Sep 23 2025, 02:08 PM
QUOTE(C_ST @ Sep 22 2025, 10:05 AM)
Sorry if is repeated question, tried scrolling this thread + search function, can't find any related answer.
N years ago, my eletrictian asked me to get a no-neutral smart switch, so, bought a no-neutral wifi + rf433mhz 3 gang switch, installed with a capacitor on my first lamp, follow by another lamp and ac fan.
Recently the switch start to be not responding, probably due to wear & tear, thus, finding back a similar smart switch. I prefer the kind with 'press' function, not the touch screen type.
But nowadays, the 'press' type in the market thats come with Wifi + Rf433mhz are all 'Need Neutral', can't find any is no neutral.
So my humble noobie question
1. If there is a fan, does it means it actually have a neutral wire inside?
2. Or, if I die die install a Neutral require switch, what scenario will happen?
I might not answer your question directly but this was my concern for my house, it's too big of a single-point-of-failure to rely on a cheapo smart switch and to crack my head around the wiring.N years ago, my eletrictian asked me to get a no-neutral smart switch, so, bought a no-neutral wifi + rf433mhz 3 gang switch, installed with a capacitor on my first lamp, follow by another lamp and ac fan.
Recently the switch start to be not responding, probably due to wear & tear, thus, finding back a similar smart switch. I prefer the kind with 'press' function, not the touch screen type.
But nowadays, the 'press' type in the market thats come with Wifi + Rf433mhz are all 'Need Neutral', can't find any is no neutral.
So my humble noobie question
1. If there is a fan, does it means it actually have a neutral wire inside?
2. Or, if I die die install a Neutral require switch, what scenario will happen?
Hence I move the 'smart' part to the end devices instead of the switch. In my bedroom I installed 6 Wiz smart downlights, if 1 of them kaput I can still turn on the rest while replacing the faulty one. With 6 individual lights I can also group them for zoning etc. Most of the time I only turn on 2 out of 6.
For ceiling fan, most modern ceiling fans use 433MHz RF so I can just adjust on/off/speed using a broadlink RF smart remote (I use the RM4 pro). Same goes to my AC remote (IR instead of RF).
It's a bit more tedious to configure all at first but to me it's worth it. Even better if you setup home assistant, centralizing all the controls across different brands/protocols.
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