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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Zot
post Sep 9 2022, 09:20 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 8 2022, 10:46 PM)
Zigbee/Wifi water heater switch 20A and 30A must use neutral wire? cannot use capacitor?
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Well, the heater power switch for any home comes with N already what. Standard smile.gif
Zot
post Sep 9 2022, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 9 2022, 10:01 AM)
Not at the switch side..... arrrghhh why didn't i know of these switches BEFORE renovate....
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If you tell contractor where you want to out switch for water heater during renovation, automatically that switch location will be meant for 20A DPST with N available. The smart switch for 20A usually require the N.

I'm not sure if I really understood what your worry about.
Zot
post Sep 12 2022, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(vacuos @ Sep 11 2022, 01:18 AM)
Dear all sifu, I just installed a smart switch without neutral. I was wondering what if I removed the light bulb that is parallel to the capacitor like picture below but leave the capacitor connected. Will it cause a short circuit with AC voltage thru the capacitor - overheating the circuit?

user posted image
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The value of capacitor provides reactance value that will determine how much current flows to the switch when the smart switch in OFF condition. Reactance is like an AC counterpart of DC resistance which is also measured in ohm.

Given the AC frequency of 50Hz and say 0.1µF of capacitor value, the reactance is about 32kΩ. Therefore the current that flows in OFF state is only about 7.8mA which is used to power the smart switch in standby mode.
Zot
post Sep 14 2022, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 14 2022, 01:41 PM)
Guys, this sort of multi-gang wall switches (max 10A).
I'm looking at 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang, 4 gang, probably 6 gang as well.

Assuming I will be able to pull neutral to the switch.
Are they able to handle 1 ceiling fan as well? say, on L1 or L2?

user posted image
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Ceiling fan is low power device. Mostly around 50~70W only for old model. New one with DC motor even less than 40W.
Zot
post Sep 14 2022, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 14 2022, 02:58 PM)
You know how it is usually craped inside wall.
How's the inside behind the switch? Still can fit with all the wires? Or will I need those bracket thing to lift up and make room?
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Some hole deep and some too shallow.

Yes, when I put additional sockets it became too cramped. I had one that I dug a bit deeper to recess mounting bracket deeper inside just to make room laugh.gif
Zot
post Sep 22 2022, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 22 2022, 01:48 PM)
Most of the smart socket (wall-side) have 13A squarish pinholes. I only see 1 that offer 16A wall socket , but it is still squarish pinholes.

While plug-side, for 13A is squarish pins, and for 15A is roundish pins.

Can I just replace the 13A fuse inside those 13A plugs with 15A fuse? So that I can use those 16A wall socket with squarish pinholes with modded 15A squarish pin plugs

for aircond.
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It is not about the shape but the square pin is rated at 13A because it is the amperage that it is designed to handle. So, if you use higher load, the plug top will get hot and possible get that burnt smell and perhaps damage the socket and plug over time.

Note that the round 15A plug has bigger pin too I believe.
Zot
post Sep 22 2022, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 22 2022, 02:23 PM)
Yes, the roundish pin is larger than the squarish pin.

I see. So it's not a rating applied because of the fuse it contains.
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The fuse is for safety purpose, not to rate the plug. It is the standard that require the fuse to be there. Last time the UK also use round pin but later changed. Actually the square one has more contact space and gives lower contact resistance according to what I read.
Zot
post Sep 30 2022, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(Max @ Sep 30 2022, 09:52 AM)
cant see full picture where the wires go..
most probably power supply and charging board.
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Obviously it is just what you thought it was
Zot
post Oct 27 2022, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Oct 27 2022, 01:34 AM)
for my own safety precaution and to calm anxiety, what is "loop" in the current context?
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For lighting points, normally 6 lighting points (if not mistaken) will share 1 MCB (mini circuit breaker) of 6A. One single N wire is looping to all these points and return to the DB. The 20A switch will have its own N wire going back to the DB. This is because it is meant to carry the 20A load back to DB from L wire.

Even though it is a single phase wiring where the N is common throughout the house, the N wire to devices are separated throughout the house because of the current load wires have to bear. So, when you loop the N from the switch to the 20A switch, it will work for single phase usually, but now the load from smart switch will now share the load of the 20A switch.

If I understood the smart switch with N requirement right, the N will just carry very small current just to power the smart switch, not the load from light points because they have their own N at the ceiling. Therefore, I think this will not be a problem. No, it will not cause any damage to house wiring anyway. The 20A MCB still protect the wiring of the 20A switch.

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