Oh thats good, ill check it out, its under TUYA’s OEM right? So long as its zigbee 3.0 and follows TUYA’s OEM standards, then i would be able to pair it with my zemismart hub

I’ve contacted the supplier.. unfortunately.. 4-gang zigbee switch requires neutral… i would need to loop the neutral from the nearest light fitting in that circuit.. but unfortunately no time to access ceiling to loop and draw the cable to the switch … seems like gotta put this on hold for a while..

I ended up using Smartrul on Wifi. Since I am using a "dedicated" wifi network just for home automation purposes (rather than throwing away the 3-mesh LG8245X6-10 gifted by Maxis Fibre). Laptops and smart-whatever are using separate wifi on 3-mesh M9 Plus for quality-assurance reason.

Smartrul because most almost everyone else are selling switches with decorated pattern on the buttons while I want empty one - just a halo ring so that I can have custom stickers to label right on top of the buttons.

I connected N to the 20A next to them. I shall not use transistors.
The 433MHz is wonderful!!!

Tomorrow's gonna continue with the rest. Some switches I might need to call electrician to pull N as they don't have 20A or 3-pin or pathway to either that I can pull myself.

(I use separate remote to either control the porch or to control living room.)

3-mesh LG8245X6-10? included as part of 500 Mbps subscription.

3-mesh M9 Plus? add-on purchase via Unifi Fibre of another home.

if buttons not responsive, it could be due to screwing the rear plate to tight until bent and thus got gap with the front plate. learnt it as i installed the first 2 - pictured before.

This is very interesting. i like how he shrink wrapped everything to insulate, and added the resister to act like fuse.

I think the homekit’s new architecture requires a hub for automation. Homekit hubs used to be used solely for remote control of your homekit accessories when you are away from the house. When you are home, and you turn off the hub (homepod or apple TV), your iphone actually can control the devices directly. However, the new architecture that was pulled in ios16.2 which is returning in ios16.4 will move all control to the homekit hubs, probably in preperation for matter.

If youre on ios 15, i think you can just use the xiaomi hub and the apple home app.

You just wont be able to control the devices remotely after you leave the house. Thats essentially how homekit functions. With an appletv/homepod, u can control the devices remotely. Not too sure about automations, which you asked in your post. Cos ive always had a hub (homepod), so cant test that out for you.

But, if your ipad is also on ios 15, maybe you can use it as a homehub (which in ios 16 has been removed from list of home hubs) and remotely control your devices. Your ipad just needs to be at home, powered up and connected to the internet.

unacceptable response.

Do not buy MOES UK Zigbee wall socket.
Whether on Shopee or through any other channel.
The vendor shirked responsibility that their product cannot work properly in Malaysian eco.
https://shp.ee/4hrx7y6

MOES UK Wifi wall socket works fine.
but its MOES UK Zigbee wall socket does not.

reason being,the Zigbee wall socket cannot tolerate voltage above 250V.
which according to Energy Commission, Malaysian supply can go as high as 253V tolerance.

vendor solution workaround:
customer is to reduce Voltage from mains to make the socket functional.

I am not well-versed with opening up the housing and tinkering with PCB components, and definitely not when it's AC. So no go there.

Branching options:
- have this connected to other smart home solutions, and see if it can apply custom firmware or adjust variable there.
- spend more to buy AVR that can step-down voltage, and have this connected to that with or without UPS.

But stupid lah.
this is meant to be wall socket, for god's sake....
it cannot work with mains voltage - solution is to modify mains to make the device again.
he thinks our residential mains voltage is something that can be adjusted just because he fancies it, is it...

I'll see if it's possible to pry open 1 zigbee later.
RM70 * 9 😭

I also have 4 other wifi-based MOES UK wall socket that got fried by don't know what. But these 4 are oddly enough all fried after I replace them one after another to a socket that a contractor made for me at my porch. The cabling no issue when checked with socket tester. So no lost for me to break apart one of these 4.
RM65 * 4 😭

I have automation to simultaneously (1) zigbee AA battery-powered tap controller to fill water into a container and (2) run a ~60W submerged (aquarium) pump to drown Home Minister's collection of potted plants through a spiderweb of 4/7mm tube.

The pump is never dry. I have the tap controller coupled with a (3) zigbee leak sensor (to act as forced cut-off) placed slightly above a mechanical valve in order to make sure i don't overfill the container for the week-long i am not home.

I don't think it is capable of causing the socket to fry. More so when 2 of the sockets fried without even having any load; just happen to sit OFF on the same 2-gang.

heyy.. that's mine..   

i think it is possible to transplant what are possibly the Wifi board and the Zigbee board, but, i don't have confidence with my own (un)soldering skill.
Not sure if it is possible for me to take this to an electrical repair shop and have them do it for me.

Wow, very unlucky indeed. I am actually considering to purchase some of these zigbee wall sockets to increase my zigbee mesh. BUt not looking at MOES products at the moment. Eyeing the Smatrul universal zigbee wall outlet at the moment, quite cheap at RM5X.XX. Once i do buy it, hope it doesnt fry like yours. Fingers crossed.

Yup similar to that, but the one you linked is a wifi model. The zigbee one looks the same, smartrul brand. No, i tried to look for a usb C outlet one, but doesnt seem to be available yet. I tried in Aliexpress, Taobao and even expo.tuya. Nothing released yet.

Those other non-MOES sockets; check their amperage rating.

The one @alucard89 referred to, I think only maxed at 10A.
So it can be unpredictable since our 3-pin plugs are 13A; you might mindlessly insert 13A device into such 10A socket.

16A amperage is one of the reason I went with MOES socket, apart from (now shattered) trust in the brand name.

actually you can. I did ask for a quotation before (some need a min quantity), but then i gave up, cos i wanted my item quick, and i think they’re prolly gonna ship slow.. and tracking could be an issue