i dun have both so i rather my sub take the punishment and relief it from my amp + not so great fronts

i m using a svs sub my dad i bought him a yamaha sub.. later i find the model... he have very minimal requirement for sub so i bought him yamaha... my comment is.. it will do the job but not impressive way..

short list a few model and see if any shifu here can help you sw300 how much? 1.3k?

dont say your last line la sound like u sudah tak boleh... i am always here we can always share...
i forgot if i have share to you or somebody else...
i had tested... i drop my crossover 60 i lost the dynamic and detail from the fronts.. my floor standing can do 40hz.. the bass is better but i lost the dynamic so i reverted to the setting and let the sub do the job instead.
even for thx they recommend 80hz crossover thats why i always recommend ppl who new in HT to start with 80-120hz.. one day they will become pro like u they will know how to play with..

any reason beside pricing that you like q accoustic sub? is it because of the look?
if you want sometime that look rounded edge with some glossy finishing KEF can be a good option also keke.. looks good but exp la.. more exp than svs entry level sub

u spoil my mood to upgrade d keke

you got extra budget to upgrade avr?
ur sub says 1.5k budget u have another 2k in hand to upgrade avr?
my suggestion is to do it one by one.. because you buy all entry level stuff.. i dunno where is your destination.. maybe you can share with us how you want your future setup to be

my questions for you
1) What AVR you are using now?
2) Do you play games PS5/XBOX? or you want your equipment to support for it?
3) What is your future upgrades? 5.1? 7.1? Atmos - 5.1.2?
4) Does your tv support high refresh rate like 120hz or HDR10+ or Dolby Vision?
5) What kind of media you often play for movies? Bluray? Netflix? Or Jack Sparrow?
6) How big is your room?

1911 you bought second hand? u been using it for more than 10 years but without a subwoofer?

audio wise i dont see any upgrade for you to change from 1911 to x1600h / v4a (v4a is even downgrade in terms of amplification power / number of supported channels).. the only reason you could benefits is over the picture that support 4k (which your 1911 doesnt) and high refresh rate with HDR that your PS5 / TV can support..

if you are not planning to upgrade further from 5.1 i will suggest the below:
1) focus your budget a get a proper subwoofer... at least for now i dont see technology that will make subwoofer phase out.. meaning a good subwoofer can live with you for a long time..even u change AVR/TV/PS6 later your subwoofer may still work perfect.. aim for SVS PB2000/SB2000 min
2) You got a ps5 compatible tv.. i will run my direct connection of PS5 to TV to gain the advantage over video then use ARC channel back to AVR for 5.1 audio.. ps5 is not so demanding when it comes to audio..

once you have your subwoofer d then you can plan to upgrade your AVR.. look for x3000+ series from denon.. that will give you more amplification and more channels support with preout in case you need to do future upgrade + MultEQ XT32 audyssey

plan our your journey i think most of us upgrade step by step.. learn along the way and appreciate the result from the upgrade..

if budget is your constraint i will go for x1600h instead of v4a

not sure bro but i m playing over my living room... 26ft x 16ft + joined dining area.. normally i will play around -15db to -0 db over movies.. i replaced my svs pb1000 driver before.. as there are cracking noise as i tend to drive them hot

- HT Setup -
LG OLED C9 77"
SVS Ultra Bookshelf (L/R) | SVS Ultra Center
SVS Prime Bookshelf (Surrounds) | SVS Prime Elevation (Atmos) | Dual SVS SB3000
Emotiva A500 | Yamaha RX-A3080 | Parasound A52+

- HiFi Setup -
STAX SRL700 | Wharfedale Evo 4.2
STAX SRM353X| JDS Labs EL DAC | Parasound Hint 6


kekeke

if i m not wrong 90% of chances ur edifier doesnt support hdmi in..
what you are doing is correct and simple.. you can also connect your tv box to speaker directly using RCA but it doesnt makes a lot of different from what i see
audio cable if you mean is RCA cable then i dont think is possible.. your TV most likely doesnt provide RCA in / Digital In

boss ur ref level not ref ka?