Sorry, what does that mean?

I might not answer your question directly but this was my concern for my house, it's too big of a single-point-of-failure to rely on a cheapo smart switch and to crack my head around the wiring.

Hence I move the 'smart' part to the end devices instead of the switch. In my bedroom I installed 6 Wiz smart downlights, if 1 of them kaput I can still turn on the rest while replacing the faulty one. With 6 individual lights I can also group them for zoning etc. Most of the time I only turn on 2 out of 6.

For ceiling fan, most modern ceiling fans use 433MHz RF so I can just adjust on/off/speed using a broadlink RF smart remote (I use the RM4 pro). Same goes to my AC remote (IR instead of RF).

It's a bit more tedious to configure all at first but to me it's worth it. Even better if you setup home assistant, centralizing all the controls across different brands/protocols.

Two more of my MOES Zigbee smart switch kaput after just 3 years of use (failed just shy of 4 months of each other). This time it was installed at a different house. I guess no more MOES switch for me. Any suggestion on safer SIRIM/St approved Zigbee smart switch?

Aqara! still working fine after 7 years

I got some moes switch, but different pcb design of course than this one. Still working fine till now
But even my other tuya switches, never to this extend damaged (normally some faulty capacitor needs replacement)

5 out of my 8 switch modules kaput. Majority due to caps blown. But this time around not sure why. Looks like trace burnt out

Here the link for Three phases

Here the link for Single Phases


For the SPD, there are many to choose from online store.

The burn mark is not due to product quality issues but external factor such as lightning strike in your area. Installing SPD will protect your electronic gadgets. The purpose of SPD is to trim the incoming excessive voltage spike not more than ~275Vac.

Do you know if Rezo fan also using 433MHz?

i notice each of the fan pair to individual control, can't cross use even same model

This post has been edited by angelgemini: Sep 24 2025, 11:19 PM

I don't know for sure because I only use Alpha fans, and yeah each unit has different RF codes even though the models are the same.

But most likely they all use 433MHz. On alpha fan remote it mentions specifically 433.9 MHz.

i replaced yeelight for tapo L535E multi color light bulb.

it was an improvement because

1. integrate to the wifi network is MUCH MUCH more reliable. Whereas yeelight it was buggy as hell and worked less than half the time.

2. tapo had stats for power usage, whereas yeelight didn't.

3. tapo supports matters platform. i didn't test it because the default tapo app worked fine for me. But if you want to use with matter platform/devices e.g. samsung, you can if you want to.



price wise it was about rm50. for an older model on sale it was around rm35 or something. But the thing is, the life for the older model (L530E) is far less than the newer one, so i didn't mind paying a bit extra (not to mention it can also go much brighter).


so what can be done with the new smart light bulb?

scheduling. So you can auto turn on and off. And when you are away from home, there is a toggle to off the lights.

you can also adjust the lighting brightness to dim or have higher brightness.

There is even a setting to set brightness to auto which matches with the outdoor brightness throughout the day.

Also rather than just sudden on/off, there is a fade on/off which supposedly reduces eye strain when transitioning between on/off state.

there are themes if you want to do disco or whatever (i don't particularly use or care about that, but it's there).



I've been using smart led light bulbs for few years now, i can totally recommend it to others. Rather than playing around with physical switches, just use your smartphone to control it. Better, it has automation which makes life more convenient. We already know that led lighting uses little power, so maybe the power consumption stats is not needed, but still, it's nice to have.

I noted that the yeelight was slightly more bigger than the tapo, also it was far more heavier than the tapo (not sure why though). Lighting performance i felt the tapo was fine for me. One thing i will give yeelight, i do think it can dim much lower than the tapo. That said, i think the lowest dim for tapo was sufficiently low for me. Overall i don't feel yeelight is worth it mostly due to how unreliable it's software is. The only thing good about yeelight was it's lighting performance, but everything else sucked.


https://www.reddit.com/r/TpLink/comments/1g...l535e_vs_l530e/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Tapo/comments/1jh3..._is_too_bright/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Tapo/comments/1l20...ht_bulb_owners/





This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Oct 7 2025, 05:22 AM

anyone using slim smart track light?

