Ya. The reason I suggested 26-27 with 2 speed ceiling fan is to induce a windchill equivalent of 24-25.

Good tip. Now if it only can be pinned.

Depends on the pipe manufacturing source. As long as it's before 1995-2000 and not from China, and previous compressor didn't suffer from burn out, it "can tahan". You need to perform a leak test as well as N2 flush/purge. That's what I did for mine. Where you based? See also this link.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 26 2016, 12:26 PM

Most likely I won't recommend unless new pipes are used. Can't guarantee their durability unlike those produced in the old days and unless specific brands are used.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 26 2016, 05:30 PM

Brands less than a third of the equation. Also have a look at Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (MHI) -3D airflow (up down and left right even in 1HP). Very good for flexible room cooling when faced with odd placement. Choose those with anti mould / self clean operation. This prevents mould build up in the blower. Negative ions freshens the air and aids self clean mode to keep it mould free.

Assuming average use is 8 hours daily, regular maintenance and most crucially the pipes are installed the way they are installed here, most brands today may last at least 5 years if lucky. If you can upgrade the piping to spec, different story - that it helps ensure consistent gas condensing (from liquid to gas by ejecting heat at compressor ) and evaporating ( from liquid to gas at blower when absorbing room heat) characteristics. Most of our practice here wrap both pipes using one insulation jacket. The correct method is one insulation jacket per pipe.

It'll become noticeable sooner when there's a leakage due to poor quality pipes being used. Frost develops on the cooling fins and bent them. You can't see it unless you hear that soft crack or popping sound when ice forms and expands and start bending the fins. Pop open the blower cover and the damage is noticeable. Also frequent high power operation in event of leakage may contribute to compressor burn out. All depends on how bad the leakage, frequency of usage, duration, mode (cooling mostly), fan blower level and temperature set. The more extreme the setting (20°C), the sooner if there's leakage. Older Jap or Thai made Daikin has compressor protection feature where it will shut down and issue error codes to indicate. Other brands have to ask manufacturer sales man or their manual. This brings back to the emphasis on high quality piping with individual insulation per pipe and installer workmanship. In SG, they use Inaba Denko Paircoil (JP), Armaflex Armacell (UK), K-Flex (US), Eurobatex (IT), Smartco Paircoil (KR), Kembla Coil (AU). I've used Smartco and Inaba Denko before and they do make a difference and there's no frost on cooling fins in the indoor unit. Local brands here also have Superlon and Insulflex but these need to be wrapped over copper pipes unless they have pre-sleeved piping models like the ones above.

Then there's voltage irregularity to deal with i.e. which one has wide voltage operational range, lightning surge protection (outdoor placement) and component's humidity stress endurance (reliability).

Every time using AC during hazy seasons or not at all, service it right after it goes away. Treat every haze season as a period equivalent of excessive usage due to the dust settlement on the compressor esp the rotating parts. If not... keak keak keak keak keak...

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 29 2016, 02:46 AM

That's less of an issue since AC will be pre-charged with refrigerant up to a certain length before needing extra. Just follow manufacturer's top up spec as it's given in the installation manual. Just be sure the installer follow minimum clearance from walls and ceilings esp for kimchi brands to ensure compressor longevity.

Get a proper installer. Normally indoor unit should use flaring nut which is tightened with a torque wrench. Otherwise it will make installation expensive and iffy. If welding is needed, there's a big risk that it will leak. The only time welding is done is when extending its length on a location / placement change from the original location. Thereafter, a pressure leak test is needed for two weeks to ensure it holds.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 31 2016, 09:03 PM

Depends. If the space opens into the kitchen or dining, 2.5 to 3HP might be able to cope with the enlarged area. Also if your home is landed, 2.5HP would be minimum due to ground heat intrusion if you don't have a porch that covers the whole width of the front. Condo should be ok with 2.0HP.

You can check my postings here that covers BTU calculation.

Yes, your observation is consistent since at night, heat dissipates. On a clear night, by 12-3am, most of the heat stored up in the walls and roof would have dissipated depending upon house orientation and degree of shading. The decreasing heat load is only a fraction of what it is in the day our even at 10:30pm.

The key to savings by the inverter is the frequent compressor on-off which maintains the temperature at very fine degree that we hardly notice. In contrast, a non inverter has a wider temperature swing such that suddenly too hot then much later suddenly too chill. Thus inverter already save when start to use whereas non inverter is constant operation at their rated power which has health ramifications in the long term.

The other function that I like in newer AC is the sleep mode esp if combined with ceiling fan. In this climate, just dress like for PE/PJ, use a thin blanket or long sarong or fleece blanket or cotton duvet/comforter/quilt cover alone without any fillings in them. Preset AC on AUTO at 28°C (26°C if warmer nights with heavy cloud cover) and 2 speed fan cukup. Timer it to off just an 30-120m before waking up like an alarm clock . Or just use the sleep mode which does the equivalent.

