Serious damage today...

TBH, the *ability* to shoot in low light at low shutter speeds thanks to OSS is actually also a curse if you shoot people. Unless they're standing still, anything below 1/60 (or 1/30 if youre lucky) will pretty much blur the people involved... which can be a royal pain when you actually don't want them to blur out.

In which case your only option is to increase the aperture width (not practical most of the time coz of the DOF becoming paper thin), increase ISO (which is the reason people get the A7s) or getting a flash (which comes with its own bag of snakes to tame).

If you're just shooting the scene/scenery itself or just like blurring people out for the fun of it like me it's a different story however... Though the SEL35 isn't the best focal length for scene shooting IMHO, the Sig19, SEL20, SEL16 and the superlative SEL24Z is much better for that.

The kitty is fine though, FL wise, but for snapshots it takes its sweet time to turn on and extend so you might miss your moment. Otherwise it's a pretty okay kitty, all things considered... especially considering the teeny weeny size. I'm just not a fan of the slow start up and the distortion (which sometimes results in slightly weird stretched out corners with lens correction applied).

And yes, lenses being almost comically huge on the tiny A6k is the reason why I'm sticking to primes for now. It's such a waste of its tiny body to stick a huge lens in front of it...

However, I wouldn't say the 1670Z is *that* big. You should see the A6k with the SEL16105G, the *old* SEL18200 or the even huger 70200G mounted on it lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 23 2014, 07:13 PM

Never really look at those formula. New thing learnt but I doubt I will every calculate it Just trial and error then soon I will know at what focal length, what shutter speed should I use to get sharp images or just preview each time after a shot (which is what we usually do ).

Flash... Another field to explore. Even the built-in flash... Don't even know how to control when I'm in Manual mode. Will explore it later.

The camera won't set it to F22 la coz that will be darker

Talking about OSS... Do I actually need to turn it off while doing long exposure? I have been doing it with that ON. Maybe I should try out someday and see the difference.

yeah can't agree more that the 1650 is a piece of gem. Also agree on the slow powering up part. Distortion wise still ok, not so visible for me.

I probably won't get another zoom lens other than the Kit Lens. Just legacy lenses and native prime lenses.


Also feel like doing macro but to make macro easier (for bugs that kind of thing), have to get a longer macro lens like 100mm or more. Sony hasn't got one lens for that though. Just the 30mm F3.5



Some photos for today but it's #throwback

1.

DSC01394 by CJSquare, on Flickr

2.

DSC01391 by CJSquare, on Flickr

3.

DSC01578 by CJSquare, on Flickr

4.

DSC01414 by CJSquare, on Flickr


For 4., don't ask me why I chopped off the ferris wheel. I only noticed it the other day~~

My favourite photo today!

Newbie reporting in!
Hello everyone!
I just get a Sony A57 from my bro last few days. Here's the photo I took today, hope you guys can give me some comment

1.
DSC08187 by ahkent96, on Flickr

2.
DSC08192 by ahkent96, on Flickr

3.
DSC08140 by ahkent96, on Flickr

Thanks in advance... ^^

This post has been edited by weikent: Dec 23 2014, 11:09 PM

Being honest,

1st photo ; if your subject is placed in more interesting perspective would make photo look different, i can see puddle of water and grass?

2nd photo ; not mistaken its misfocused.

3rd photo ; the color ran too greenish imho.

Side-self captured with Sony a7 under low light but pullback shadows and edit a little.

Technically not an Alpha family, but a distant relative.



RX100m3 with timelapse app, stretched to 30% speed. Best viewed in fullscreen 1080p

This post has been edited by lwliam: Dec 24 2014, 03:16 AM

Sony one utama xmas sales. Anything there?

Thank you. I will try to improve.

Some new spam in new thread!

asd-0679 by bdrc, on Flickr

asd-03492 by bdrc, on Flickr

asd-03589 by bdrc, on Flickr

Nice pic you got there. What lens were you using? F value?

1. good usage of reflection of subject...

2.i think the t-rex is abit OOF...care to upload the coloured version?

3.nothing much to comment...more like a snapshot to me...

we all been through the learning stage...dont give up ya bro....

of course i wont... =)
this is the coloured version
DSC08192 by ahkent96, on Flickr

This post has been edited by weikent: Dec 25 2014, 12:31 PM

why is it a curse? at least you GET TO SHOOT something, isn't it?

It's just not meant for moving subjects but at least you can now have a decently sharp scenery with motion trail on objects that are moving. The photo will have a different impact.

Merry Christmas everyone!

The first is with Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8
Second and third is with Sigma 30mm f/2.8 EX DN

Aperture is f11 for the first, and f2.8 for those that follows.
All taken with a6000.

This post has been edited by bdrc: Dec 25 2014, 04:07 PM

Ehem... "... a curse *IF* you shoot people... ... a royal pain when you *don't want* them to blur out..."

I meant that when you *intend* to get people in the scene all sharp lar...

Most people, especially when they start out, expect OSS to get EVERYTHING (moving people included) all sharp for them at low light... without considering the relationship between shutter speed and movement (and even AF, but that's nothing the OSS can help with already).

In short, OSS's 2-3 stop advantage is not a golden bullet. It helps, but there's more stuff to consider than that. It becomes a *curse* when you start thinking it is... or when you forget that it isn't.

Like I also said... if you want people to blur out or if you wanna get motion trails *on purpose* for artistic purposes or otherwise than its a different story lah...

Though I have found that the bottom end of hand holding *with* OSS (around 1/10-1/5 with the SEL35, depending on how shaky your hands are) is usually only sufficient to blur movement out by a little bit - which is again fine if that's what your intended effect is.

Well, IMHO anyway... TBH this actually holds true for most mechanical (and software) stabilisation systems as well, not just OSS.

Oh, and merry Christmas everyone.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 26 2014, 02:36 AM

shutter speed is too slow on this one (1/5), causing hand shake to happen

Oic...