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halcyon27
post Jun 9 2015, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jun 9 2015, 03:09 PM)
Yesterday that guy told me compressor got run, but cut off due to too hot, and the gas level inside is low.

For the ppl that got some sense on aircond system will know this either due to compressor run out of gas (due to piping leakage) or the piping is bend and dented so the pressure is too high due to restricted flow. Unless i really fucking unlucky to get a lemon unit which i believe the chance is low. That's why i almost 100% confirm something is wrong in during installation, and the most suspicious one is the piping.

I asked him piping ok or not, he said: I check adi no leak no bend...WTF, how do you know there is no leak without leak test..i really speechless.
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Get another AC installer do a pressure leak test. Normally use nitrogen and then seal up both ends without AC. Take reading and another 2 weeks later to determine if there's a leak. Are you in Klang Valley?
halcyon27
post Jun 11 2015, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jun 11 2015, 02:45 PM)
Update for my ME aircond.

Just now ME service man checked my aircond. The conclusion they made was during copper pipe welding, the solder was went inside the pipe, eventually clogged the compressor and valve. shocking.gif They release all the gas inside and refill it, and said the gas is 'choking' inside. They said will order compressor motor and valve inside to replace, and the indoor unit cooling coil need to flush as well. They also asked me to reinstall the new copper pipe without welding. So i went to the shop that I purchased.

The boss is very kind (Maybe my face is very angry), he kept apologize to me for introduce such contractor, he said he had a meeting with the contractor boss yesterday, and they adi dismissed those guys who install my aircond that day. hmm.gif  unsure.gif He also promised the contractor boss will come himself to install for me. Then i told him the checking result by ME, and i said i can't accept repair, he promised to change a whole new set (both indoor and outdoor) for me. So let's see what happen next. Luckily i din pay them full amount that day, else i'm not sure whether they still willing to bother me or not.
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Good to know. Something new. This means the solder clogged compressor and valve. The ideal method of piping is compression joints like those use in Thailand.
halcyon27
post Jun 14 2015, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(mghong @ Jun 14 2015, 12:38 AM)
i getting 1hp / 1.5hp/ 2hp all pana inverter recently so far still ok  touch wood.

going to next phase now , either getting pana again or daikin ...really want to try other brand but contractor said..better dont..(maybe not much commission ) hahahah
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Bedroom or non bedroom? Bedroom try Sharp plasma cluster inverter. The fourth generation inverter much improved. Using first gen in old DSH for kids room and blow air ceiling wards. Cool cocoon at 28° with 1-2 speed fan produces windchill like 26-27° yet at comfortable humidity.

What's the price of the pana inverter for the model you installed?
halcyon27
post Jun 14 2015, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jun 11 2015, 08:39 PM)
today the ME service man told me i still can turn ON my aircond, but won't be at its peak performance. So just now when i back home i turn ON the aircond, the air is not as cold as expected, but still better than nil...after 10 minutes, you know what, WATER START TO DRIP OUT FROM MY INDOOR UNIT AND WET MY FLOOR.

Awesome bastard, YOU ARE NOT GETTING EVEN A SINGLE ITEM INSTALLED CORRECTLY. thumbup.gif
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Bro, if the AC refrigerant flow is impaired this will happen. Same if there's a leak or there's not enough charge. I can't explain it but it happen also if the windows or door is not closed and the AC is near it. Installers are hit and miss. If you're in Klang Valley I can recommend one.
halcyon27
post Jun 14 2015, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jun 14 2015, 03:17 PM)
I never compare with other brand, solely based on what i got is good, but just too expensive.

No matter how, when i move in to the new house, the 2hp inverter i opt for living room will never be ME i think...would like to give a try to Daikin or Hitachi.
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MHI can consider. Very flexible air flow pattern. See here. I use Sharp 2.5HP but previous generation AHXP24MV due to the ability to deflect air flow to the ceiling, self cleaning and plasmacluster. New generation has long air throw.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jun 14 2015, 10:06 PM
halcyon27
post Jun 22 2015, 11:28 AM

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Only very small hotels with very small finite number of rooms (no more than than 10) may use inverter but for the cost per unit. In SG most of what I've seen goes towards VRV (variable refrigerant volume) kind of tech. Larger places would use air handler units (AHU) and probably water chilled units. The regular maintenance of air filters and cleaning of indoor unit will eventually hike up operating costs.
halcyon27
post Jun 22 2015, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(westley0214 @ Jun 22 2015, 10:24 AM)
It depends on the room size. Of course if your inverter air cond can reach the desired temp, you will save electricity.

