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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!

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SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 12:59 PM)
i mean in term of the color, if he mean painted as in the entire gunpla been painted, he only apply white to the white parts and blue to the blue excluding the extra silver chrome on the booster and weapons (no weathering and shading) but again as avocado suggest it might not be necessary to go thru so much hassle just to remove white spot from the nubsmark.

let say u panel line the hg unicorn it will probably looks abt the same as this but with white spot here and there sad.gif
user posted image
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does that white look like original runner white? i don't think original runner white is that white. people usually paint to suite their color taste, might be same black but might be a darker black or something, til now i still don't know the difference between White & Off White.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:04 PM)
got it, another question, base on the guide on the manual, they give u the color which compliment to each runner, but how do i know which to use to have the closest matching colors.  And which brand is recommended?  Tamiya & Mr Hobby is the only two i know of  ohmy.gif
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The color code on Bandai manuals usually refer to Mr.Hobby Paint codes, but, the mixture of the paint is not based on the runner but "ideal color" set by designers, it's just a guide, you need to use your color tray & mix urself & test on white paper or runners to see if the color matches or not. also the water/thinner mixture will effect the color, so use own judgment.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:10 PM)
Ok lets say if i want to achieve something similar to this, having the color appear to be at least 90% identical to the runners color and do it by spray would it be smooth like the sample above?  Is priming still necessary since i only apply about the same color tone to the surface?  (saw that danny choo blog where he spray a layer of paint directly to the runner before he even cut them and assemble it but isn't that exactly the same problem with ppl who end up with nubmarks here and there sweat.gif )

Actually to make it simple, i just want to paint the gunpla in their respective color (or identical) to hide marks, stratches and perhaps making the color more distinctive and sharper and wonder if it's achievable via spray can laugh.gif
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if you use spray can you need to spray the whole surface if not you will see uneven areas, and you need to prime the areas before spraying, it's possible to spray without prime, but the paint won't stick as well compare to primed, or you can do light mist coat 1st to create a rough surface, then wetter coat to make the paint stick.

for touching up nub marks, people use brush or marker pen.

if you are lazy, you can cut out most obvious marks & sand then, leave the parts on tree with just 1 nub, then spray the whole tray, but result might be some areas too thick some too thin so you have to be really careful compare to spraying parts by parts, but it saves lots of time.

i posted 3 SD kits before, 1 is fully handpainted, result is lots of brush marks & uneven surface, 1 is touch up unpainted parts & Future Floor top gloss it, 1 is touch up unpainted parts & weathering/rust using gundam panel line marker & use Mr.DIY clear coat. All done without primer, it's harder to use brush on unprimed surface, paint tends to get swiped around by the brush.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:17 PM)
this is exactly what i need!  ok i guess i need to get more sanding tools and do extra polishing to get rid of those white spot, if that can be achieved then i probably doesn't need to paint it since i think top coat already did well to make the gunpla looks presentable instead of looking like a plastic toy
guess we can only trial and error  sweat.gif
will probably sacrifice some old gunpla for learning purpose, so far HG Turn A is the best victim, been aiding me to learn panel lining and testing diff coat and even the gold marker for me sweat.gif  sweat.gif
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you can't sand white spots, it depends how well you made your initial cut. also sanding it doesn't mean no marks left, sometimes you over sand the nub area until it's not even. to get 100% even surface is even harder than painting, coz the nub mark is usually harder than the surrounding areas, making it easy to end up uneven, & nub mark still there.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:10 PM)
Ok lets say if i want to achieve something similar to this, having the color appear to be at least 90% identical to the runners color and do it by spray would it be smooth like the sample above?  Is priming still necessary since i only apply about the same color tone to the surface?  (saw that danny choo blog where he spray a layer of paint directly to the runner before he even cut them and assemble it but isn't that exactly the same problem with ppl who end up with nubmarks here and there sweat.gif )

Actually to make it simple, i just want to paint the gunpla in their respective color (or identical) to hide marks, stratches and perhaps making the color more distinctive and sharper and wonder if it's achievable via spray can laugh.gif
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https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3531266/+540

pg28-30
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:25 PM)
but the example general_nic posted...
user posted image

into this...

user posted image

is it really very hard to achieve even if i have all the mentioned tools (the correct sanding grade and polishing compound
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that mainly the compound, but depends on color, darker the color, harder to restore the color from white, especially black.

SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ May 29 2015, 01:29 PM)
got mine 3M 3200 N95 with 25pcs filter for 65rmb exclude shipping cost, kinda low price if you do the math

tried it and most of the paint residue is filtered judging from the smell and filter color change.
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N95 is dust filter, doesn't filter the Vapours, like paint mist. more worth buying 7500 package set.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:28 PM)
what i did previously is nip it with nipper, trim with the knife, sand with 400 then 600 and finally 2000 but i didn't polish it with the compound, just the tamiya
polishing sheet (this is probably where things are done wrongly)

user posted image
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normally compound only after paint or top coat. because it's something like wax, you have to clean it real clean with soap water after use if you want to add more coats on it, you can still spray directly on it but not sure how sticky the coat will become.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ May 29 2015, 01:32 PM)
if it can be minimized to the point that it only have a fainted and very mild white which is not so noticeable compare to what i have now i would be pretty happy with the result, it might be able to flatten out with matte spray or at least make it visually not so noticeable
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no they won't. Clear Gloss will hide those white surface sand scratch marks, but it won't hide white nub marks for some reason i don't know why. very noticeable if it's dark color. FFS just touch it up with a quick brush stroke or panel lining pen, all you want is blend in the nub mark don't have to paint it thick.
SUSadvocado
post May 29 2015, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ May 29 2015, 01:36 PM)
you sand it from a 1-2mm thick nub, there will be no white traces

plus, the simplest way to remove white marks is rubbing it with your nails
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so far the only problem i have with the white marks are Black surface. the rest i can make the disappear with hobby knife & nails.
SUSadvocado
post May 30 2015, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ May 30 2015, 10:04 AM)
Well totally depends on ones range of involvement, if you spend 2 to 3 month per kit with hg or mg may be skip it.

Else if you do 1 kit per month with mg pg range, these tools save you tons of time for you to focus on painting.

Hence the tag for these tools usually proffessional grade.

Also I totally agree on overprice on god hand due to limited production and seller tends to goreng the price...
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but cutter will get blunt, connector will become lose after many use, then need to buy another one.

sand paper 2000 grit rm5 only.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 5 2015, 04:46 PM

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Anyone seen Kotobukiya D-Style Gunbuster in KL? I remember IT Toys has but long time ago. Lost the Gundam like Red Chin...

user posted image

btw i notice it's difficult to coat gloss over semi-gloss/matte coat, seems the result always can see the paint spray particles pattern.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 6 2015, 10:26 AM

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QUOTE(Terbulance @ Jun 5 2015, 11:23 PM)
What time did you go there? I went there yesterday night and it sold out. Monday only restock and I'm not staying in SG anymore sad.gif
Here you go smile.gif

user posted image

Char Zaku by Boon Liang Terng, on Flickr
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no one dress like Char (White suit pink tie rayban glass with cocktail glass) take picture there?
SUSadvocado
post Jun 7 2015, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 6 2015, 06:56 PM)
Hi, I saw this LED Unit for Gunpla at BTS, what kind of MG is it compatible with other than OO Gundam series?  Does Nu ver ka using the same LED Set too, Will it fit?

I just realise the Unicorn MG does not provide any space to slot in the LED unit sad.gif
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DIY LED under rm3 only. no need engineering degree or diploma.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 7 2015, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(jloi @ Jun 7 2015, 04:15 AM)
Don't really plan to get the RG Gundamdock due to higher price and also nothing unusual. I more interested on d 50SG ver.
I know right friend show me some SD kits photos and I saw it cost 14SGD where here can get for RM20-22
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Actually can, but old model Strike Freedom SD around rm28 @ Lit Tak Sungei Wang.

now SGD1 = MYR2.77

also i think SG & MYR distributor same, or the price controlled by HK side, unless you import from Japan side, will be Jusco price even in Singapore Shopping Centers.

This post has been edited by advocado: Jun 7 2015, 10:57 PM
SUSadvocado
post Jun 7 2015, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 6 2015, 07:38 PM)
yea i just check the list, Unicorn is not in list sad.gif
but an use on Nu and sazabi
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PG Corn + LED set rm1000 only at IT Toys, get it or regret it.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 8 2015, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 8 2015, 08:50 AM)
i mean the MG unicorn wasn't giving a slot to put the LED unit, as for PG, i still try to figure a way to put the LED (probably custom made) since i only want the eye to glow laugh.gif
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no slot, drill some slot, you only need space for a 3mm LED & 2 wires, resistor can actually fit behind the LED, you can choose to put the battery in the robot or use external battery & switch which saves space & also less hassle when changing battery, but will have 2 wires to the robot.

glowing is different from lighting up, to glow you need a capacitor in your circuit.

you can also add led to the boosters.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 8 2015, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 8 2015, 12:29 PM)
yea read some tutorial on that, wanna try but still figuring out where to hide the wire and the switch  sweat.gif
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if you using external battery switch can mount with battery holder.

if you using internal, mini switch, battery holder can fit inside the body or backpack, wires just drill 2 wires from neck to the body where the battery & switch are.

all the tools can be bought from ebay china sellers.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 12 2015, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(ealt @ Jun 10 2015, 03:04 PM)
Your advice please..should i buy with or without led kit..
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IT TOys at BJT has offer rm1k for PG Unicorn + LED set.
SUSadvocado
post Jun 12 2015, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 10 2015, 03:21 PM)
above or below 500??

btw sifu, how long to wait for topcoat to dry before working on things like decals and stickers?

does half a day sufficient, i previously wait one whole day before decaling and i wonder if it's necessary or a waste of time.
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Depends how thick you coat is, if mist coat less than 30 minutes can spray another layer, for thick coat need at least 24hrs. If you aren't sure get a hairdryer and blow it till you are sure. sometimes outside layer dry inside still wet, that caused by you spraying it too thick.

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