



Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
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Jun 25 2015, 03:45 PM
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#81
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Gunbuster with DIY red chin since i lost the original part... had to use the extra crotch part which still bigger than original...
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Jun 26 2015, 11:28 AM
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#82
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Newer BB Gundams come with solid eye part or transparent?
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Jun 27 2015, 09:50 PM
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#83
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QUOTE(crispycreame @ Jun 26 2015, 08:20 PM) Wow really? Thats nice You better just keep quiet & hope the seller will do you a good favour, if you request them to do so they will tell you they are obliged by law to declare full value & as merchandise. Even if they do you a good favour, they will still include the full invoice in the package. Doesn't matter which online shop all Japanese Shops do that as required by law. |
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Jun 27 2015, 09:54 PM
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#84
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Jun 27 2015, 10:00 PM
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#85
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Jun 26 2015, 05:42 PM) true, my thai friend is one of them, collecting all those transparent ver which i really dont see the purpose... You know most of these transparent kits especially SD ones are not for sale, only given to shops who buy certain amount of stocks so they are quite rare, but shops usually don't sell them super expensive at least last time. some semi transparent kits are quite nice especially when you put them under lights. normally 1 shop only have 1-2 of these.at least from a builder point of view... |
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Jun 28 2015, 05:07 PM
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#86
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Jun 28 2015, 01:15 PM) Yeah can guide how to buy transparent empty water decals n print your own decals! Using Brush/Marker is only good when you're doing small areas, for big flat areas it's difficult not to leave trail marks with them. Best is use airbrush, or a cleam damp cloth and wipe with your fingers gently across, if you see trail marks just tap around the marks softly the marks will go away. but unless it's airbrush it won't be 100% clean & smooth, but not noticeable unless you look at it carefully under reflection.A but paint marker color adding and dip them into pledge floor care n you get mirror like glossy coat! It's all on YouTube too! |
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Jun 29 2015, 08:50 AM
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#87
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QUOTE(Godevil @ Jun 29 2015, 08:38 AM) Problem encountered: I used Gundam Marker, but the panel line is too thick for my liking (especially because my drawing speed is slow, the line got even thicker).... Is there other modelling marker pen that draw thinner line that you guys recommended? |
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Jun 29 2015, 09:28 AM
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#88
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Jun 30 2015, 12:44 PM
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#89
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Jun 30 2015, 12:27 PM) Yeah, as long as you ensure the ori parts surface has no major defect you're good to go, also you only want flat surface so the requirement for the surface is not so critical. any cheap way to prime? Mr.Hobby cans too expensive, bottle ones ain't cheap either.again spray can pre cautious has to be taken too, spray outdoor, remain 30cm distance light spray with many coats and do your spray work under hot sunny day, if its rainy or after rains stop your work. you dont have to worry bout too much for surface imperfections after spray, can also sand it with appropriate grade to get the surface you want and redo the spraying. hehe there are always dust and small bulu ended up on your kits so hatta do this anyway... the major use for priming is to observe and improve the painted surface, also improves the finish paint holding strength. you do know that matt top coat is not for your transparent parts right? i'm using Mr.DIY Clear for priming since i just want it to make the paint stick, but they aren't smooth like Mr.Hobby 1000 and need to be careful not to overspray since it's a top coat. Ace hardware sells some bigger cans of primer but still rm50 per can. Mr.Hobby cans are really small for the price they asking. |
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Jun 30 2015, 01:27 PM
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#90
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Jun 30 2015, 12:55 PM) cheapest would be air brushing in the long run, that way you can try a variety of other brands of prime paints. problem is i notice Clear & Prime paints tend to dry off once you open up faster than normal paints. No matter how tight you close the cap.can recommend much bout spray cans cheap options because it doesnt support most shipping and i have my own air brush kit. noticed this since day one so i bought air brush set. for example i bought: airbrush kit set for rm120 includes shipping and air filter with mini compressor and most paints only cost bout rm5 for 15ml with thinner for rm7.5 that can thin to ratio 1:4 which is 60ml also you can control the outflow so now worries of wasting paint. i have my sets of merely 3 or 4 spray cans cost. still you can always sand your way out using 1500 or 2000 sand paper if you want to... |
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Jul 3 2015, 12:50 PM
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#91
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Jul 9 2015, 10:40 PM
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#92
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Jul 9 2015, 10:43 PM
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#93
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is there any SD Sazabi prior No.382? not sengoku versions. looking for similar version to SD Nu Gundam No. 209.
