Budget wise, this one with tuya homekit hub and use homekit controller
Since you can’t pair with z2m or zha

Capacitor installed on 1st gang/fan?

if not mistaken, without neutral, you should install LED (not CFL)  light on 1st switch, with capacitor bypass. Fan cannot be first.

and make sure your capacitor connect to Live before in enters device, and connect to Neutral after device. The Neutral is expected to be alive yaaa, not disconnected.

if flickers, that means there is residual energy (from the smart switch operating itself) still reaching your 1st device. no other reason and you have to t/shoot around this. the flickering is because that energy need to be expended by the device itself as it have no way to dissipate it otherwise.

that's why you either
• have the switch direct into Neutral, or
• have a capacitor collect before it reaches device, and then release it off by skipping the device.

you use capacitor, right? replace your capacitor on 1st' path. it might be a dud or already faulty.

if you have Neutral connected direct to the switch, check back that Neutral's path really connected all the way back to MCB.

edit:
looking at the vid, maybe it has something to do with you having a fan with that type of speed control. as the energy on 2nd is "disturbed" "slower"/"faster" as you change speed, un..controlled excess goes out via 1st, and more than what capacitor can absorb in short time, so most of the excess reaches your 1st device.

he is using old school fans, i long time didnt see those fan speed adjuster.

on another note, his fan Amp might exceeded the switch or capacitor capacity.

all switch, regardless number of gangs, have a "hidden" user.

A switch with it's own N connector behind


A switch that does not have dedicated N connector behind, will share L1 with sw1's. In this case you need to have capacitor for L1 to bypass device straight to N.


i suspect the fan changing speed affected the logic board, thus excess leak to the shared L1

1 year since moved in to my house, which is running full stock Tuya setup on Smart Life app connected to Google Home. Happy to report all components are still working fine so far.

1 x 4" smart panel with Zigbee hub
14 x Zigbee smart switches (by Moes)
3 x smart curtains (on wifi)
1x smart lock (on wifi)
1x CCTV (on wifi)

Only few things I'm not really happy about -

i) The smart lock doesn't record any exit events, only entry. So if you want to do some exit automation like switch off all the lights etc you have to figure out a workaround instead of relying on the lock. I just setup a tap-to-run automation and assign it as shortcut on the 4" panel. Or I just use Google Assistant.

ii) The CCTV doesn't reconnect to wifi if its disconnected from it. Lets say your wifi have issues or you just restarted your router, even if its up later the CCTV will remain disconnected. Have to force reboot it only will reconnect, and there's no way to reboot from the app

iii) Just realised this recently but I should've bought a standalone Zigbee hub instead of relying on the smart panel. If anything goes wrong its easier to replace compared to the smart panel. But so far still working fine... touch wood

That's all that I could think about. Haven't really dwell any deeper into the functionalities other than basic ones like scheduled turn on/off. Recently just added a temperature + humidity sensor and a scene switch. Thinking off getting some presence sensors to play around next maybe.

I think your problem is not with the smart switch but with the AC (Alternative Current) noise from your inductive load.

You either change the LED light to one with better handling of EMI or install EMI filter.

Like this, which is more effective but may post a challenge to you. 

Other option will be Ferrite core like this one .

It will suppress any AC noise to certain degree.

If you're noticing that the LED light flickers when it's turned off and your wall smart switch uses a solid-state relay instead of a mechanical one, I suspect that the solid-state relay's optocoupler is sensitive to the incoming AC noise. To reduce this noise, you could try replacing the electrolytic capacitor on the secondary side with a solid-state capacitor , which offers better ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) and improved noise suppression.

i might just encounter my first smart switch issue.... actually not sure is it the smart switch, wiring or the light itself

I have a downlight at my balcony controlled by a single gang zigbee smart switch, been using fine for 1 year+. today when I try to off it, the switch shows off (LED indicator is off and in app status is off as well) but the light continues to be on and its flickering slightly. What's the problem? I suspect it might not be the switch since it seems to still have control and the status are all correct?

Looks like the switches using transistor/mosfet for switching load.
Do u happen to wired it for ceiling fan?

I just had another incident with 3 of my smart switches. One 2 gang and the other were 3 gangs switches. MOES Zigbee smart switch.
1. The 2 gang gave out a black smoke and both devices are in OFF state upon failure
2. The 3 gangs both have blown caps and devices that are being controlled remained in ON state after despite blue LED is off (live in leaked into live out)







Now comes the question, is there any sirim certified smart switch available? If we purchase house insurance, will they check the switches we use (sirim/ce certified...)?

Aqara! still working fine after 7 years

I got some moes switch, but different pcb design of course than this one. Still working fine till now
But even my other tuya switches, never to this extend damaged (normally some faulty capacitor needs replacement)