For big rooms which will forever cannot achieve desired temperature, you won't save any electricity at all.

Seriously you need to understand the mechanism on the savings.
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Actually what most of us call living room depending on the house layout is a misnomer. Although on the drawing/plan it specifies living and dining, the word room is not there. It's more like living spaces and dining spaces where the area actually is one large open floor space. If I were to size AC correctly, it would have to include both or have two AC. Second option means more hacking which is already a challenge for condos.

I also discovered that to size it correctly is not easily acheived. Say that I want to put a 2.5 or 3 HP AC. Some condos have casement windows with fixed middle bar (to secure closure of window) that is not wide enough to allow 2HP compressor hence only 1.5HP max. Only those with balcony spaces that have AC ledges next to it or the unit is on the first floor and it's within reach of a 16' ladder. Very frustrating.

So when in my current place, I decided to address this issue where the AC would forever run due to leakages of open space layout. I added a close-able glass door partition separating the living from the dining. With this in place, the partitioned space can be called a room. Only then can the AC run and then 'cut out' when the preset temperature is reached. Usually it's 27-26 degrees and 25 only when the sun is out and it's really humid. Ceiling fan helps disperse cool air.

Thus, the area has to be evaluated as to whether it's well defined by enclosed by walls and doors/narrow opening or it's actually one large space where there's an architectural demarcation (living or dining) in which case if there's no partitioning to be used, go for a larger AC. For condos, it's good if there's a balcony since that doesn't restrict the use of a 2.5 or 3.0HP.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jun 22 2015, 11:58 AM
halcyon27
post Sep 26 2015, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 21 2015, 08:27 AM)
Got this yesterday, cheap n good for overall MHI Daiya sys 2, comes with heating somemore, not very sure cause never use before laugh.gif

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Can dedicate the room as some sort of sauna by turning up the heat. biggrin.gif Just make sure to use dry mode first before heating up so the air not so kuk (humid).

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2015, 04:00 PM
halcyon27
post Sep 26 2015, 05:27 PM

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QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Sep 24 2015, 01:30 PM)
i have a panasonic aircon. i use it once a week. after using for 11 months (from date of purchase), the fuse on the main (indoor) unit circuit board blown (as told by panasonic technician). after pcb replacement, everything was ok until today (4 months later), the aircon is not working. i think it is the same problem.

before the panasonic, i had a toshiba. it went dead too, hence i changed it to panasonic.

any idea what could be the culprit?
is this a common panasonic aircon defect?
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1.AC HP of Toshiba and Panasonic? Was Toshiba inherited as is or newly installed over an older AC with lower HP?
2. AC point newly added or existing?
3. What other circuitry shares the same fuse from the electrical db with the AC point? What's the fuse rating? This one needs the home manual from developer that shows circuitry if provided else need to test trip one by one to isolate. Question is whether it shares w other demanding appliance on the same circuit unbeknownst to you.
4. How old is the electrical cabling since before the AC was installed? Was it recently renovated and installed?
5. Location of the problematic AC compressors? Any sign of lightning activity striking the house even when AC not in use?
6. House location relative to others - how is powered distributed - this one more about voltage sag/dip but other components in the house could be affected as well besides the AC if this was the issue.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2015, 05:28 PM
halcyon27
post Sep 26 2015, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Sep 26 2015, 07:53 PM)
1. one horsepower. toshiba was inherited. it was an old model and operate fine previously. one day, it just died. panasonic replaced it later.
2. existing.
3. it only powers the aircon power point and 2 normal points in the living room (which is normally not used). fuse rating = 16A.
4. 25 years old
5. compressor is under the roof, protected from rain and sun. if there's sever thunderstorm, whenever there's lightning, 90% the main circuit breaker (the one that trips off the whole house power) will open-trip.