don't like the angles of current Sazabi since Sazabi suppose to have curved all around the robot. |
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Jul 9 2015, 10:45 PM
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#94
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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 9 2015, 11:51 AM) I have a question regarding water decals why you put water decal after top coat? if you use matte coat water decal or normal sticker will stick less due to less smooth surface area.I notice somwtime it doesnt stick well even after uaing setter, and I notice theres a bit of dust (from topcoat) which might be the case. Is it advisable to rub it clean with a dam cloth before I put on decals? It only happen like 1 out of 20 decals |
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Jul 9 2015, 11:17 PM
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#95
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Jul 9 2015, 11:01 PM) Actually that's the whole point I sticking water decals, you will need rough surface plus softener for decals to hold through rough surface. From my experience works everytime. Smoother surfaces will fall of as time goes by unless you put another coat after decals. maybe water slide works differently but i know sticker you want maximum contact with the surface means you want it smooth. with rought surface your contact area might be only 80-90%, it provides grip when applying, but smooth surface should hold longer, 1 possibility is on smooth surface they tend to slide before dried and you adjust the decal too much until it loses it's adhesive.For now due to my laziness most decals were applied after finish coat none of them fell off. btw if you plan on top coating i don't see any reason to decal it after top coat if you are only top coating 1 time. decal it before top coat ensures the decal is sealed & also evens out the area more. |
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Jul 10 2015, 09:22 AM
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#96
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Jul 10 2015, 11:20 PM
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#97
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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 10 2015, 01:43 AM) Counter Attack.![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Seriously Bandai really sloppy with SD kits many parts have gaps & all the weapons only molded 1 side. Only the twin pack comes with extra transparent decals, original all shinny stickers... |
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Jul 12 2015, 09:42 PM
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#98
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QUOTE(ngcheechong @ Jul 12 2015, 03:45 PM) I personally gotten most of my gunpla from Gamers Arena and IT Toys, both in Berjaya Time Square, KL. Don't think IT toys stock model tools. Gamers Arena only stock those common items, for other tools, there was a hobby shop in Ampang 2nd floor, not sure still open business or not. If not have to go online like JS Hobby they are located in Johor Bahru.Cheers, |
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Jul 13 2015, 09:33 PM
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#99
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QUOTE(refnulf @ Jul 13 2015, 09:08 PM) Checking, thanks! the issue about JSHobby is their postage calculator is automatic, minimum rm10 for 1st 2 or 3kg, but i'm sure my orders not that heavy i add 1 more 10ml bottle jump from rm10 to rm15.Thanks, if I'm in that area I'll check it out. No, not particular. I've checked JSHobby and GWing. Nice stuff there. Also contacted tytroum, nice seller. Will get back to him soon. Thanks again! |
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Jul 13 2015, 09:37 PM
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#100
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QUOTE(SetsunaFSeiei Exia00 @ Jul 13 2015, 08:43 PM) All ACE hardware sells that plastic spray can gun throttle? Is there primer in can form? I don't use airbrush. I think they do, at the spray can section, but 100% sure Puchong IOI branch sells them.They sell primers in can form, i see mainly Grey Enamel primer rm3x, there's also a white specific For Plastic primer rm40++, but i think matte white/black can also act as primers, cheaper ones around rm15++. don't think i saw any Lacquer based primer. For top coat they have Lacquer (mainly for wood & metal), Enamel, Acrylic & also polysomething. Got Gloss/semi-Gloss/Matte/Frost, price range from rm4x to rm6x, but i think for the amount of paint per can it's cheaper than Mr.Hobby super expensive & small cans. They also sell some paints that claims to have Prime+top coat function where you don't need to prime the surface straight spray. |
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