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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Zot
post Aug 24 2020, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(Kiding @ Aug 24 2020, 01:03 PM)
Battery powered lock can last at least 6 months, if door is not frequently opened, it will last 1 year or more.

I have samsung fingerprint door lock, the battery can last 18 months. it is 4 x AA battery.
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That long? I guess if the lock is smooth, but after some time the the door bolt can experience some resistance due to sagging. Thus this may use more power and shortened the battery life, I think.

Been considering Samsung also but not sure it is just remove and replace on my current door lock. biggrin.gif

How long have you been using the Samsung? Read about problem in its touch sensitivity degradation.
Zot
post Aug 26 2020, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(Catt_mer @ Aug 26 2020, 03:29 PM)
Thks! I'm just worried that China digital lock not that secure. Are they secure? And if suddenly use halfway and spoil, all I have to do is call the installer and they can see if need fixing right?
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Then need to buy another one for standby biggrin.gif . No way installer can fix it. They won;t bother to try either.
Zot
post Aug 26 2020, 09:29 PM

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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Aug 26 2020, 09:00 PM)
Make sure the lock hv redundancy built in, eg can use a 9v battery in case the battery fails, or use a physical key etc.
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I think the worry is on mechanical failure and cannot lock the door biggrin.gif
Zot
post Aug 27 2020, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(TheLegend27 @ Aug 27 2020, 09:22 AM)
if u want secure, go search for the lockset that review by jerryrigeverything. very comprehensive review and stress test on the lockset.
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In most house breaking case in Malaysia, door is not the main entrance laugh.gif

In terrace house, you just need to slide the roof tile. Spare key is in drawer in hall whistling.gif
Zot
post Sep 2 2020, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 2 2020, 02:27 PM)
Only issue I can think of is when turning the fan regulator (speed), the light will flicker a bit but other than that, no issues.
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Your regulator is resistive or capacitive type?
Zot
post Sep 2 2020, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 2 2020, 03:53 PM)
Not sure, capacitive type kua because put capacitor there the fan speed drop then move the cap becomes OK
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The traditional one is ugly bulky type (box). Capacitor type usually flushed and fit directly on the wall switch mounting.

Anyway, both using concept of reducing voltage, except the resistor type produce heat and energy wasting. Capacitor type runs cool but change voltage by using combination of different capacitor values.

I think the blinking is related to reduced voltage. Most likely will affect either one.
Zot
post Sep 5 2020, 09:05 PM

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I remember last time someone is looking for 2 way switch solution.

I found a device that can turn your existing 2 way switch into WiFi with no need to N wire

https://shopee.com.my/eWeLink-Wifi-Wireless...7179.5750374643
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(micgil @ Sep 8 2020, 02:58 PM)
Hello..Anyone knows if it's possible to change this aircond switch to those smart switch?

Any recommended system to use if I want to explore changing my wall switch for the fan (old fan) and light (fluorescent) in the room. Quite like the Xiaomi Aqara but the plug point seems to be an issue for certain items like the gateway hub/smart plug/ etc as I'll need to get a converter.

user posted image
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This looks like old 1hp aircond installation, right? Nowadays 1hp do not use starter like this anymore.

That Red and Green button is actually just simple switch to trigger the magnetic contactor inside the box. It is just momentary switch.

What is your air-cond horse power actually? How old is your air-cond?
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(micgil @ Sep 8 2020, 03:20 PM)
I have changed my aircond before. This starter was for a much older aircond. The current one also probably has been about near 10 years I think and if not mistaken it's 1.5hp
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Those who use smart switch for auto-gate can advise since it use momentary contact. Normal switch will just either on or off only. This can be done to simulate pressing that Green and Red button.
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 8 2020, 03:37 PM)

Those smart switch for Autogate normally use 10A relay. Don't think can use for aircon unless got higher amperage?
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Why not since it is just used to switch on contactor switch. The actual load is on contactor, not on the push Green and Red switch, right?
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Sep 8 2020, 04:26 PM)
Ya bro, on the back it does say 20a printed on the plastic casing, reason I ask is bec there were 2 online sellers who told me there were some with lower amp, cant remember was it 10a or 16a, looked the same but slightly cheaper, just wanted to confirm and also make sure those who buy are aware. I have installed both Ewelink and Tuya, difference is Tuya can set off delay, as in wait for AC to completely shut down before the 20a switch shut off so I can use GA to switch on and off both via routines.
This is what I see at the back, thought there would be some resistor or something with 20a. Anyway doesnt matter. Thanks.

