QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 8 2022, 10:46 PM)
Well, the heater power switch for any home comes with N already what. Standard Smart Home, Let's discuss
Smart Home, Let's discuss
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Sep 9 2022, 09:20 AM
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#901
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Sep 9 2022, 10:09 AM
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#902
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 9 2022, 10:01 AM) If you tell contractor where you want to out switch for water heater during renovation, automatically that switch location will be meant for 20A DPST with N available. The smart switch for 20A usually require the N.I'm not sure if I really understood what your worry about. |
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Sep 12 2022, 09:17 AM
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#903
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QUOTE(vacuos @ Sep 11 2022, 01:18 AM) Dear all sifu, I just installed a smart switch without neutral. I was wondering what if I removed the light bulb that is parallel to the capacitor like picture below but leave the capacitor connected. Will it cause a short circuit with AC voltage thru the capacitor - overheating the circuit? The value of capacitor provides reactance value that will determine how much current flows to the switch when the smart switch in OFF condition. Reactance is like an AC counterpart of DC resistance which is also measured in ohm.![]() Given the AC frequency of 50Hz and say 0.1µF of capacitor value, the reactance is about 32kΩ. Therefore the current that flows in OFF state is only about 7.8mA which is used to power the smart switch in standby mode. |
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Sep 14 2022, 02:29 PM
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#904
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 14 2022, 01:41 PM) Guys, this sort of multi-gang wall switches (max 10A). Ceiling fan is low power device. Mostly around 50~70W only for old model. New one with DC motor even less than 40W.I'm looking at 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang, 4 gang, probably 6 gang as well. Assuming I will be able to pull neutral to the switch. Are they able to handle 1 ceiling fan as well? say, on L1 or L2? ![]() |
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Sep 14 2022, 03:23 PM
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#905
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 14 2022, 02:58 PM) You know how it is usually craped inside wall. Some hole deep and some too shallow.How's the inside behind the switch? Still can fit with all the wires? Or will I need those bracket thing to lift up and make room? Yes, when I put additional sockets it became too cramped. I had one that I dug a bit deeper to recess mounting bracket deeper inside just to make room |
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Sep 22 2022, 02:13 PM
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#906
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 22 2022, 01:48 PM) Most of the smart socket (wall-side) have 13A squarish pinholes. I only see 1 that offer 16A wall socket , but it is still squarish pinholes. It is not about the shape but the square pin is rated at 13A because it is the amperage that it is designed to handle. So, if you use higher load, the plug top will get hot and possible get that burnt smell and perhaps damage the socket and plug over time.While plug-side, for 13A is squarish pins, and for 15A is roundish pins. Can I just replace the 13A fuse inside those 13A plugs with 15A fuse? So that I can use those 16A wall socket with squarish pinholes with modded 15A squarish pin plugs for aircond. Note that the round 15A plug has bigger pin too I believe. |
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Sep 22 2022, 02:29 PM
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#907
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 22 2022, 02:23 PM) Yes, the roundish pin is larger than the squarish pin. The fuse is for safety purpose, not to rate the plug. It is the standard that require the fuse to be there. Last time the UK also use round pin but later changed. Actually the square one has more contact space and gives lower contact resistance according to what I read.I see. So it's not a rating applied because of the fuse it contains. |
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Sep 30 2022, 09:55 AM
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#908
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Oct 27 2022, 08:26 AM
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#909
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Oct 27 2022, 01:34 AM) For lighting points, normally 6 lighting points (if not mistaken) will share 1 MCB (mini circuit breaker) of 6A. One single N wire is looping to all these points and return to the DB. The 20A switch will have its own N wire going back to the DB. This is because it is meant to carry the 20A load back to DB from L wire.Even though it is a single phase wiring where the N is common throughout the house, the N wire to devices are separated throughout the house because of the current load wires have to bear. So, when you loop the N from the switch to the 20A switch, it will work for single phase usually, but now the load from smart switch will now share the load of the 20A switch. If I understood the smart switch with N requirement right, the N will just carry very small current just to power the smart switch, not the load from light points because they have their own N at the ceiling. Therefore, I think this will not be a problem. No, it will not cause any damage to house wiring anyway. The 20A MCB still protect the wiring of the 20A switch. |
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