*also check out my measurement on post#1200.
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QUOTE(supersound @ Sep 26 2015, 09:16 PM)
Looks like you have leakage somewhere.
Since you know some troubleshooting skills, here's another thing you shall do which is check where's the leak.
You need to check all the plug points, the test all simple only, you need to connect 1 wire to live/neutral and then short it to the earth, if it trips the ELCB ,that point are normal, if it does not trips, then that's the plug point that having problem.

BTW, you shall not 1 split to >1 consumer for air cond plug point.
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Hmm, seems like you kinda nailed the issue. I'd follow supersound's advice or if not confident enlist a qualified electrician to test it out. Most likely a new line dedicated to this AC alone needs to be pulled on a separate 16A fuse if extra slots are available.

Unless you can trace every electrical or drilling work done to just before the Toshiba started to konk it could have been something that might have caused such a leakage. If this wire somehow is for an upstairs AC, some times the wires runs along the roof space to the usage point and who knows some curious smallish mammal could have a field day fraying or gnawing it or the cable was stretched to its limit and had worn (frayed) out over the years of usage. I don't know if that's a possibility.

Most AC have voltage sag tolerance up to 185-200V. Some newer generation like the Samsung triangle claimed even 160V but to what effect that has on the copper wire I don't know.
halcyon27
post Sep 28 2015, 07:27 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Sep 27 2015, 11:05 PM)
Well, if the plug point are not that good, you may get arching which cause you to feel scare to do it laugh.gif
But you can always wear a rubber glove and rubber shoe or DIY a test plug.
Safest is still get an electrician to have a check. For me that been dealing with 6.6KV before, 250V are nothing to feel worry about icon_rolleyes.gif
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Good advice. 240V should be less scarier with proper protection. Hey, another possibility..What about if electric gate punya point also come from this circuit?

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 28 2015, 07:28 AM
halcyon27
post Nov 8 2015, 06:57 AM

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QUOTE(kimcil88 @ Nov 7 2015, 08:50 PM)
so the condensation that cause water drops 2x previously will cause the gas run out faster or not? Top up gas will cost bomb
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Condensation is a normal phenomenon. Kopi/Teh C ping will have cold water droplets formed on the glass. That's ambient air condensing on a cold surface. Why? There's always moisture in the air measured in relative humidity (%) and at a certain minimum temperature, dew would form. That is called the dew point. In the morning when at certain ambient temperature, if the humidity is high enough, mist will form. Same like car windscreen on the outside every morning when it's fogged up. Same like car windscreen in the inside when AC is not turned on but it's raining outside at night.

Ice condensation on AC pipes is a given since the refrigerant coursing through them is at negative Celsius. That's why AC pipes must be insulated to preserve that cold to maintain efficient operation but more importantly, the condensation is contained within the insulation sleeve. After AC off, they are breeding ground for mould.
halcyon27
post Nov 8 2015, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(kimcil88 @ Nov 8 2015, 02:06 PM)
how to prevent the mould bro? It makes my room humid as the mould can weaken my other side wall to my bedroom wall like this.
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Hmm, this problem must be addressed first.

Your place condo our landed? Rented or your own? If bought your own, are you the first owner who bought from developer and is the first occupant or it was bought after market from previous owner who lived in or rented it out?

This case many possible causes but I list two.
A. Adjacent room is bathroom
Possibly a leak or moisture seepage from the next room where water is present like bathroom which had inadequate or not durable or shoddy waterproofing treatment allowing moisture to seep in.
B. AC condensation pipe burst inside wall and leaking out condensate.

I suggest opening another thread and we continue there. Leave the AC related topic here.

Generally, humidity in Malaysia or Singapore or anywhere like tropical climate like ours cannot avoid bro. Only certain things lessen the effect on occupant discomfort like marble floor or Venetian plaster wall (same constitution like marble) which absorbs moisture. Tiles whilst excellent in bathroom for repelling moisture hence will not absorb it. Thus for this reason, any homes that are tiles will have humidity related discomfort like sitting next to a rice cooker boiling rice. Only thing that lessens the effect is moving air or a dehumidifier or something that works like the second ie an aircond. In apartments, higher floors have better advantage if windy enough but so long as it is tiled, moisture is not removed unless AC is turned on.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 8 2015, 07:07 PM
halcyon27
post Nov 8 2015, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(kimcil88 @ Nov 8 2015, 11:27 PM)
landed house. new renovated house. I guess it is because the wall is not perfectly plastered. My worker just plastered and paint it at outside wall. By the way, I used the anti mould paint.
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It's already off topic. Suggest moving it out and we'll deal with it there.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 8 2015, 11:40 PM
halcyon27
post Nov 10 2015, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(jialitrading @ Nov 10 2015, 10:49 AM)
Bought Hitachi RAS-VX13CF 1.5HP Aircond RM2550 with extended warranty. Indoor 5 Years. Outdoor 10 Years.

