maybe u can snap a pic of how broken the piece is?
maybe, just maybe someone around has extra parts that is suitable for the replacement...any good souls helping this guy?
well i doubt u can find the helps here..try zero g forum, usually got more parts trading there
u can get replacement from factory but u need to order from japan for the complete sprue set, its usually not cheap ordering parts like this
it sounds like u broke it..into half, still can save it i believe, need some fix skills..coz torso piece is not small , so the piece should still remain usable

Pic taken with phone camera. Scold me or whatever, just advise or help

Ahhh.. that sort of break dun look too bad. Nice flat area to work with without tricky corners. What you need is some superglue, putty, sandpaper, plastic sheets (the types used to wrap books) and paint.

cut a little strip of the plastic sheet, super glue it to the back of the torso piece to help hold it in place and to provide extra support behind it. I've not done a MG Freedom b4, so you will need to experiment a bit on the thickness of the plastic sheet, so it can still fit onto the internal frame nicely. Then, putty the outside surface along the cracks. Let the putty fully dry, then slowly sand away the excess. Start with rough sandpaper, then move onto the finest one, till you get a smooth surface. Next, apply a nice even coat of white paint over the entire torso piece.

fyire, thanx for the steps, really appreciate it. I'd need more info, like can it be any putty used, and where to go to find the paint cos I'd want the white paint to be of identical color to the white of the model. Additionally, what sandpaper type?

Also, to add more info, I already did try superglue the pieces back together, so there are remains of superglue on the broken edges.

Again, thanx for the help. I'd just want to replace that piece altogether, even if it'll cost me a few bucks. But if the fix suggested can make it look near brand new, I'd give it a shot (or pay to get it fixed ). Stupid, but I'm a sentimental guy, and this kit has sentimental values to me

This post has been edited by Odinn: Jan 25 2007, 12:47 AM

ouch..big crack...yea but i say u are lucky coz that kind of part still can fix like fyire suggested..dont rush man...go steady ~
the crack not very clear to me , it looks like a big seam line with my old eyes putty and paints is normally what i do
now good luck coz this is a good chance to learn fixing it, the adventure u learn cost more than money can buy , end up u will love the kit more
this kit has sentimentel value to you ? good..show us the work when you are done

This post has been edited by Dark Lynx: Jan 25 2007, 01:02 AM

Hmm.. putty, I'm not too familiar with the different types of putty, but those for doing up plastic models ought to be the right ones. For sandpaper, I guess u can start with a medium grain one then finish off with the finiest one you can find. Note that its real important to wait for the putty to fully dry before you start sanding here.

The remains of superglue, remove as much as you can with a sharp hobby knife before trying to put it back together again. The reason I had suggested that plastic strip is it provides extra strength, as it's kinda difficult to superglue together such a thin piece of plastic.

Finally for the paint, something else just came to mind. it might be easier if you're to use spray instead. It can be difficult to get the paint to look like the plastic ('cause properly painted parts always looks better than unpainted plastic). So what you can do is to get a can of Tamiya Flat White and spray all the white parts of the Freedom.

Sry wrong typo.... i know it is R-1 but somehow end up typing R-GUN lol...
with the head part given..do u guys think that it will soon be able to merge with R-2 and R-3 to form a larger SRX than the ori one?

I think that if he broke the piece into 2 and does not want to paint the thing, u might want to try using plastic cement which r sold in hobby shops to stick them back on.

Using those cement can leave a very thin dark line or even none, just sand it back down when the cement dries up.

If u used the putty u must paint the thing or else it will be very noticeable since most putty come in grey or white with a little grey in them (sometimes yellow). Another way to may a nice looking putty will be u sand all those white bone parts that u left after cutting the parts out into a small container (suggest u used metals one and no plastic container) and then add in the Mr Hobby Plastic Cement Deluxe (a stronger version), then u will have to mix these 2 things together to get something which looks like putty and put them on the crack part to cover it.

Provided that they have a R-2 Powered and a R-3 Powered of the same scale (1/144) to go with it...

Of course, Kotobukiya need to make more 1/100s to be good...

This post has been edited by kct-86: Jan 25 2007, 08:32 AM

i believe the upcoming R2 powered is 1/144 too...but being same scale doesn't mean it will be transformable
the SRX transformation is a mystery to me...coz i haven't seen them actually *combined* together with that funny head
btw anyone got huckebein 1/100? the price of SRW's 1/100 is damn expensive though...

http://dalong.net/review/mg/ml14/ml14_p.htm
What a waste of plastic

Maybe it's useful for those who want to paint their Freedom into custom colours?

I think one of the SRW games have a tansformation sequence of them, and they do make sense...although I got a feeling it will be tough (but not imposible) to replicate that in a 1/144-sized kit.

The R-1 will be the core, R-2 will be the main torso and the hands, and the R-3 will be the legs and stuff like that, if that is what I've seen. The head is actually 'tack-on', since it will be placed on the R-1's head. Try to find the Youtubes of it, it might be there.

About the Freedom Clear Ver. AF have some of them, price is close to MG Freedom.

This post has been edited by kct-86: Jan 25 2007, 10:41 AM

hmm.. only seen those clear armor pieces for PG models b4. Kinda a bit wasted on a MG where the internal frame does not have as much detail as a PG

it seems freedom is getting the RX-78-2 treatment. what next? freedom ver. ka? ver. 1.5? freedom rouge??

Can't agree more wif u...

Even 1 2 paint custom colours, can oso do wif the original MG Freedom.

So this totally wasting plastics n oso waste ur money hahaha

collecter's item ma...its ok. Forgivable since its the original Freedom

Thanx for the tip, really appreciate it. Thanx everyone who replied to my plea for help

Oh btw. forgot to add one more very important thing. Whatever method that you try to use (putty then spray, or making your own putty using scrap plastic and strong blue, make sure to test it out first on something else rather than the actual piece itself.

Practice first on another piece of plastic, then only do the Freedom's torso when you're confident enough.

The 100th master grade? It is the redesign of the original gundam for Gundam evolve Alpha.

the 100th MG should be Strike Noir i guess

don't think so, some other forums quote Strike Noir as the 97th....

I think 100th MS might be something more "special"... meaning another RX78, like the one waytodawn posted? OMG:X