what i see is design complex robots will be RE to skimp on inner parts & save costs, while standard robots will continue to be MG for 1/100.
QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Mar 25 2015, 06:50 AM)
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
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Mar 25 2015, 10:15 AM
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#1
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it's unlikely they will release same robots in same scale but different grades.
what i see is design complex robots will be RE to skimp on inner parts & save costs, while standard robots will continue to be MG for 1/100. QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Mar 25 2015, 06:50 AM) |
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Mar 25 2015, 02:23 PM
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#2
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Mar 26 2015, 10:41 PM
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#3
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Modellers in Malaysia are not like Modellers in Japan, they all very low profile only show up when got competition.
They rare show their work online compared to HK/Japan/China modellers. QUOTE(xein @ Mar 26 2015, 10:20 PM) |
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Mar 30 2015, 08:56 PM
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#4
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JS hobby has decals at rm20 per set. Delivery is rm10 minimum.
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Mar 30 2015, 11:27 AM) |
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Apr 7 2015, 01:00 PM
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#5
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you waste so much paint when airbrushing.
for handpainting you need to sand them more to get rid of brush marks. QUOTE(amosai @ Apr 6 2015, 06:22 PM) You can, but it'll take a lot of effort and money like nazrul said. It really depends on the person's preference, skill and how many hours he is willing to spend on it. I've tried brush painting since last year till now, I am barely covering up the stroke lines LOL but it's a sense of pride when I do. I think you learn different things while you do full brush paint and airbrush painting. But efficiency (whether materials or time) wise, I think airbrush wins any day. @nazrul, YES, I would do that some day! It's a waste of time and money like you said but then again, I would be proud of my masterpiece when I do xD. |
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Apr 7 2015, 01:06 PM
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#6
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use bigger brush? and make sure your paint is mixed with right proportion. too thin you end up wiping the paint everytime u brush on leaving uncovered areas, too thick the paint won't stick also, with right mixture the strokes will go away when the paint fuse together, but still need to sand off uneven paints.
anyone used those wall painting rollers? i wonder if it will give out Cast Metal effect? QUOTE(cacin @ Apr 6 2015, 04:22 PM) This post has been edited by advocado: Apr 7 2015, 01:06 PM |
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Apr 9 2015, 11:13 AM
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#7
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Go JS Hobby they have lots of options. Buy their Mr.Hobby arcylic/lacquer & a big bottle of Mr.Hobby Thinner. Gaia Lacquer seems more worth the price for it's volume compared to 10ml bottles.
I use arcylic but never use water to thin because water is much thinner & takes longer time to dry, and might not melt the paint fully compared to Mr.Hobby Thinner. For thinning you have to test with brush so the paint is not too thin or thick. usually add 1 small scoop & try. problem with thinner is paint will become dry if you take too long time. Tamiya paints are usually lacquer based so need Tamiya specific thinner. Spray can got Lacquer & Arcylic based, also got Enamel & Polyurethane, all will melt acrylics but if you spray 2 coats of small mist far distance 1st (1-2secs), dry & full spray it should be ok. QUOTE(ThisIsBoletaria @ Apr 9 2015, 10:22 AM) Paint-related questions: 1. Where do you guys buy your paints? I'm looking at acrylics for hand-brusing and spray-can enamels for base paints. 2. Can craft acrylic paints that you can find in arts supply shops be used for painting gunpla? 3. I've read around and it seems that some acrylic paints will glob up if you try to thin them with water and some will thin just fine. Can the standard Tamiya paints that you can find in shops like Time Machine in Times Square be diluted with water? 4. What is the recommended ratio for thinning acrylic paints for hand-painting in Malaysia? 5. Is it safe to use spray-can top-coats on acrylic paint layers? |
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Apr 9 2015, 04:03 PM
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#8
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Apr 12 2015, 11:09 PM
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#9
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they still do, but easily removed.
key point is they aren't as sticky as normal masking tape so they less likely tear off paints you're masking. QUOTE(xein @ Apr 10 2015, 11:44 AM) |
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Apr 15 2015, 08:45 PM
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#10
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anyone using Gundam Marker GM01 Fine? they seems to dry up the moment you write it and impossible to rub off, only way is to scratch them off with hobby knife.
i read you're suppose to be able to use rubber eraser to wipe them off. but i feel they are ever harder to remove compare to normal paint. is this normal or is my marker old stock? |
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Apr 16 2015, 01:59 AM
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#11
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I tried on Lacquer Gloss Coat, seems it will dry up immediately, have to scratch it off but usually leaves a mess.