[attachmentid=10578794]
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Wow, I did not see anything that handle 20A here laugh.gif

Just a single piece PCBA with front and the back just like that? hmm.gif

Looks like they put extra solder there for higher current.
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 10:13 PM

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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Sep 8 2020, 09:52 PM)
Didnt realise can remove the 2nd PCBA until you mentioned the screws, I can see it now  icon_rolleyes.gif

[attachmentid=10579046]
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Yes, this is what I meant. How to handle 20A or even 2A with no power component or heatsink. The 20A current is handled by that relay. On the other side the lead that carry the high current is made thick by adding more solder. That is why you hear ticking sound when switching switch biggrin.gif
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 10:56 PM

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QUOTE(adamw @ Sep 8 2020, 08:37 PM)
How many HP is this aircond? If below 2, can use real 16A-20A smart switch. Get the magnetic relay type so you can check it's relay rating to be very sure.
Smart switch

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The guy mentioned that the air-cond is 1.5HP.

Nowadays small air-cond like 2HP and below has build-in starter DOL (Direct On Line) type. However, based on people experience you can use that 20A switch for 1.5HP and below. If use on 2HP, usually the switch cannot last long. contact point burnt and poor contact will heat switch and cut its life. Although the normal working current is low, the starting surge current can be many times higher.

In this case I guess he can just remove the starter and go direct with heater 20A switch.
Zot
post Sep 8 2020, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(adamw @ Sep 8 2020, 10:43 PM)
For aircond is better to get the one that cut off the neutral as well.
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It is different person who is asking about the switch for air-cond.
Zot
post Sep 9 2020, 08:36 AM

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QUOTE(micgil @ Sep 8 2020, 03:20 PM)
I have changed my aircond before. This starter was for a much older aircond. The current one also probably has been about near 10 years I think and if not mistaken it's 1.5hp
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Since it is a 1.5HP air-cond, it is possible to replace with a 20A smart switch, like the one used for heater.
Zot
post Sep 9 2020, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(adamw @ Sep 9 2020, 02:33 PM)
Is there any benefit from using 16A Smart Power Strip compare to 10A because the plugtop is still 13A UK 3 pin. Unless I change the Plugtop to UK 3 pin round I don't see any benefits, right?
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The 16A power strip is there because many European country has 16A socket. The pin is round one, but if you change to 13A British standard 3-pin, then it become 13A power strip biggrin.gif

If you run load at 13A, probably wire runs a bit cooler laugh.gif
Zot
post Sep 10 2020, 09:38 AM

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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Sep 10 2020, 09:29 AM)
What's IHC?
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Intelligent Home Center .... right?
Zot
post Sep 14 2020, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(TongCN @ Sep 14 2020, 09:46 AM)
Just received Smart Light switch but then now having issue cause my old light  switch panel full of live wire >.<

Using test pen and checked, so many live @__@
I wonder cause all are connected?

[attachmentid=10586441]

I wonder the green and black behind is neutral wire or not sad.gif
Cause it doesnt connect to the current switch panel.
Only from top till down from the pipe in the wall.

[attachmentid=10586442]
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All wires that are looping among switches are the L wire. Each of those wires from the switch into the wall/conduit goes to the light point whichever it is controlling. smile.gif

For switches without N, the N wires are looping on ceiling and the L wires are looping at switch level usually.

This post has been edited by Zot: Sep 14 2020, 10:11 AM
Zot
post Sep 14 2020, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(TongCN @ Sep 14 2020, 10:14 AM)
Yea, i guess those are looping live wire from Main Live, right ?

And i just need to find those actual light switch for L1, L2, L3, L4 (which wont trigger test pen) ?

I actually saw the green and black wire behind as per picture 2.
Can i pull one out for neutral actually ? (Or i shouldnt touch)
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Green wire of course Earth (normally). NO need to use unless you have metal switch plate I guess laugh.gif

The Black one is possible that the contractor provide the N there. That's good. I guess you can try if bulb light up when you connect with one of the L wire.

As for test pen, you need to know that several lighting points share the same MCB (usually the 6A). TNB suggest having 6 light points share one 6A MCB. Therefore, if one of the switch is ON, your test pen will light up on both L and N sides of the wires that share in the same loop. So, be careful with this fact.
Zot
post Sep 14 2020, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(TongCN @ Sep 14 2020, 10:54 AM)
Yea, there's one thick black behind actually.
But i think i need to consult some electrician probably.
Jangan main main later cut wrong and pull wrong  sweat.gif

Hmm, but yesterday when i am testing, all switch are actually OFF.
That's why confusing me why certain point still has live light.

Man, old switch panel kinda messy i guess..
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In a way, all same color is not wrong. Look at the diagram below:

Attached Image

From Phase (or L), the Red wire is looping to each switch. After the switches, each Red wire goes to a bulb. These Red wires (between the switches and the bulbs) is not really L or N, right? laugh.gif Well, in your case, this is the reasons all the wires are Red.

If one of the switch is ON (say Light 1), the test pen you touch on N wire at Light 2 and Light 3 socket will light up since the N is looping to Light 1 as well.

Well, get as electrician if you are not familiar with house electrical wiring.

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