Is this deal, ok?

Can this be fixed into old gas inverter piping?
Some says can... And some says cannot..

The installer says need to vacuum then can fix.
Really confused
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Old pipes also depends how old. I was told that those before 1995 mainly higher standard and quality before China pipes flood the market. Those probably can but better to replace if possible w 0.8mm thickness. If your know how old they are and are chancing on repurposing, it must be flushed before installing and charging with it new refrigerant. If not in hurry, request for a pressure leak test which normally takes two weeks to assess the pipe's integrity.

I've repurposed mine after verifying their integrity via pressure leak testing and used it with R410A because it's an old embedded pipe and it's not easily removed and relaid.
halcyon27
post Nov 22 2015, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(Jannah19 @ Nov 22 2015, 09:04 PM)
Top one uses new gas. Bottom one gas phased out. If your piping is new and changed for inverter type (R410A), top one is fit for purpose. Bottom one only if piping is existing and property is old. It uses the phased out R22.
halcyon27
post Nov 23 2015, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(Jannah19 @ Nov 23 2015, 10:10 AM)
This is my first time buying air cond. So my house don't have any piping yet. I try to googled out both but seems no info is really useful. But when i try to enlarge the upper photo, can see like inverter word on the aircond. But info given its not inverter. If based on money, i,d prefer for the bottom one of course, but both also between budget. Hehe. But I'm not heavy user of aircond. Maybe will use during night time for cooling only then switch off. Any further suggestion? Thanks smile.gif
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R22 phased out bro. Whatever remains in circulation surely high price as time passes on. Get R410A even if non inverter. Correctly installed, there should be no adding of gas for its lifetime. New piping should be 0.8mm thick copper. Later can pasang inverter when you see the need.

Alternatives are Mitsubishi Heavy Industries inverter 1hp which has 3D air flow even for 1Hp (not just up down but left right - features not commonly seen until 2HP). Not bad and durable and includes self cleaning. Not the same as Mitsubishi Electric.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 23 2015, 10:36 AM
halcyon27
post Nov 23 2015, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(Jannah19 @ Nov 23 2015, 02:26 PM)
Owwww ok thanks. ME is not as good as HI? Sorry keep on asking.
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I just stated that there's a distinction here that these are two different companies although having the same initial and parent holding entity. Hence MHI != ME.
halcyon27
post Nov 26 2015, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(kyle_kl @ Nov 26 2015, 10:19 AM)
Hi, i am looking for 1HP inverter aircond which is quiet and fast cooling (26-25C). Which brands/models are recommended? Thank you.
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Mitsubishi Electric or Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. If need indoor air quality try Toshiba Daiseikai or Sharp Plasmacluster.
halcyon27
post Nov 26 2015, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(vandechrome @ Nov 26 2015, 10:51 AM)
Sharing something here.

Installed a Panasonic 1.5HP Econavi Inverter.

Date installed : 31 Oct 2015
Days of usage: approx 13 Days (remaining days outstation)
Bill cycle: 16.10.2015 - 16.11.2015

AC operates from 8 pm to 3 am every night with temp range 24 - 25 degree Celsius. with the setting set at AUTO for everything and ECONAVI is turned ON.

[attachmentid=5373699]

My initial observation is the AC did not consumed so much of electricity if you are using the AC to regulate the temperature, not as a machine to cool down the temperature like your refrigerator.

My observation may not be so accurate since I've just installed it and did not run for full month. but looking at the average of my electricity bill.i could say that it is worth it.

Furthermore I also installed Alpha 18i water heater on the very same day with AC, and it is running twice a day in average.
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Thanks for sharing. Were you using another AC before? Try setting it at 26-27 auto with sleep mode and 2 speed fan and compare.

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