Then on painted surface, dries up immediately however easier to scratch off. On a spoon, still dries up pretty quick but can still use eraser to remove it. So you're saying Gundam Marker Oil are more for no-paint build? So for painted build other than enamel wash any good marker that can easily wipe clean? Last time i used Water Based Gundam Marker on Acrylic painted surface, they seems to be pretty wet & can easily use tissue paper to wipe clean, i switch to oil based because water base don't have fine tips. QUOTE(Chiaroscuro @ Apr 16 2015, 01:34 AM) |
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Apr 16 2015, 08:54 AM
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#12
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do you really need to gloss coat b4 the panel lines? previously i did use the water base on acrylic paint without coat but i have painted this kit for long time now plan to panel line it.
i read few options like Artist Oil, Artist Ink where you wash them but also heard washing without top coat will cause the excess get absorbed but i'm not sure it happens on all types of wash or enamel? i'm looking for an option where you can easily wipe off excess on acrylic painted kits without top coats. since it's white i wanna play safe. QUOTE(cacin @ Apr 16 2015, 07:52 AM) |
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Apr 16 2015, 01:57 PM
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#13
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right now i only have medium tip water marker, would be expensive to just order 1 real type marker.
anyone tried milder method like Water Color? Will it stain acrylic paint without top coats? QUOTE(cacin @ Apr 16 2015, 09:54 AM) |
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Apr 21 2015, 09:11 PM
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#14
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Is the UC novel exclusive Bazooka same as the Bazooka that comes with Sinanju MG?
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Apr 21 2015, 09:22 PM
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#15
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What about the Unicorn Gatling Gun that with the Magazine? Any Unicorn kits that came with the same gun?
QUOTE(General_Nic @ Apr 21 2015, 09:17 PM) there was a short period of time last year when Bandai reproduced the waterslides, sold out pretty fast you can always try China version or Samueldecals version you can never go wrong with RG's articulation, always superb though RGs are known to have fragile parts, just be careful http://dalong.net/review/rg/rg15/rg15_p.htm yes |
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May 6 2015, 12:50 PM
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#16
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1st time weathering. 95% unpainted. 95% weathered with Gundam Fine Oil Marker Brown/Grey/Black. Mr.DIY Clear coat. Total paint cost under rm10.
For messy work i think no need to repaint the base plastic. Took more than 20hours for this little bud. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() But i find hand painted acrylic paints doesn't stick well even after top coated. The pilot's hands keep getting paint scratched off by the hatch. I mix Mr.Hobby Acrylic with Mr.Hobby leveling thinner though. |
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May 11 2015, 11:12 AM
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#17
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95% handpainted, can see brush marks even after few layers of top coat. Older D-style are cheap with lots of uncovered areas compare to newer ones.
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May 13 2015, 11:28 AM
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#18
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Added LED, mostly unpainted, Future Floor finish using brush.
Future Floor hides most sand marks but for some reason some marks are noticeable even though the surface is smoothly sanded. Also any correction & recoat can see slight marks beneath the coat. But outcome better than normal Top coats. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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May 13 2015, 05:42 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(cacin @ May 13 2015, 05:20 PM) China LED, China wires, China Resistor, China mini 3 pin switch, Mr.DIY LR44 batteries x2. My soldering gun doesn't work well so i had to use superglue to compensate...i couldn't use battery holder since the body just manage to fit the 2 batteries + switch. change battery have to open the body but i cut short the connectors for easier removal. |
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May 13 2015, 08:17 PM
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#20
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i don't know about chrome but normal spray cans you need to:
1.Shake very well 2.Spray in hot sunny dry days (late morning - early afternoon best). 3.Put in warm bucket of water for 5 minutes 4.Spray at a distance minimum 30cm 5.Short Burst Spray not full throttle. 6.Wait for it to dry (5-10mins) & respray more layers. Best if you go ACE hardware buy that plastic spray can gun throttle around rm25. If you looking for cheap Flat finish Mr.DIY Clear #1 with mist spray works pretty well for rm5.90. But if you overspray it becomes uneven glossy. If you looking for cheap Glossy finish, Future Floor works wonders 1 bottle rm5x.00 can use very long time and can be brushed/cotton ragged. Anyway Lacquer & Enamel paint are more hazardous than Acrylic, you might wanna buy a 3M respirator & use plastic bag to wrap your hands, i assume you know the satay stick + blutac trick. BTW SILVER is different from CHROME, SILVER overspray less noticeable than Chrome. QUOTE(skeithskeith @ May 13 2015, 08:01 PM) Hi Guys, it has been awhile since I ask you sifus something. This post has been edited by advocado: May 13 2015, 08:18 PMI am beginning to take interest into spraying paint on my Gunpla, because of budget issue, I cannot afford MR Hobby / Tamiya Spray Paint, also because of my environment Airbrush is also out of question. I found a Malaysian Brand though, DPI Anchor Lacquer spray can, I am actually quite satisfy with the color, for this brand is ALOT cheaper than MR Hobby / Tamiya. However, I find the surface of the paint is quite rough comparing to MR Hobby / Tamiya spray paint. As in, you can actually spot the difference of the paints with naked eye. MR Hobby silver - more smooth and more natural on the plastic. DPI Anchor decorative chrome - You can actually see the unevenness with your eyes if you look closely. My question is, can I fix the smoothness or at least improve it? or this is an foundation issue caused by ingredients? Or is there any cheaper alternative spray can you would suggest? Short version: How to fix the rough surfaces of the DPI Anchor Spray Paint? Thanks in advance. |
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