Hi, looking for advice as I am new to these smart home stuffs. currently renovating the house.
I found some smart switch in Shopee. some mentioned required neutral and some is no-neutral.

for no-neutral the diagram shows I need a capacitor and neutral i need a neutral wire.

what is the difference and which is more recommended?

someone said new one no need neutral.
basically smart switch need power to powered up, the capacitor just leak small amount of current just enough to power the device.

if u opt to go with capacitor, u must remember where you hide it, next time when it burned u will need to know where to find and replace it.

neutral switch able to provide more power to the switch especially wifi only and more stable. if u renovating, it is better get the neutral cable in one shot.
.....

next. the same advice i give to all new owner, stick with single brand and ecosystem. just to make your life easier. dont try to be smart mix and match.

easy route. android use tuya. apple+android use aqara.
expert use home assistant.

btw i use sonoff, high quality and got 433MHz for remote.
NOT RECOMMENDED unless you know how to flash to esphome or tasmota.

final one, learn wifi, bluetooth, zigbee, thread or matter... this thing u will need to learn

wow i just use chatgpt to fact check my reply above.
it give better overall view.
you should be able to learn more there.

just to add 1 more. tuya have too many manufacturers, some offered good quality and others really bad. u will need to check the brand with other forumer here.
if got extra pocket money, go for aqara... less headaches

Make sure every group of switches at least 1 has 2 poles. You can share the neutral. This is the only way to make it work at lowest cost.

Did you check with your electrician about the cost of running a neutral wire to a standalone switch box, or to a group of adjacent switch boxes that could share a common neutral wire?

Alternatively, you can consider newer-generation smart switches that work without a neutral wire or bypass capacitor.

Zigbee (No Neutral, No Capacitor):
MOGI Zigbee Smart Switch – 1/2/3 Gang, 20A/40A, Tuya Smart Life, Alexa, Google, Siri

Wi-Fi (No Neutral, No Hub Needed):
MOGI Wi-Fi Smart Switch – 1/2/3 Gang, 20A/40A, Tuya Smart Life, Alexa, Google, Siri

If you prefer touch-type smart switches, each panel can have up to 4 gangs (control up to 4 devices).
For mechanical type switches, the maximum is 3 gangs per panel.

i believe the no neutral no capacitor working concepts, it still use capacitor internally as mini battery.

also in one of the moes switch, it listed this switch cannot be use on DC fans and no one comment on light flicker issue yet

I was wondering why it wouldn’t work with a DC ceiling fan. If that’s the case, then shouldn’t the same issue apply to LED lighting as well, since most modern appliances use switching power supplies to drive their loads?

i think this issue mainly happened to low power smart switch, such as zigbee.
may be using weaker magnet... not strong enough to flip the relay.

I’d like to share a remediation method that has consistently helped me fix Wi-Fi–operated IoT devices showing the following symptoms:

Symptoms:
1. You cannot control the device from the smart app, even after rebooting, resetting, or replacing the battery.
2. The smart app can discover the device within range, but it refuses to pair with your account.

Fix / Remediation Steps:
1. Set up a simple temporary Wi-Fi access point with a basic SSID and password (for example, SSID: “1”, password: “11111111”).
2. Try pairing the problematic IoT device with your smart app account via this temporary Wi-Fi network. Usually, it connects within one or two attempts.
3. Once paired, reset the device again and attempt to pair it back to your main Wi-Fi network. It should now connect within one or two tries.
4. After everything works, remove the temporary Wi-Fi access point.

Although the exact cause is unclear, router logs indicate the device is refusing the handshake with the main Wi-Fi router.

These steps have successfully revived four of my own “faulty” IoT devices over the last two years (three battery-operated and one AC-powered).