But no one at home during the day? That was my bill in my old condo when both of us worked and were only home by 8-9pm. We even had energy savers installed.

Thks for sharing. The AC installed in a landed (upper floor or downstairs) or condo with room facing which direction and size of room?

The principle they took in its design is to leverage the Coanda effect. Sharp's AC also does that via the Gentle Cool feature which was available since 2009 in our region. In Indonesia it's still called Coanda cool. Daikin in Europe are also following suit at least in the UK. Good to see many more manufacturer validating the usefulness of this method of air dispersal. The best use case for this is young children even infants and aged parents. They don't suffer from AC chills. Inverter combined is best as the temperature variation is uniform that the body don't suffer from chills vs non-inverter. I mention this before in the older AC threads, combine it with 2 speed fan and set the temperature to 27-28°C. The windchill effect from the fan brings down the temperature by 2° as felt on the skin. Saves power consumption too. On rainy days, the fan speed is set to 1 or not in use at all.

The nice effect you felt is drier (lower) humidity ranging from 50-65%. The same phenomenon is felt with marble flooring as they absorb excess humidity vs tiles.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Mar 14 2017, 03:21 PM

Perhaps sales team not educated hence missed opportunity for early introducers ie Sharp.

I've been using Sharp Plasmacluster inverter which has Coanda effect just that they are called Gentle Cool in our country. Used it with great benefits in my children's room in combination with lowered speed ceiling fan. They don't fall sick or cough as I use very minimal cooling hence the humidity does not dry out the lungs even after 10 hours.

Heating mode not for our country so can ignore.

But Coanda is a crucial feature that's sorely needed for the health of the occupants. More often then not, 7 out of 10 elderly I know have health complains due to the way the AC current air dispersal pattern even with the louvre/air vanes pushed to it's highest setting which is still 10-15° below the horizontal plane ie still blowing downwards. After a certain time they wake up turn off AC.

I have to educate them this method: precool room, drink lots of water and only enter the room when about to retire for the night. Then before sleeping set it to 27-28°C AUTO and use 2 speed fan and if needed time AC to turn off after a prescribed hours used. Today's AC have sleep mode to achieve this.

With non Coanda equipped AC, the only way to overcome this is placement: ensure that it's installed high enough if possible so that the louvre/vane at its highest position doesn't blow directly at the occupants. Not possible all the time due to placement of bed, max allowable height of AC installation and proximity to occupants. Perhaps for the older AC, a DIY deflector that attaches to the AC louvre may be able to simulate Coanda effect if one is skilful enough.

What I discovered is the newer generation inverters have improved to not dry the air out too much for the sake of the occupants health. Also inverters in general have uniform temperature variation in fraction of a degree compared to +/-1.5-3°C which causes unhealthy chilly-heaty effect. I suppose that's where AC sleep mode comes in.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Mar 15 2017, 08:10 PM

Why not just go with a Sharp Plasmacluster with gentle cool? They add self cleaning feature that prevents mould build up. Plus the long throw (14m). For the York you mentioned, unless mounting can be set very high such that the louvre/air vane blows over the head of occupants seated down. With the Sharp, that won't be an issue since Gentle Cool will aim air upwards.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Mar 16 2017, 01:58 PM

Yes, good, have non inverter:-
AHAP[9/12/18/24]SMD
(1/1.5/2/2.5) HP

Check their micro-site or contact this seller. Based on the model try Lazada.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Mar 16 2017, 08:36 PM

See other older threads. I've used Carrier, National, Sanyo, York, Daikin, Panasonic, Hitachi, Sharp, Samsung, Mitsubishi Electric and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

Sharp, Sanyo, Toshiba Daiseikai and LG is not bad also. Here perhaps because focus and response is on these two and York but that doesn't mean the other brands are not good, just not prominently mentioned. Even Electrolux and Midea is catching up in feature parity.

What I look for now in bedrooms: self cleaning, air purification, Coanda, energy saving, sleep mode, auto up down left right.

Sharp fits the bill esp with their new line up. One version generation past introduced long throw.
MHI - very good for odds corner placement due to their 3D air flow even with 1HP.

The rest about the same in feature but performance wise some quiet than others. Daikin has always been a nice choice esp mould proof operation and other features. Samsung Triangle also has caught up with self clean. This helps reduce mould growth.

Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. Their inverter have 3D ie auto up down left right even for 1HP. See here and their FB video.

One thing that distinguishes 3D from all other make's auto up down and left right is that MHI's has one motor for left and one for right such that in 3D they can fan the blower to a wide dispersal pattern.

Hence in manual mode, one of the 8 basic air dispersal configuration can be set if you don't want auto 3D and according to room and AC placement, set to some degree of how much to the left (or right) the air vane should be directed.

Imagine an L shape room with aC placed in such a way that it can blow both ends at the same time (L and R fixed) and auto up down to induce a gentle billowing breeze.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Mar 18 2017, 02:28 PM

Needed. Did that for my old pipes. Something about their chemical composition doesn't agree with the R410a equipment or vice versa.